Machine sat and had multiple rodent chews thru out the wiring that we fixed. Also replaced the Following: ECU, Coil and Plug Wire, small Control Box that contains fuses and relays. Pick Up coil test at 219 ohms which is typically good on most machines but i can't find the specific manual on this thing to get the spec. Battery good, cranks fine but the fuel pump doesn't prime or run and no spark. Tested pump with direct 12volts and it works. If we supply a ground to the pump it primes and works but still no spark. We have traced all wiring including grounding and all is good. Tested key switch. I has (4) positions. 1 - off, 2 - does nothing, 3 - powers up everything (lighting and odometer and powers ECU, 4 - starts engine. The key switch only has 3 wires. 12v in from battery and 2 - 12v out which is power to the system and send 12v to starter relay coil.
Are these electrical systems actually switching the grounds on and off vs the traditional switching the 12v+ on and off.
at my wits end with this thing.
Also when we figure this problem out we will post the solution. seems 90% of people that ask for help on these forums, never post the fix which make this pointless.
By erk mann
Bike was flooded in tropical storm. Replaced ecu and coil. Motor turns over but no spark have 12volts on one wire of coil. How much voltage should be on other small wire? Crank position sensor is about 200ohms. . Cleaned plug with sandpaper. Want a wiring diagram to check voltage at ecu. I have update. The blue wire going to coil has no voltage when turning it over. The white with black stripe has 12vdc when key is turned to on position.also, how do I clean the connectors on ecu? I dont see how I can get a screwdriver in there to release them. Found a schematic.i still need to clean connectors though
By M C
Hey guys just bought a 07 trooper. Previous owner stated it ran great etc prior to clutch job then had issues. I drained tank, replaced plugs etc. found one of the injectors connectors was not connected and plugged it in. Solid 50psi fuel pressure. It starts easier than previously on 3 cylinders but still runs very very poorly. I’m thinking the sound I’m hearing is it detonating at around 3k. It kinda sputters and falls apart. Sounds like clicking or something when it happens. I am at a bit of a loss, compression is a solid 150psi across the board with no movement. Verified spark and now am assuming all injector are functioning more or less correct as if I unplug any one it sound terrible at idle.
A note, I tapped plugs at .7 manual called for .9-1.1 but that seems super over doing it but I will try adjusting them to 1.0
additionally I’ve noticed the fan in rear doesn’t turn on.
anyone with any help I will be in your debt.
By Regretting my choices
Hello. I purchased this unit as a "non runner" with the intent of using the frame to build a go-cart, but once I got it home it seemed way to good to part out. The motor cranks over, and I have spark, but no fuel. If I put a little fuel in the cylinder it fires up until that fuel is burnt, then of course it dies. The fuel pump is not running and I have removed the plug and there is no power going to it. I have checked the safety switch on the brake pedal and its fine, I have checked the fuses, all good, but am not sure where to go from here. The shifter is missing on the unit, but the indicator light on the dash shows its in neutral, and the e-brake indicator switch is working as well. I am thinking of jumping power to the fuel pump next to see if it runs and if the motor will start.
What am I missing? What can stop the fuel pump from getting power to it?