Quantcast
Jump to content

Charging system weak?


Charles Hines

Recommended Posts

I have a 2022 Coleman 400 utv. I have added a heater with a 3 speed fan. I notice that while running with nothing on, the battery voltage gets to about 13,7 volts when funning at speed. If I turn on the lights, the voltage drops to about 12.3,if I turn on the heater fan with the lights on, the battery light will come on. I have replaced the battery with a higher capacity one and have replaced the regulator/rectifier, both have made no difference. I have measured the ac voltage at 22 vac at idle across all 3 phases, so the stator is charging. I have never had any issues with not starting or running poorly due to low voltage. Just wondering if there is anything I can do to increase the voltage from the regulator or is this just a underachieving system?
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  1. Its' not a car, this is a motorcycle engine with a small stator charging system. You can't expect to run high wattage accessories like a heater or huge light bars on these things . That will overwhelm the charging system, drain your battery an stop your engine. Could damage the charging system and voltage regulator too. You only have about 10 amps extra to run any accessories including lights. 
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a idea about an senior and good aftermarket charging system company that has salvaged some new sales failures for a friend.  Charging system puked in a few hours after purchase.  That takes the shine off of a new unit.  Rick's to the rescue.

Design wise, the stator is made "light" on the windings so the regulator can be lower cost build....i.e.....cheap as is the "power runs in the OEM harness.  The regulator used is a waste excess charging current system.  The excess current is shunted to ground over and above that required for the 13.6V ish to charge the battery and run accessories.  A higher wattage stator will need a higher wattage regulator.  $$$$$$$$

We used Rick's for years.....the latest "problem" I heard about was a xmxmxmx unit that had a strong stator but the voltage regulator used for certain models dies and the regulator is on national back order.  NEWLY SOLD UNIT IS UNUSABLE and NO LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL.  Rick's built up a "custom" regulator to fix the problem that xmxmxmx Engrs could not or would not fix.  It is a multi-year screw up so there was time if Rick's worked up a winner in a week why not the OEM Engrs.

Contact Rick's and spec a hotter stator and a matching better regulator.  Warning:  I have had to beef up the stator wires and regulator supply and gnd wires over the stock OEM wiring harness for some real headlights on street bikes.....too much drop in the cheap wiring runs.  Just saying, you might have to do some harness upgrades also. 

Rick's Motorsports Electrics       ricksmotorsportelectrics.com

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Bill Hughes said:

Electric power comes from mechanical power. The charging system is small so it doesn't rob too much horsepower, not because it's cheaper to do it this way. 

I imagine both are considerations when deciding on finished product. Cost vs. payoff always come into play. More electric power would mean increasing the horsepower, or losing performance, and designing the circuits to handle the increased power capacity. More expensive all the way around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
On 11/15/2023 at 5:20 PM, Charles Hines said:

I have a 2022 Coleman 400 utv. I have added a heater with a 3 speed fan. I notice that while running with nothing on, the battery voltage gets to about 13,7 volts when funning at speed. If I turn on the lights, the voltage drops to about 12.3,if I turn on the heater fan with the lights on, the battery light will come on. I have replaced the battery with a higher capacity one and have replaced the regulator/rectifier, both have made no difference. I have measured the ac voltage at 22 vac at idle across all 3 phases, so the stator is charging. I have never had any issues with not starting or running poorly due to low voltage. Just wondering if there is anything I can do to increase the voltage from the regulator or is this just a underachieving system?
 

Are you talking about an electric heater? if yes its likely too much current. There might be 10 amps of available current coming out of the rectifier that isn't already claimed by the ECU and factory lights. 10 amps @ 12V  = 120 Watts, which is about what an electric heating pad runs. If you're talking about a fan for a engine coolant based heater it's probably ok.

If you have accessories and the running voltage is below 13.5V you have too much stuff attached. If the battery light comes on it means the battery is actively being discharged while running.

Stator based charging systems on these things and tractors etc are really meant to power the ECU and factory systems not to provide a lot of extra power for other stuff, it's not like the alternator on a car.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By ETHIEL
      Spark plug keeps fouling. after 10-15 minutes of running any ideas what to look fore 
    • By AlaskaTrail
      Hi All,
      New to UTVs and recently accuired a ut400 from our local Alaska Commercial Co. and had a questions regarding the transmission fluid. I have had a squeeling noise, sounds like a teapot, that recently started after being driven for a few minutes. The manual says to change the fluid at 500 miles, so I was thinking maybe its just time for this to be changed. Other then that I cannot find any information regarding the type used. While reading through these forums, I seen someone put that the transmission is lubricated with the engine oil. Is this true? If not what should I be using and where can I find the information to change it out? Any input on this would be greatly appretiated!
      Thanks in advance
    • By buckrub
      Hey guys! Newbie here. I'm an old man who's better with plowing a mule (4-legged kind) than these newfangled beasts. I, and a friend of mine, just bought new Coleman sxs and are having to finish the assembly. I've been reading on this site and I'm falling on the mercy of you experts. The only way I'm an expert is that an "ex" is a has been, and a spurt is a drip under pressure. LOL First off, the 2 buggies have no ignition switches. They seem to mount on the dash, not the opening in the steering wheel shaft cover, so we ordered new ones that are supposed to fit. They are 8 inches long, and have a 4-wired white plugin which is slightly rectangled when looking at the end of the plug. The trouble is there's nothing to plug into. There is a three-wire grey plug close enough to reach the four-wire plug, but of course, they are not compatible. 
      Secondly, the blinker, light, ect. unit on steering wheel just spins around when touched. I see no way in heaven or earth to secure it. I've looked at a diagram on the Powersports site, but can't detect how it mounted. Fellows I'd be so grateful for any help with this. Me and my mule will even plow your garden for free, for your help. LOL 
       
    • By nods
      Less than 40 miles can barely start. Dealer is working with Hisun on a number of other issues on this UTV. Can not get clear info on the meaning of these E codes this is getting. Anybody have some clear info for me?
    • By moonrover
      Mine is overheated/burned/melt at connection with its wire connector, parts are ordered to replace both them.  This seems to be a common issue, and some of you already replaced it. I right now just connect the wires, so the fan runs  all the time whenever the initiation is on, but it's better let fan runs as needed with a working temperature sensor/switch. 
      Question: Does some coolant come out by removing the switch/sensor from radiator?  Or, is the threaded hole all the way inside radiator?   If the answer is yes,  I want to drain or extract  some coolant to make its level below the sensor before replacing it, so I don't make a mess with coolant spilled out 
      Thank you.  
×
×
  • Create New...