Quantcast
Jump to content

2002 - Mule 3010 - Front Differential fluid fill location?


Recommended Posts

Where oh where is the front differential fluid fill location?? I found the drain but cannot find the fill plug! The manual shows a plug just in front of the differential vent tube but there is NOT one there on my Mule!

 

Don't want to drain until I know where/how to fill it. I know it takes very little fluid but how do you get it in the frick'n differential? Been on the lift 2 weeks now!!!

DSCN2903.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gotta be on the front side, at or near the top. Mine is an 05, 3010. And it's clearly visible from the front, when you bend over just enough to see the diff. 

  Maybe yours just doesn't look like that's what it is. Like the trans. drain on my Honda. It just looks like another bolt. Good thing the factory labeled it with tiny letters. Shame they didn't do that in your case.

If you think a picture of mine might help, I'd be happy to go out and snap one. But mine is too obvious, there's no way anyone could miss it. So yours is likely different.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Ken!...but I found it!

The SPECS show it being in a different place but I found it tucked tightly behind the front skid plate. I was confident that I was wasting my time pulling the skid plate because I felt I could see everything clearly enough but.......NO. Once I dropped the plate there it was looking just like a "fill plug"!! I wasted 3 days whining about it rather than grab a wrench and turn a few bolts!

 

Lesson learned! I filled the Engine oil today along with the Tranny...over filled both!!!!! Spent all afternoon messing with a syringe to suck the excess out.

 

I'll do the front diff tomorrow and NOT over fill it. It supposedly only takes 0.06 of a quart. I'm also using some "limited slip differential fluid" for my Corvette. Maybe that'll help with the 'ol "Mule Differential Chatter".

Thanks again,

DJ

DSCN3008.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Hillman said:

Thanks Ken!...but I found it!

The SPECS show it being in a different place but I found it tucked tightly behind the front skid plate. I was confident that I was wasting my time pulling the skid plate because I felt I could see everything clearly enough but.......NO. Once I dropped the plate there it was looking just like a "fill plug"!! I wasted 3 days whining about it rather than grab a wrench and turn a few bolts!

 

Lesson learned! I filled the Engine oil today along with the Tranny...over filled both!!!!! Spent all afternoon messing with a syringe to suck the excess out.

 

I'll do the front diff tomorrow and NOT over fill it. It supposedly only takes 0.06 of a quart. I'm also using some "limited slip differential fluid" for my Corvette. Maybe that'll help with the 'ol "Mule Differential Chatter".

Thanks again,

DJ

DSCN3008.JPG

Nice lift you have there!

I'm glad you found that plug, mine is tough to get to with the huge winch mount that's there. But I remember seeing that plug on the front of the diff. Hope I don't need to access it anytime soon. I'd probably come in from the top.

Hope that cures the problem you're having. Others have problems caused by driving on hard pack, with the vehicle in 4wd. That's definitely something to avoid. I'll occasionally exercise the front differential, by using a perfectly straight road, and not even a swerve. Put it in 4wd for a block or so. Since mine rarely sees any mud, or hills, I do this to keep the seals from drying out. I've heard others needing serious work to remedy problems caused by leaving it in 4wd on hard pack, or pavement. 

Don't know if you've got the torque specs, I'm sure they're the same as mine. Looks like 22ft lb.

20170728_183658.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Irons
      Hopefully this helps somebody because I couldn't find any info on this runaway condition.

      Drove 1/2 mile to the gas station and when I started up to leave the starter stuck on. Turn key off starter is still running~! Limp it home wondering what the heck to do, get it in the garage and pull the negative battery terminal to get it to stop. Whew, WTF?

      Calm down and start checking things, starter is hot of course but nothing is smoking and nothing smells burnt. Pull battery cover off and start checking wires from battery to relay and relay to the starter. OK good nothing is hot, nothing is crispy and nothing is melted. Probably smoked the starter though. If this had happened to my wife and I wasn't around the machine would have run until the battery died and probably melted down/burned.

      I'll get to the point to save you folks some time and trouble. Because this is a kymco machine you need 2 different Kawasaki parts to make this repair, and information is scarce to say the least. The switch and a sub harness to connect it to the machine's plug.

      Everything works now, but the starter sounds horrible so I'll be changing that too before spring.

      Good luck out there and hopefully this is just a freak occurrence, but if I were you I'd get rid of this kymco part and put the Kawasaki replacement in now.

      Switch, Magnetic is part number 27010-0767
      Sub Harness Start Relay is part number 26031-Y034
       
       

    • By TBoss 560 2023
      Got a new 2023 TBoss 560 with 40 miles on it now. Noticed after about and hour of plowing snow coolant started hissing out the overflow tube. Initially made a pop or blow kind of noise and then saw some steam and smelt coolant. Coolent level is in the middle between low and high (running or not). Coolant under radiator cap is full when cold, appears nice and green. Checked oil doesn’t look milky. The temp ranges from 160-180 F running for 15-20. Noticed the other day there was some more coolant that blew out the overflow tube. I called the dealer and they said the system could be purging air. Dealer is 2+ hours away so wanting to get more thoughts before considering to bring it in. Also noticing hot/burning rubber smell but I think this is from the belt breaking in? Also notice the coolant smell from the exhaust when in higher RPMs. No white smoke from the exhaust. Also another possible issue. I notice that there’s a little bounce when on pavement. You can also hear the CVT kind of make noise with this bounce in tandem. Is this normal?
    • By ILoveOldJunk
      Recently acquired a 21 year old Mule.  The previous owner let the brake master cylinder run dry, and when I flushed the brakes, one wheel's brakes locked up.  I took the wheel off, but cannot get the axle nut off, and there is not enough space to get my gear puller behind the drum anyway.  Anybody had an issue with seized brakes?  How can I get this thing off to replace it or rebuild it?
    • By Werhat
      Hi folks,
      I have a Mule 550 (FE290D engine) that sat for several years and would not start.  A few years ago I replaced the fuel filter and carburetor, at which point it started right up and developed full power.  More recently, I've changed the air filter, fuel pump, ignition coil (gapped to spec), and spark plug, and adjusted the valves.  The engine still has a lope/surge at part throttle and at idle.  Rather than idling at a stable speed, it speeds up and slows down until it quits.  It snaps to life right away if I open the throttle, so I don't think it's starved of fuel.  I can always get it to restart immediately if I choke it while cranking, then it will die after several seconds again.  It takes some cranking to start hot when not choked.  I've tried adjusting the idle mixture, but no setting seems to make it stable.  It won't idle at all with the throttle fully closed; I have to turn the stop screw to hold it slightly open.
      I suspect it's getting idle air, since the passages are open, but that the idle jet isn't providing adequate fuel, such that I am having to hold the throttle open and idle it off the main jet which isn't stable.  This is just speculation.  I've cleaned the idle jet and tried a larger size, but it made zero difference.  The carburetor seems to be clean.  It's been doing this since I installed the new carb.  The gas tank seems to be clean, although it's hard to see inside.
      I posted a video of what it's doing:
      What's next?  Try another carburetor?
      Thanks.
       
    • By lowgear52
      Does anyone out there have a rear differential for a trooper for sale?
×
×
  • Create New...