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By Mitch13
2022 Coleman 400 with 13 hours on the engine and the mice got to it. Every wire coming out of the steering column in one cluster has been eaten through. I tried reconnecting matching wire colors to each other and I get the left turn signal and hazards to work, nothing else. If I play around a bit I can get the horn to honk or headlights to come on but only when I connect them to the brown wire. Obviously I don't know what I am doing here. Does anyone have a picture of how these wires are connected when they are under the hood on the drivers side coming from the steering column?
Gray - seems to carry power
Brown - left turn signal
Green with purple stripe - hazards?
Pink with red stripe - horn?
Green - head lights?
Yellow - head lights?
Yellow with red stripe?
Blue?
Dark green?
There is also a bundle hanging under the hood not connected to anything green with yellow strip, brown and blue?
Other than that issue, I am about ready to sell this for parts if you interested let me know.
Thanks
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By Sidewinder
All mid 2008 through 2014 Polaris RZR 800 series have a big problem with the rear differential pinion nut backing off, allowing the pinion gear to shoot into the rear differential, destroying the rear differential. This has happened with machines with as little as less than 100 miles on them! Reports indicate that there are no problems, nor warnings, until the rear differential grenades, locking the rear axles solid! This requires the machine to be lifted onto a trailer, to be transported for rear differential replacement, as it destroys the case. After failure, rear differential replacement can be quite expensive: labor alone can run from $800-$1200 and a new OEM Spicer rear diff, if you can find one, can run from $1700-$2500! So, if you own any Polaris RZR 800 series between the years of 2008-2014, I recommend that you do this repair before further use of your machine. personally, I have grounded my machine until it can be done. Please check the online post for your own awareness.
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By Jeff freeman
I have a Coleman 550. Was having problems to start with where it would start and then shut off after a couple tries. It would take off and be good. It then got to a point where it would not start at all. I replaced the fuel injection twice the second time I replaced it I noticed a mouse or something had chewed one of the wires that connect the electrical to the fuel injector. . So two-part question first does anybody have a part number for that wire harness? Second, any other ideas after I fix the wire harness permanently on what could keep it from starting I have gas flow up to the fuel injector.
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By Bigmountainrider
Hi Team,
I'm new to the Forum, and I'm looking for your help. I have a 2009 Yamaha Rhino 700 that has stopped consistently charging. Here are the specs and Info I can provide, the Stator and Regulator are new. The Stator does not have continuity to ground on all 3 wires at the engine bay plug. The stator puts out 15-17AC/V at Idle and 38-39AC/V at 2000rpm at both the engine bay plug and the regulator plug. The Battery regulator plug has Battery DC Voltage, when Running the regulator puts out Charging voltage 13.4-15V. I have upgraded/added ground wires from the primary battery to the engine block, from the stock ground wire bolt on the engine to the Chassis and from the secondary battery to the regulator grounding bolt/ground wire. Now the symptoms are it Charges when first started and will continue to charge while driving or at high idle until the machine returns to idle- it will not charge after that, this includes any RPM. If your shut the machine off and restart the process restarts -it will charge until returned to idle. The Machine has and RM Stator and Regulator and a Kimpex Flywheel. The last time it was driven it had an overheating event- unrelated to charging I think, but worth the mention.
Any thoughts would be helpful, I have the factory Regulator- it was working at the time of replacement- when swapped the same issues occur.
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By Robert301972
I just bought a 2012 can am commander xt Rotax 1000 4x4 EFI. It has 456 Hours on it and 6543 miles on it. From what I have read that is not a hole lot. It will start Right up run for about 5 or 10 sec then starts to stubble and then stalls. And ever time I start it It runs fine for the first 5 or 10 sec. I can Repeat the process for about 8 or 9 times and will will at least stay running. But it does not run fine until it is warmed up. Once it is up to operating temp it runs and drives fine. I have Replaced the fuel pump. Thinking that was the problem but no. I replace the map sensor It wouldn't even start with the new one in. So I put the old one back in and it started Right back up. I Think I had a bad map sensor. I will get a different one. It Is definitely a fuel problem. I just don't know what kind of problem. Here Is my thinking on all the sensors. (Crank sensor) all that does is send a single to the coils. That don't care if the motor is cold or warm. (Map sensor) all that does is measure the temp of the air.(Fuel Injectors) If they were bad it would not start at all. If they were clogged. It would run like shit if it was cold or warm. (Temp sensor) This is the only sensor that tells the computer weather the engine is cold or warm. So what is the temp sensor is telling the computer that the engine is warm. When I first start it. the computer will think that the engine is at operating temp. So It leans out the fuel mixture. So with a lean fuel mixture going into a cold engine. It Is going to stall. I have no scan tool to hook up to the computer. So Please help. I am at my wits End trying to figure this thing out.
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