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Front Drive Line


Kinarfi
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It's been quite a while since I had to pull my front drive line and I don't remember if it has a snap ring or what! Any way, it's not sliding off by hand and I'm not sure if I just need to pry it or what. Anyone know what it takes to get it to separate from the transmission, I have the carrier bearing loose and the forward half out already.

Last time out, it started making a metalic popping noise from time time and it looks like I may have a problem with the U joint nearest the tranny.

Haven't been able to find any thing in any of the manuals yet either.

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Another thought about front drive lines, I know Lenny changed his to a single piece, but he said he had to move the engine back or diff forward to put it in. I'm wondering if it would be possible to put a CV set up similar do the axles and do away with that carrier bearing, and then if I do that, I'll probably probably do it with a heavier gauge aluminum pipe of a larger diameter so I can put electro or permanent magnets close to it to create drag when going down hill, but that's probably cost prohibitive, goto http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eddy_current_brake if you want more info on what I have in mind.

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I was having trouble getting the drive line to slide all the way out after I finally got it sliding, the carrier bearing bracket was hitting the frame, so I had to remove the bracket from around the carrier bearing rubber mount, a bit of a pain, but necessary, I suggest some form of lubrication such as windex or denatured alcohol. After I got it out, I found that the yoke closest to the tranny was bad and the bearing could be spun in the yoke. A local drive line specialist said to tack weld the bearing and put a zerk in the bearing, pump it full of grease and run it until it fails. I did a bit more than a tack.

Please take a look at this photo and see if I have the U joints of the two pieces aligned properly. https://drive.google.com/?authuser=0#folders/0ByQAhs0e-yF9NEg1c1IwMlR0djA

Here's the rest of the associated photos,

https://drive.google.com/?authuser=0#folders/0ByQAhs0e-yF9NEg1c1IwMlR0djA

Thanks,

Kinarfi

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Jeff, I don't have my Trooper at my house to tell you if you driveline is aligned properly or not. Have you figured it out?

Now that you have had it out how much weightsavings would you guess it would be to do a one piece driveshaft? I am on a mission this winter to shed some pounds.

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Jeff, I don't have my Trooper at my house to tell you if you driveline is aligned properly or not. Have you figured it out?

Now that you have had it out how much weightsavings would you guess it would be to do a one piece driveshaft? I am on a mission this winter to shed some pounds.

I would guess that the loss of carrier bearing(5lb) and the bracket that holds it (2 lb) and the center U joint vs the tube all and all 10 lb +-

alignment doesn't matter now that it's in, but I think it's correct.

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Jeff, I don't have my Trooper at my house to tell you if you driveline is aligned properly or not. Have you figured it out?

Now that you have had it out how much weightsavings would you guess it would be to do a one piece driveshaft? I am on a mission this winter to shed some pounds.

If you do it right, you can save about 25 pounds. I did. alignment will be important with a one piece drive shaft without any u joints what so ever. Alignment is easy.

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Lenny, here's one to ponder upon, is it possible to use standard CVs like we have in the axles or rear drive and have an aluminum drive shaft between them, I think an 1/8" wall and 6 to 8" diameter drive line tube would meet my ulterior motive here. Ulterior motive you ask, have a large enough diameter drive line to use with eddy current braking, larger sheds heat better, has more leverage, has more speed so magnetic eddy current braking is more effective, I know eddy current braking will work with non ferrous metals, I think it would have to work with ferrous metals, they use it on locomotives and the tracks, but I don't know.

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Lenny, here's one to ponder upon, is it possible to use standard CVs like we have in the axles or rear drive and have an aluminum drive shaft between them, I think an 1/8" wall and 6 to 8" diameter drive line tube would meet my ulterior motive here. Ulterior motive you ask, have a large enough diameter drive line to use with eddy current braking, larger sheds heat better, has more leverage, has more speed so magnetic eddy current braking is more effective, I know eddy current braking will work with non ferrous metals, I think it would have to work with ferrous metals, they use it on locomotives and the tracks, but I don't know.

You don't need any u-joints or cv's if you align the trans output with the front diff input. Might be hard to get 6" or 8" in the available space.

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