Steering upgrade

[bigdan120]

Well guys my first system started failing and I needed to figure out why. So I started pulling it apart to check it out. My computer box that I sealed up had either leaked some water in or it just corroded because it was sealed tight and the heat it produces might have caused an issue. Either way I could have put a new computer in it for about 150.00.. UK model I used from a Corsa b. But I did some research and found that my guy is making a control unit for an American electric steering unit. So with his kit and a complete volume the rebuild of my steering is underway. This style is an easier one to install less brackets. With this unit being more compact I am going to keep the box unsealed and up in the dash area. Also these are alot cheaper then shipping from UK and are readily available. I paid 75.00 for a complete unit and another 70.00 for the control. So 145.00 and some fab work power steering is a no brainer... pics later...

[charlie]

God on so your saying power steering for a 150$$ sign me up pics please?

[charlie]

Type error suppose to say hold on not God

[bigdan120]

Yeah around 150.00 plus some fab work then welding and grinding. .. this one was alot easier I feel then the other one I had in it... going to seal off around the steering this time and leave the computer unsealed I think... we will see how lazy I get...

[bigdan120]

I posted my pics at my Sperlak's fix it shop facebook page.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=rhhtVYPlN4vHsQTIu4PwAg&url=https://www.facebook.com/Sperlak%3Ffref%3Dphoto&ved=0CCIQFjAC&usg=AFQjCNH97RjaX_3DGofqouo3HQEPHntgjg&sig2=pJl9UjS2fGGuPVgx9bjpgg

[charlie]

new steering wheel and colum?? will the stock one not work??

[bigdan120]

Anything can work if you want to design and fabricate the parts needed. I chose the easier path. The stock column could be fabricated to fit. But the power unit would be real low. I can tell you this. If you run locked front and climb a hill I'm sure you know if it catch on one side your steering will rip your fingers off. With these units you can do the same hill climb with one hand on steering and have little problems. This is why I chose to do it. If you like stock looking ad ons and just plug and play it is not happening unless someone would do a kit for our Joyners. Which prob won't happen. Could I improve and make it easier for everyone? Probably.. But at that point your back into alot of money. I feel that most people that own Joyners are people that are fabricators machinist hobbyists that are self doers. So a kit just wouldn't be profitable or worth making kits because of machine work that would be involved for parts to just bolt in. I'm gonna guess a kit to bolt in would be in the 700.00 range.... because of various variables that would have to be addressed.

[bigdan120]

This should help in figuring out what is needed...

[bigdan120]

If you go to do this conversion grab the 2 electric plugs that come from car it will be the middle one. black and red and 1 small one with 2 wires small wires I believe. There is only 1 more plug but that one comes from electric motor on the steering.I grabbed the whole column including steering wheel and lower complete shaft assembly. I'm sure there is a difference in the column s between the years that is listed. Mine is the one Out of an Chevy Equinox with tilt.

[Kinarfi]

When I first started making an electrical power assist for my Trooper, I started with the drive wheel from a power wheels toy for kids and 2 relays, full power. That worked fairly well for a while, much better than no assist, then Lenny said, make the power out proportional to the torque in. I rejected that idea for a while, but became absorbed with the idea and I have made many models and designs and trials. I'm very happy with the controller I'm using right now and it can be built by someone with electronics knowledge. It is set to be very sensitive so it needs less input torque than most, it also has the remnants of an earlier trial set up that didn't get removed, so I added a switch that allows me to choose between sensitive and not so sensitive. The power unit is an older 170watt unit from http://www.superatv.com/UNIVERSAL-Kits-C1039.aspx, but has been up powered with a motor from Banebots, which can handle more power than I can safely feed to it with out burning up parts.

So if you have a power unit and no controller, maybe you can build one or have some one build one for you. I have attached the schematic, a spice file is available if you contact me, this program won't allow me to upload it