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If you would like to have a technical post appear here, post a reference to it and I'll do the technical laugh.gif stuff to get it here. It won't be the whole article, just a reference to take you to the article. biggrin.gif

REGULATOR VACUUM LINE; http://www.utvboard....dpost__p__10695
MEASURING VALVE BACKLASH OR CLEARANCE; http://www.utvboard....dpost__p__10987
Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement, By Rocmoc; http://www.utvboard....ch__1#entry8454 - http://www.utvboard....ndpost__p__8454 - http://www.utvboard....ndpost__p__8505
Fixing your alternator regulator http://www.utvboard....dpost__p__13642
Removing MY engine and tranny so I can replace broken output shaft http://www.utvboard....ost__p__15261ft!
Tightening the heim joints http://www.utvboard....ndpost__p__7112
Replacing relays with P Channel Mos FETs http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2784-how-to-use-a-p-channel-fet-as-a-relay/page__view__findpost__p__15355

Replace A arm heim joints and ball joints http://www.utvboard.com/topic/2915-front-suspension-heim-joints-ball-joints-etc/

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  • 1 month later...
Guest Lenny

Analyizing Fuel Pump Problems

This procedure will take you step by step from the battery thru the relay and computer on to the pump while looking for problems. Two wires on the back of the pump relay, behind the seat on the Trooper, will have power when the key is turned on. There are 4 terminals on the relay. Two of them (#85 & #86, printed on relay by terminals) are for the coil that triggers the relay on. One of these two will have 12v+, the other goes to the computer. Check that one of these 2 terminals has 12v+ going to it. If not, trace it back to the battery, thru the fuse to find why the 12v+ isn't getting thru. Once you varify that you have the 12v and when the key is turned on, the computer grounds the wire from the relay completing the circuit to run the pump. But when you turn the key on and before the engine is started, the computer only runs it for a moment to prime it then it turns it back off. If you have a multimeter, tap this line from the computer that runs to either terminal #85 or #86 to see if it is grounding that wire momentarily when you turn the key on. If so, the computer is OK as far as the fuel pump operation goes. When you have one of the #85 or #86 terminals hooked to 12v and you ground the other side, the relay should click and with the multimeter you should get continunity between the other two terminals on the relay (#87 & #30)or if you have 12v hooked to either #87 or #30 and you activate the relay, the other terminal, either #87 or #30 should have 12v at it. If not the relay is bad or you are not getting 12v+ to one of the terminals #87 or # 30. If you don't have 12v on one of these terminals, trace it back to the battery, thru the fuse to find out why. If your getting the 12v and the relay is ok, then connect the relay back up as normal and check for 12v at the pump momentarily when you turn on the ignition. If you don't get 12v at the pump, you have a short or open circuit in the wiring to the pump from the relay. If you get power to the pump, the "-" terminal hooked to ground and the "+" terminal receiving 12v, and it doesn't run, the pump is bad. When you test the pump itself and your hooking 12v to it directly from a source, don't use a battery charger but instead run wires directly from the battery. If the pump does run but it isn't pumping fuel, then you may have a plugged fuel filter or maybe an air leak in the line. Of course, if your just out of fuel, then shame on you.


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  • 4 months later...

Differential Inspection

There is a way you can check your differential without pulling it out even though, if your having a diff problem, you will end up pulling it anyway. First you want to replace the oil drain plug with a 3/8" pipe plug. Remove the oil drain plug on the bottom. Drill the hole bigger with a 37/64 bit being careful to drill straight in and to not plung thru too far. Next, using a 3/8" pipe tap, tap the hole. Tap in just a few turns at a time and only one turn at a time when getting close while testing that the pipe plug doesn't screw in too far. You want it to screw in only about one turn deeper from being flush on the inside of the case. This makes the hole big enough to see up into the differential using a flashlight. Clean out the shavings as best you can using a piece of L shaped bent wire to hook the shavings out from around the inside of the hole. A few chips missed won't hurt anything as they are aluminum and soft enough to not hurt any gears. Now to check the workings, first jack up the rear end so both wheels are off the ground. Put the transmission into gear, make sure the differential is not locked. Now turn one rear wheel. The other wheel should turn the other direction. If you hear a bunch of crunching noise, you have a problem. If the other wheel doesn't turn, first look to see if the drive shaft is turning when turning one wheel. If it is, you may not be in gear. If you are in gear, and the drive shaft still turns, you may have a different problem. If the driveshaft doesn't turn, look thru the enlarged drain hole while turning one wheel to see if the ring gear is turning while the drive shaft isn't. If it is, the ring gear bolts are more then likely sheared off. If the ring gear is turning and the opposit wheel doesn't turn the other direction, then there is a problem in the spider gear assemble. If the ring gear turns and both wheels turn the same direction, then the differential is locked or something is keeping the spider gears form rotating like broken or jammed gears. If everything seems to be OK, using a screwdriver, see if you can make the ring gear wiggle around indicating that the ring gear bolts are loose. Also you should be able to see the ends of the ring gear bolts. The heads of the bolts are on the other side of the ring gear. Look to see if any of the bolts appear to be backing out while at the sametime rotating the gear to inspect for any broken teeth. If you found any steel chunks in the bottom of the diff, you have broken teeth or something else is broken. If the ring gear bolts stick thru the ring gear and have a hex nut on them, the differential has been upgraded and you shouldn't be having problems unless it wasn't done correctly. If you have your differential out anyway, change the drain plug to the 3/8 pipe plug for easy future inspection. I had a problem and this is what I did. In my case the differential was fine but through this inspection process, I was assured that everything was A-OK.


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  • 2 months later...

Adding an interposing Starter Relay.

Ok, lets see if we can make this easy. Just get a standard aproximately 1" cube 4 terminal automotive relay, they are real cheap and you can get it at any automotive parts store. The wire from the Troopers stock relay that goes to the starter should go to terminal 85 of the new relay. The terminals are numbered on the relay. Terminal 86 should go to ground. Run a heavier than stock wire, #16 gauge from the battery to terminal 87 on the new relay and the same gage wire from terminal 30 to the starter solenoid. You can mount the relay about any place you want.

Battery +12v to ---------------------------------terminal 87 of relay #16 wire

Old wire that went to solenoid----------------terminal 85 of relay #16 wire if extention is needed

Wire from engine ground to ------------------terminal 86 of relay #16 - #20 wire

Wire from terminal 30 of realy to ------------starter solenoid # 16 wire

Do not use 87

It is recommended by me that you solder the wires to the relay terminals to avoid the problems that have been created by the use of slip on connector in other areas.

Lenny with Edit by Kinarfi2979149760104282158dlphPX_th.jpg2622265600104282158Getfah_th.jpg


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  • 4 months later...
Guest Lenny

Adjusting the 4 wheel drive engager or the differential locker

Both the differential lockers and the 4 wheel drive engager use the same concept. To understand how to adjust them you need to know how they work. Picture 2 gears that are the same and place them flat side to flat side so they look like one gear that is twice as thick. For the lockers, lets say one gear is attached to the right output shaft of the differential and the other gear is attached to the left output shaft. For the 4 wheel engager, one gear would be connected to the front driveshaft and the other gear would be connected to the differential input shaft. It's easy to see that if these gears were welded together, both wheels on its respective differential would always turn together as one. Likewise if the gears were welded and the front drive shaft was turning, which is always does, the front differential would always be engaged. But the gears arn't welded together so to accomplish the the same thing, another gear which is a ring gear that has internal teeth and is sized to exactely fit over the 2 side by side gears is used This ring gear is aproximately about 7/16" to 1/2" wide. If nothing is holding the side by side gears so they have to turn together, they can spin freely allowing one gear to spin without the other gear turning. In this situation the lockers arn't engaged or if it is the 4 wheel drive gears, it's not in 4 wheel drive. In normal running the ring gear is slid onto only one of the side buy side gears and thus isn't holding them so they turn together. When engaged, the ring gear is slid so it is 1/2 of its width on one gear and 1/2 its width on the other gear now locking the 2 sied by side gears together as if they were one.

Here is the trick to get them adjusted correctly. For the lockers, you must watch the pin that comes out of the side of the differential as it moves. Have the wheels jacked up off the ground and the Trooper in gear and in 4 wheel drive if your adjusting the front. Watch the pin, which needs to be pulled out to engage the lockers, while a helper slowly pulls the locker lever on the dash down. Turn one wheel forward and backwards at the same time. Initially one wheel will turn one way and the other the other direction, but as the lever is pulled, at some point you will feel the two wheels connect together. Stop pulling the lever at this point and take note of exactly where the pin is. From that point fo fully engaged, the pin should move an additional aproximately 1/4". In other words, enough to move the ring gear 1/2 its width onto the second gesr. Move the wheels backward and forward while doing this so all tension comes off the pin while the lever is being moved. This will assure that everything is relaxed and any sticking in the cable has setttled out. If the cable is too sticky, you will have to fix that first or things will never work just right. Once it's fully engaged, then slowly raise the engagement lever to see exactly where it disengages. You want it to go a bit past this or more. If it doesn't go past it, there is a chance that it could hang up occasionally. Also if the ring gear doesn't get slid on far enough, it could pop in and out of engagement, this would be heard as a clunk. Check the pins movement 3 or 4 times so you are sure that the ring gear is fully disengaging or engaging by half of its width being slid onto the second gear. Don't rely on the movement of the engagement handle as you may find that it can engage when the handle is 3/4 of the way down but doesn't disengage until the handle is brought back to 1/4 of the way from the top. A sticky cable or springyness in the cable can cause you to mis-read the real pin movement. Remember the ring gear needs to be totally off, or on by aproximately 1/2 its width. Also keep in mind that if you pull the ring gear far enough it could go all the way off the first gear and all the way onto the second gear in which case it would no longer be engaged. The 4 wheel drive actuator is the same concept except that if you don't have a manual engager, It's harder to tell what it is doing. Have the front wheels off the ground to check the 4 wheel engager and have the frong differential locked. You can check the electric engager but you have to remove it and monitor its action to determine if its disengaging/engaging correctly. There are adjustable limit switches in the electric actuator but it's real wimpy and hard to deal with. An improperly adjusted engagement mechanism can cause differential damage.


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  • 1 month later...

Removing MY engine and tranny so I can replace broken output shaft!

I chose not to drain any fluids and remove radiator, engine and transmission as a whole, turned out quite simple, actually, and since I planned on doing some welding on some cracks in the frame, I

1. Turn the battery switch to OFF,

2. Disconnected and removed the computer,

3. Unhook all the wires, cables, fuel lines, clutch, throttle, hoses, etc. that go from engine, tranny or radiator to frame.

4. Remove radiator fan.

5. Remove the exhaust manifold.

6. Remove upper radiator support, remove lower radiator bolts.

Note, My rear drive line was already disconnected by a broken out put shaft, other wise, disconnect and/or remove rear drive line.

7. Remove 2 bolts holding the tranny in place.

8. Remove 3 bolts holding the motor mount to frame, under starter.

9. Make sure your lift, hoist, or what ever is connected and ready to lift and supporting some of the weight of the engine.

10. Remove the 6 bolts holding the engine to the engine mount under the oil filter.

Motor and tranny should lift out now, you will need to pull it loose from the front drive line.

Now that it's all out and on the table,

11. Remove the starter and the 4 bolts holding tranny to engine and separate.

Disassembling the Transmission

2245984510104110397XFcarz_th.jpg I saved parts from each step in a plastic bag, Make sure to get the balls out with the springs, read the writing on each photo.

Let me know if you think this needs corrections.


Instructions from Casey at JMC in the form of a .PDF file http://www.utvboard....h&attach_id=774

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  • 10 months later...
Guest Lenny

New wheel roller bearings still loose

dedub had send me a PM as follows.

"lenny when I tighten it the wheel is still lose there is no crouch the nut is tight hub is lose like it needs shim to squeeze it together . what is your in put. thanks dedub"

This question has come up a few times so I decided to post my reply to Dedub here so others could better understand what is going on.

What can happen is that the wheel hub bottoms out against the shoulder on the axel shaft before it actually finishes squeezing the bearing together properly. You can put a shim between the wheel hub and the bearing inner race with its id large enough to fit over the shoulder on the axel shaft. Another approach is to put a shim in between the two outer races but this only works if you have two separate bearings like I do. However I think your bearings use a common outer race with two separate inner races. On some of the bearings that were being supplied, even when the two inner races were squeezed tight together like in a vise for example, They were still loose. This is because they were made wrong and didn't allow for some preloading when installed. The only way to correct that situation is to grind the inner race, the edge that meets the other bearings inner race edge so that the bearings can come closer together to take up the clearance. This can be block sanded down by sliding the inner races inner edge on sandpaper placed on a flat surface. However this can only work if you know what you are doing and you measure it with a micrometer as you go to get it parallel. Casey at JMC is aware of the problem and has found a supplier that makes them correctly. You may choose to just have them replaced with ones that are correct. Remember this won't correct the problem is the hub is bottoming on the shoulder before squeezing the races together. When the bearings are correct you should be able to put them in a vise, and be able to turn the outer race, with a little tightness, while the inner races are being squeezed tightly together.


Add on by Jeff

The bearing clearance in the hub is such that with every thing perfectly installed, there can still be play in the wheel. To fix this, secure the bearing to the hub with Loctite 680 and let it cure for 24 Hr.

91458A122 Loctite 680 Retaining Compound, 0.34 oz 14.81
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