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Jacksnife

New (used and abused) 2008 Joyner Trooper T4

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I got it for my wife who is abusing our golf cart on the lake trails. So I don't expect to take it rock climbing or anything like that. But she does like taking her girlfriends out romping through the woods and so far she loves it!!

I knew when I bought this thing it wasn't kept care of... it was smoking and was very hard to start. It also has massive blowby. The previous owner ran it without an air filter. o.O

I was expecting rings and valve guides, nbd. I was actually hoping to do lower bearings/rings with the block still mounted in the frame. But unfortunately one cylinder is at 30psi :( Hopefully it didn't damage the cylinder walls what ever it is.

My question is; while I'm searching for replacement parts, should I just stick with Chery stuff? I'm thinking if I only need a rebuild kit, to stick with Chery. But, if I need to start replacing valves, pistons, etc... should I be looking at the Ford CVH 1.1L for parts? In fact, can I take it to a machine shop and tell them it's an old Ford CVH?

Thanks for any feedback...

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I wouldnt be worried about using chery parts...the engine in the trooper is very well put together..most common problems arise from not changing poor original air filters...or force feeding them with excessive boost with poor fuel control...Hardy

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Thanks Hardy, I'm hoping it's just rings and valve guides. but with 30psi in one cylinder I'm expecting something more drastic. I'll keep this thread going with updates. I have seen a couple other threads with engine rebuilds, but can't access the pictures. It appears the hosting server can't find them or something. I wondering if it's possible to hone/re-ring with the block while it's still in the frame.

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myself,I would count on pulling the engine out...its not that bad once you get at it..then you can do a proper job of checking,cleaning,sealing etc...Hardy

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I agree will pulling the motor, don't let the shop that you take the head to adjust the valve by grinding on the stems, knuckle down and get the shims, some can be had at Honda, some can be belt sanded, I did it, but don't recommend it, some may be able to be adjusted by adding thin shims under main shim, that how I think some have done it, but not sure. I hope some one here can give more advise about how to adjust the valves.

I had my whole engine apart and photos of it, but the photo web site shut down,

Your 30 pound cylinder is probably an open valve, don't panic until you actually look at the cylinder walls, I had over a 1/4 inch end gap on my rings, If you open the tranny up get a 3rd gear synchro if you're grinding going into 3rd, I think I have a doc in the parts and pieces thread

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Thanks guys!

Ok, I'll yank the engine. I've read two engine pull posts, one keeping the tranny in, one pulling it with the motor. I would prefer to leave the tranny in the frame... I have a bad habit of taking things too far so I need to pick a stopping point and stick to it. I'm rebuilding this so my wife can tool around the lake in place a golf cart can't go. Nothing strenuous. I can tell you she loves it though and can't wait for me to fix it.

It's got 1000 miles and 6000 hours (huh?) What kind of usage is that!? That's a lot of 6 mph craziness lol. Ooops! Never mind I read that wrong... ~600.0 miles 1000 kilometers : )

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Ok, I started reading the manual about the head and valve adjustments, and am wondering if there is a place that specializes in rebuilding these? It might be worth the piece of mind to send it off.

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What ever you do, take lots of photos before you take things apart so you can refer back to them later as you put it back together, especially the wiring parts and how the harnesses are routed,

there aren't that many bolts holding the engine to the tranny, just don't forget the plate at the bottom of the clutch housing, I would suggest leave the tranny in

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Ok it's out and on a stand. Got it tore down to a long block. I'm not experienced with overhead cams at all (first one) so I'm a little apprehensive about the next steps. This motor only has 600 miles on it and it looks great! Even the clutch hasn't been worn enough to make it past the rough spots. The cam is just starting to get a little shine on the lobes. So I plan to put it back together exactly the way it came apart. Why would I need new shims?

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Pulled the head and everything looks surprisingly good. No scoring in any cylinder, no obvious damage to any valve. The pistons are flopping around like there were no rings on them at all... but that's about it. There is also a grey sludge in the oil pan. It feels like wheel bearing grease but looks like graphite. interesting.

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the reason behind shimming/reshimming valves is that with poor air filters ,the dirt and dust grinds away at the valve and seat sometimes causing it to wear and "stay open" with the stock shims,symtoms are normally rough running at idle,blowby and poor compression...often checking clearences and installing thinner shims will allow valve to close...I would have checked more before disassembly ,but,if oil pressure was good and there are no damaged pistons (check ringlands also) and no cylinder damage,myself I would re ring,reassemble and check/adjust valves...Hardy

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I let gas sit in the combustion chambers over night and one did leak out. So I'll be taking it in for a valve job. Should I take the shims with me or is this something I need to do myself?

Bad news is I tripped carrying the shims and got them out of order... I was too careful I guess lol! damn! I'm not too worried about it though. There is hardly any sign of them being used. I think a quick polish and it wont be any different than putting a new spacer in.

btw, how do you get the spacers out? The manual says screwdriver but it wont budge... they rotate fine, but refuse to dislodge (or disintegrate like the manual says, lol!)

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I remember using a flat magnet and some small channellocks to lift the the shim pucks out of there pocket, it was about 1/8 inch thick and 1 X 2" and it was a Neodymium magnet.

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and which grit hone with the OEM replacement rings? : ) I think I have 280 and 600 grit, but if I remember right I used the 600 grit on moly rings (or was it chrome?)

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I got the shims out with compressed air... popped'em right out. I can see how a dental pick would have also worked, but a screwdriver was hopeless. Now that the oil is out of them they fall right out so i'll have a better time getting them back in the right places.

.228 x3

.230 x3

.232 x2

.252 x2

.254 x2

.256 x3

.260 x1

I'm impressed! I was expecting them to all be the same.

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To me this head looks great cleaned up... and considering it only has 600 miles on it, I'm going to lap the leaky cylinder and put in new seals. If I do run across a bad valve guide then i'll get it replaced by a pro.

gallery_2486_142_142626.jpg

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decided to start working on the valves starting with the leaky cylinder. Before and after (exhaust valve) I did the intake but forgot to take before pics. Looks like my grinding compound might be a little rough by looking at the intake.

gallery_2486_142_51116.jpg

gallery_2486_142_72756.jpg

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I let gas sit in the combustion chambers over night and one did leak out. So I'll be taking it in for a valve job. Should I take the shims with me or is this something I need to do myself?

Bad news is I tripped carrying the shims and got them out of order... I was too careful I guess lol! damn! I'm not too worried about it though. There is hardly any sign of them being used. I think a quick polish and it wont be any different than putting a new spacer in.

btw, how do you get the spacers out? The manual says screwdriver but it wont budge... they rotate fine, but refuse to dislodge (or disintegrate like the manual says, lol!)

The alternative that I saw, used by the people that did my valve job is to position the head and fill the back with water or oil and see if it leaks into the cylinder head.

If you disassemble the head, would post a photo of the valve pushing mechanism, please?

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