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clutch fork removal


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  • 2 weeks later...

You have to make a tool to remove the bushing and pound out of the transmission housing after removing the seal. The kit is $60 or so from JMC and it comes with both bushings, new seal, throwout bearing as well. I was going to beef up the fork as well but consodering the time and effort to remove bushing and then weld a gusset on a fork that is already heat treated I decided against it. I got a heavier duty pressure plate which is probably 30% stronger clamping force than stock and it is probably just fine with the oe fork. I will post what I found out on my clutch problems under the topic clutch problems later. You will find it to be very interesting and costly I might add.

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  1. Ok thanks didn't know they made a kit kinda figured the only way was to remove bushing but it was gonna be a pain I wrapped the top and bottom of shaft in wet rags as well as input shaft and welded gusset in everything seems fine time will tell ... thanks again

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Only issue now is that the fork isn't heat treated. Should be OK but I didn't do because of the fact that I wanted to heat treat after welding gusset. This is a diaphragm clutch so that fork really doesn't have to push that hard so either way I think we are both safe with it. Not sure if Lenny heat treated his after welding or not. He told me the other day to take a file to it and see if it made a mark while filing on it and it did not which means our forks are heat treated. Talked with Casey at JMC and he says the transmissions are actually pretty stout and built in government factories unlike the exploding out of tolerance differentials we have. Lenny's kit takes care of those and makes them a nice unit when finished shimming, etc.

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