Quantcast
Jump to content


Winch installation...mounting holes ?


FRD

Recommended Posts

I have a 2006 Trans Mule, and a winch from Harbor Freight and the holes on the winch do not match up with the mounting holes on the Mule plate under the radiator? Are there certain winches or a universal mounting plate that will take any/all winches to mount onto a Mule ? Any ideas on where to get a plate that will help me mount the winch ?

Thanks...FRD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Travis
      Many people have issues with the kawasaki FJ400 engine  fouling out spark plugs, after  working on a  few FJ engines and 600 series Mule's with this issue,  i can say the fix for this issue is using a slightly hotter spark plug... the factory recommends a BPR6ES NGK plug.... the Number in NGK plugs represents its heat range and somewhat odd, the lower the number the hotter the plug, at least as far as NGK is concerned. If you have  a Mule fouling spark plugs try installing a NGK BPR4ES spark plug.
      FROM NGK
      A hotter heat range spark plug has an insulator design with a longer heat flow path to the metal shell of the plug. As a result, more heat stays in the ceramic firing end and less is dissipated to the engine. A colder heat range spark plug has an insulator design with a shorter heat flow path to the metal shell of the plug. As a result, less heat stays in the ceramic firing end and more is dissipated to the engine. For a spark plug to function properly, it must have a tip temperature high enough to burn off carbon deposits (self-cleaning) and avoid fouling, while remaining low enough to avoid overheating the ceramic firing end and pre-ignition.
    • By great8redsfan
      Okay folks. I have a low power issue. Been like this for a few years. Place I work at bought 3 and all have lost most of the pulling power.  They gave them away after local shop worked on one for 3 months and it had great power for about 1 month and then crap. They replaced throttle body, fuel injector, spark plug and IAC motor. Seat belt switches have wires cut and left open so no seat belt warning light anymore. It revs to 6k rpm in neutral but when put in gear and take off in low it just doesn’t seem to want to go anymore. Running 93 octane fuel with Stabil.  Any ideas greatly appreciated. I dont have a scan tool but no codes on dash. If held to floor it pops a little and runs almost 5K rpm but if I let off pedal about an inch it smoothed out and revs up to 6k rpm. 
    • By hdtran
      It's not immediately obvious to me how to wire a remote control (wired or wireless) on the Sector E1.
      Has anyone here done this? Do you have pictures on how to get to the wiring?
      Thanks!
    • By Travis
      View File Kawasaki Mule 550,520,500 Complete service manual
      This is a complete service manual for the Kawasaki Mule 500,520 and 550 models.
      Topics  covered include Brakes, Steering, Electrical system, suspension and fuel system. As well as engine repair procedures and Transmission/Final Drive procedures.
       
      ********************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************
      If you need more information about the engine this manual linked below is chock full of information.
      Thanks goes to @cliffyk for getting these files all  into one PDF format for uploading.
      Submitter Travis Submitted 04/18/2021 Category Kawasaki  
    • By moonrover
      Mine is overheated/burned/melt at connection with its wire connector, parts are ordered to replace both them.  This seems to be a common issue, and some of you already replaced it. I right now just connect the wires, so the fan runs  all the time whenever the initiation is on, but it's better let fan runs as needed with a working temperature sensor/switch. 
      Question: Does some coolant come out by removing the switch/sensor from radiator?  Or, is the threaded hole all the way inside radiator?   If the answer is yes,  I want to drain or extract  some coolant to make its level below the sensor before replacing it, so I don't make a mess with coolant spilled out 
      Thank you.  
×
×
  • Create New...