Well, after a bad experience with repairs to our Trooper, Lloyd tore into the engine himself. We originally wanted to save time by hiring the engine rebuild out, but that bit us square in the butt. Remember the discussion about Silverbullet motorsports in Yuma??
Stay tuned....we'll let you know what happens.
Has anyone rebuilt the engine in these troopers?
2007 610 mule will foul a pug after 1 hr of run time on clock. Plug will be black with sut. Buddy go a 610 and it does same thing. Have had dealer adjust valves twice and still does it. When i bought mule valves were ticking and I ran it that way for some time and took it in and dealer adjusted valves and that is when problem started. I rechecked valves and the were tight and I adjusted to .005 and still fouls plug. I always use no ethenal gas and have gone to a hotter plug. I have read that this is a common problem with mule. Any help appreciated.
Hi new to the Joyner trooper family just purchased a 2008 trooper, however the speedometer , coolant temp and voltmeter are not working I was hoping it was a continuity or ground issue but the copper is testing good, it appears the voltmeter is bad as my fluke works off the plug-in behind the gauge, tested the water temp sensor have 5 volts arriving, and approximately 3000 ohms on sensor cold no idea what I should get. As far as the speedometer have no idea how to test again copper seems to have good continuity. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dwight
I suspect I have a faulty temp sensor but at the cost of the sensor plus 50 percent tariff plus the shipping cost to Costa Rica, i would like to confirm it - the Hisun 800 has 2 sensors - one in the radiator appears to be a fully open or fully closed bi-metal contact switch similar to the old household thermostats for your heating system. - My fans turn on and off automatically as they should and a jumper across the connector also triggers the fan - appears to be a simple logic circuit back to the computer that then trips a relay for the fans. The second sensor is on the back cylinder almost hidden by the throttle body and idle control system - I have unplugged it, sprayed it with contact cleaner, checked the pins, tried to get a resistance reading across the sensor, reconnected it and still get a blinking red light on the display panel warning of high temperature - this occurs even when the buggy is still cold having just started it in the morning - I have not been able to trace out the other end of the cable on the display panel since it appears i will have to remove the entire front plastic to get to it - hoping i could confirm the resistance before i go to that step (this is the same buggy originally posted by Jim Magnuson last September when the spark arrestor overheated and burned the plastic pickup bed - I fixed that by removing and cleaning the spark arrestor and it has never glowed red again. I would really like to put a guage in place of the digital idiot light since (from experience in automobiles) by the time the idiot light goes on you have already damaged the engine - Which brings the second question - would it be advisable to swap the front radiator sensor for a real sensor and then jumper the fans to always on condition at the connector so the computer contentedly thinks everything is working and it is doing its job ?
Hey guys, just to give you a bit of back story here first. I used to ride big mud machines and SxS in the swamp. Went through a divorce and lost almost everything. What I got to keep was a snowmobile that I had for years and never rode anymore and wasn’t worth much to me so I decided to try trading it for more or less any UTV/SxS I could. Well that landed me here, I just traded it for a 2008 Kandi KD650 which is a direct clone of the Joyner Commando 650. The machine is in rough shape but runs and drives. I have a few things to repair on it. (Seized choke cable, seized Ignition, and needs a voltage regulator). Going to to princess auto today to pick up a choke cable, and ignition, I have a voltage regulator from an old project that I will wire in.
The only thing I am wondering about is the rear end. The guy I traded it for told me only one rear tire will spin when in 2 wd. Is that the way all of these are is do I need to rip it apart. Also is there any aftermarket support for rear axles or axles that will fit that can be cut down and sleeved and rewelded. Buddy there did some rednecking with a Polaris axle but not sure how strong it is.