2009 Trooper front diff (need parts)
Since I’ve got about 7.5k mostly off-road miles on the old T4, the steering rack is pretty sloppy!
Installed a new one pretty easily though…
Had to use a new steering u-joint since the spline on the Joyner rack is a bit smaller/metric.
Used Latest Rage part number AC425152
and a 5/8”- 36 spline - 3/4 double D shaft.
Hopefully someone out there is a T-Boss 410 electrics expert or a Massimo mechanic is viewing this. I parked my 410 and it was working great. I came back a week later and attempted to crank it and nothing. Turned the key and no power. Figured it was a bad/low battery so I charged it. Still nothing. Attempted to jump start it and still nothing. Usually when I put the key in and turn it to the first position, the display comes on and I hear the ECU and other items boot. Now it is doing nothing.
I slowly went through the electrical system and found the main fuse attached to the starter relay, part 71602 (pic 1) blown. I figured replacing this fuse would fix my problem. It didn't. I then ordered a new starter relay thinking maybe that part had gone bad and caused the fuse to blow, but a new relay did not fix the problem.
I have found a work around for starting the machine. If I take one of the purple/black leads (pic 2) and insert one of them in the bottom right of the starter relay (pic 1 and 3) then the machine will get power even with the key in the off position. I'm bypassing something but don't know what. I can use my right hand to hold the wire against the lower right of the starter relay, reach over and hold the brake with my foot, then take my left hand and turn the key and it will crank. As soon as I remove the wire from the relay the machine shuts down. I have even removed the power distributor box and it will still get power when I touch the wire to the relay. Of course this is not the way it should work but if I can't solve this problem somehow I may just have to rig a connector to the relay and bypass whatever is causing the electrical issue. Massimo has told me the purple/black wires on my model are not used.
Any help in figuring what my problem may be or other items I can try?
I had mentioned in a previous post that I had removed the front anti-roll bar from my 2020 Outfitter 400; I ran that way for a month or so without noticing any downside however recently I installed a 'suicide knob" (see below) to assist my Parkinson's disease affected arms in turning the beast--but after doing so i found that in the quicker, tighter turns the knob permitted the vehicle would nosedive a bit, dig in, and plow on hard surfaces--not scary, but quite noticeably.
So I put the bar back on. Then today I got about 1-1/2 miles down the main road on the nearby power lines, turned around and came home to take it off--with the bar on, at 25 to 30 MPH, the front-end of the beast jumped like rabbit at each bump in either wheel rut., for a nearly brutal and quite uncomfortable ride. the bar (20 mm solid steel) is far too robust for the weight of the vehicle. The front bar on my 3900 lb. Infinity M37 is 30 mm...
suicide knob--for you younger folks:
Wondering if anyone has ever converted a manual transmission to automatic in a Joyner Trooper T2? Looking to give to my daughter and she is unable to drive a manual medically. Thanks :- )
Pretty new to the whole UTV thing and my outfitter 550 has around 35 hours so I figured it’s time to do an oil/filter change and grease the zerks….but then was wondering if I should also drain and replace the front/rear differential fluids? I don’t see anything in the outfitter manual mentioning differentials and I can’t find any videos or instructions online if this is something I should be doing and if so at what intervals? If anyone has any videos showing where to even find the differentials on this name/model I’d be greatly appreciative.
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