Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Lenny - From what I have read we have 3 relays in the fuse box and they are fuel pump, fan and engine. Not sure which relay that starter solenoid wire would go to. Should I just change out all the relays and if so can I just match them up at an auto parts store. I could do that or what I am thinking about doing is running a wire directly from the starter ignition switch to the new relay 85 and just leaving it at that. The old starter wire going to the relay behind the seat would then be dead which is fine. Whatever relay it is going to now must be working because everything else seems fine. Fan, fuel pump, efi, etc. What route should I go with. New wire or try new relay?

  • Replies 37
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

I had forgotten that there was only 3 relays. I suspose it's possible that the wire from the ignition switch went direectly to the starter solenoid and not thru a relay. Maybe Kinarfi can chime in with that information. I would not fight it and just go with a new wire.

Lenny

Posted

Perfect. I will give it a try tonight and let you know. Thanks for all of your input Lenny, I am crossing my fingers that does the trick and I have NO more questions.

Posted

Good news now. It fired up after wiring direct to relay from switch. Must have been something in between with that solenoid wire. Either way I learned quite a bit on electrical with all of your help Lenny, Kinarfi and Charlie. At least I know that I have a relay installed now so that eliminates some of the possible starting problems. I had run two wires though the tunnel from the front to the back just in case I ever needed them. I have a T4 so I have to remove the cowling down the middle and there are a number of screws on that one. So, to save time I put in two extra wires. Now down to just one but all is good. Just have to put everything back together and tidy up the wiring. THANKS AGAIN GUYS. Hope this thread helps someone else down the road.

Posted

When I rewired my Trooper, I ran a piece of PVC pipe from the front to the rear. It's easy to bend into a curve where needed by heating it with a heat gun, or torch for that matter if your careful. I now can pull wires thru whenever I need to very easily.

Lenny

Posted

When I rewired my Trooper, I ran a piece of PVC pipe from the front to the rear. It's easy to bend into a curve where needed by heating it with a heat gun, or torch for that matter if your careful. I now can pull wires thru whenever I need to very easily.

Lenny

bruhaw,

you must have forgot but thats what i told i did when i ran the wires for the fuel controller up to the dash.

Posted

hey guys

bruha glad to here you got the trooper going I did as well. Found that I had a partially brocken wire at the starter and poor contact on the solinoid side took care of that and she fires right up now, starter are 174 from silverbullet motorsports and when they said they usually dont sell many I triple checked everything thank god lol.

Posted

Had that problem, put an interposing relay in. That is take a small relay, (10 to 20 amp), and pull the wire that activates the solenoid and use it to activate the relay. Then use some #14 wire that goes from the battery side of the starter to the relay and then to the solenoid where the starter wire was. The problem seems to be that the wire used to activate the solenoid is too small and too long to supply enough current to get the solenoid to slam in hard enough to make good contact for the starter motor. I haven't had a problems with this since I added the relay and it used to happen all the time, I got to a point that I always stopped on a hill.

Kinarfi

Finally remembered to take some photos, Doctored them up by adding notes and arrows, I lied about the size of the wire I used, looks like I actually only used #16 awg stranded THHN.

2654332370104282158xnoxxT_th.jpg 2079520100104282158yipObY_th.jpg 2426533570104282158MNySvy_th.jpg 2415380890104282158MmtLbd_th.jpg 2890717110104282158ROZIfe_th.jpg 2584334480104282158EIQQhC_th.jpg 2174027780104282158McRlUq_th.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Skeeter22
      I going from a Yama Rhino and bought a 2026 Ranger 1000XP. I was riding and lost all steering. The steering wheel just spins freely. I have one other video of this happing but has anyone else experienced this.
    • By Cliffampranch
      Hi All,
      I have a 14 mile round trip on level roads to reach the property where I work with my 2025 Amp Crew Ranch (purchased, April 2026).  That 14 mile round trip uses 60% of the battery as shown on the gage for a calculated range of 23.3 miles versus an advertised “up to 50 miles” range.  A mile or two working on the property gets me a flashing gage and warning beeping by the time I get home.  The dealer was good to work with and even with a new battery (yesterday) the results were about the same, although there seemed to be more power and a higher top speed.  I own a Mach-e Mustang so I am familiar with how various conditions affect range, but less than 50% of advertised range just seems like there has to be something out of whack.
      Now I’m wondering if there is a controller and/or software issue affecting the range and performance.  At various points the Amp seems to lose power for no reason and then has trouble maintaining speed.  Any ideas?
      Also, twice now, the brakes seem to have not released fully.  After noticing reduced speed, I stopped and check the rotors and wheel…..HOT!  So, now every time I feel less power, I stopped to cycle the brakes and check the temperature.  Very annoying.  Are there any adjustments to be had?
      And yes, as noted in another post, sometimes the switching from forward to reverse or high to low speed feels sluggish or balky.
      Lastly, while an electric vehicle powertrain is quiet, my Amp was horrible from a road noise and vibration standpoint.  This was easily fixed by locating panels vibrating on other panels or the frame (even the cup holders were vibrating) and installing felt adhesive pads at the contact points (seat to frame, windshield to frame, fenders to frame, etc.).  This is a $10 and 1/2 hour fix that makes a significant improvement in the driver/passenger experience.  Tire noise, yes, but that’s because of the knobby tread.
      I’m trying hard to like my Amp and would appreciate any tips, advice or solutions.
    • By mfitzner
      Cranks after installing a jumper wire to ignition switch to get power but will not start
      Have spark and fuel pump runs
       
    • By Jeff freeman
      I have a Coleman 550.  Was having problems to start with where it would start and then shut off after a couple tries. It would take off and be good. It then got to a point where it would not start at all. I replaced the fuel injection twice the second time I replaced it I noticed a mouse or something had chewed one of the wires that connect the electrical to the fuel injector. . So two-part question first does anybody have a part number for that wire harness?  Second, any other ideas after I fix the wire harness permanently on what could keep it from starting I have gas flow up to the fuel injector.


    • By JohnnyB
      My Massimo 500 will not start. I’ve checked all the obvious things. It turns over just fine. fuel, spark, fuse box are all good. I can’t figure it out. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
×
×
  • Create New...