Ignition switch not working
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By Flanman55
I have purchased a used Supermach700 (2008), It runs great after a new choke cable but. The temp sensor on the thermostat house is unhooked and can not find where it plugs back in. The fan has been un hooked from the sensor in the rad and cant figure out how it goes back together properly. The fan was wired to a by pass switch and i just always leave it on but would like to work it properly. I assume the sensor went bad and not changed.
any help would be great.
thanks
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By davebuckholts
I just picked this UTV up off of Marketplace. It needs batteries.
I am installing a single 48v lithium battery.
The on board charger, a NOCO Genius GX 4820, has a lithium mode.
Has anyone here used this charger on new lithium batteries? I want to be certain of the compatibility before hooking the charger to this expensive battery. **
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I got in touch with NOCO and they told me the charger is fine to use on a new LiFePo battery.
Nice charger. Many modes. New ones are running about $550.
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Jon Spruill
Hey Guys, I have been chasing a stalling condition for about two weeks now. The bike will crank up and idle fine, then after about 20 seconds it will fall on its face and stall. It happens at both idle and while running at various rpms. You can turn the key off, turn it back on and it will fire right back up without trouble. I have verified spark on both cylinders with a spark tester. I have also added an inline fuel filter, and pulled the injectors to verify proper pulse on each. Things I have replaced - (relearn procedure performed after each component replaced): spark plugs, ECU, relay/fuse box, fuel pump, & throttle position sensor - all with no improvement of the condition. The only warning light I get when the condition occurs is the oil lamp. The bike only has 14 miles. I am at a loss and appreciate any help and suggestions! Thanks
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By Some random dude
2015 Hisun 700 Utv
the break pedal seems to not fully throw therefore it won’t engage the switch in order to start.
it throws enough to stop the UTV but not enough to engage the switch.
I used it this morning, started fine, did some work then shut it off to talk to a neighbour and it wouldn’t start after. I can hear the injectors working but the break pedal doesn’t seem to go all the way down.
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