Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok guys I tore my diff apard anfrer shearing the ring gear bolts. Drug my butt after rearing it down, yesterday while placing a McMaster Carr order I searched the board for the part number and added the bolt s to my normal order. They showed up this morning and I realized they are long , really long. I grabbed a set of calipers and mic'ed the carrier and ring gear and come up with about 16mm in length.

 

So the question is why in the worldvare the bolts that folks talk about 40mm long ? Are you guys ordering them long so that they have a shank at the top where they go thru the carrier & cutting them off ?

 

Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted

Yes!!! that is exactly the reason. I am the one who started the act of using these bolts, my reasoning being that the thread acts as a place for the bolt to start shearing, just cut them all to length and remember, you have to grind the head down also, I think I posted a photo of that also.  to grind them down, I used a drill and a grinder, and I never did agree with those who put nuts on the bolts, 

AND while you have access to the mating surfaces, sand them so the locktite has a little more to grab onto when you apply it to all the very clean surfaces and bolt when you do your final assembly. 

did you find any instruction on how to do all this or have they been lost?

Jeff

Posted

Jeff I didnt find any instructions. I cut the bokts to legth and shimmed the pinion to sit as deep as possible. I realized why these diffs break. They are junk. Lol . I can't shim the carrier to adjust back lash. Well without maching the case to allow for the carrier to move

Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk

Posted

I have been cleaning my garage and ran into the original instruction papers that Lenny sent out with the shim kit. I'm wondering if there's much interest having them posted and the hassle of copying everything. We'll see!

Jeff

Posted
12 hours ago, bigdan120 said:

Could just take photos and post up... Be easier imo. There's some that will benefit in the future I'm sure.

please take some photos of the bolt heads and how much machining you had to do for clearance.

Posted

Ah man now the direction come out, too late for me. The lousy part was I spoke to Silver bullet and he said he had never heard of anyone shimming the spider gears. I had planned to do that just like I do in other diffs. I sorted thru my shims and found what was need to shim the pinion but didn't see any shims behinde the bearing on the carrier to tighten backlash anymore. Now I wish I just went with my plan and shimmed the spiders. I could have ordered plenty of shims. It is better but not ideal. Hopefully it lasts another few years an I can reset up as I'd like later. Bad thing is I tigged the spider gear shafts to the carrier as per Silver bullet but I could easily dress the weld with an endmill and pull them out

Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Topics

    • By nrggaragebuilds
      2004 250DL DIRT DEVIL. Hey y’all, I already know this is a long shot. But I am looking for a the “prick gear” assembly that makes reverse work for my external reverse gearbox. OEM PN D250.08.103 and its assembly. I bought the kart as a basket case, but I saw that the reverse box was present so I was optimistic.  Upon starting working on the buggy I realized there was a block off plate in plate of there the normal gear would be. If my understanding is correct that means the transmission no longer has reverse gear. I figured it’s just a standard bevel gear and I could probably find a gear to make work, but I don’t want to spend the time making all the other housing parts to shim the gear perfectly. Has anyone spare parts, or figured out an aftermarket solution from McMaster? I already know it’ll be a challenge to get this box to be happy again, but figured I would ask  
    • By AlphaSerenity
      Hello,
      Before I invest $10k+ into a brand new UTV for the farm, I want to get my feet wet with a fixer upper and learn the mechanical side of things. I acquired a 2022 Hisun Axis 500 (Lowes-specific model) from an auction for $500. It has only 200 hours and 120 miles on the engine. It looks like the previous owner used it for ranch work and didn't drive it on trails, deep water/mud, or anything too crazy.
      While it runs and moves, it has some problems. It struggles to accelerate up any incline in high and low range and sometimes stalls when I let off of the throttle or change gears. When I apply throttle in neutral, it sounds like it is struggling for fuel/air and pops. When I decelerate, there is a grinding sound coming from the clutch, which I've read to be related to the one way bearing and is semi-common. The last thing I've observed is sometimes the speedometer display sometimes will show a much higher value for a few seconds after barely touching the throttle. Based on the documentation, if a problem is detected from the sensors, the instrument panel display should have an error code rendered on the screen in place of the time, but this isn't happening. Here is a video showing some of these issues (engine is exposed with console removed):
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFAkO5TaGps
       
      Here is another video of the clutches in action:
       
      I've done some research, but information on this specific unit and sister units is limited. There does seem to be transmission and clutch issues reported. I still need to check into the head gaskets. I don't have the equipment to test compression right now, but I do plan on ordering what is needed soon. I do have an order in place for some cables to read the diagnostics from the computer. There is a shop two hours away from me that works on Hisun products, but I am hoping the problem can be identified and is something within my ability to handle. Below is what I've already investigated.  I am leaning towards the primary clutch needing replacement right now.
      After getting it home and unloaded, I did the following maintenance/checks to it prior to operating it further:
      Changed the engine/clutch oil (and filter) and gear oils using manufacture recommended viscosity Changed the air filter and checked for cracks in the air intake flow. Verified good suction. Cleaned the throttle body Changed the spark plug and verified the gap was within spec (0.6-0.7mm) Changed the coil and coil wire Changed the fuel lines, fuel injector, and verified the fuel pump was outputting the correct initial prime pressure for ignition and continuous pressure after ignition. Also completely emptied the fuel tank and made sure octane 91+ fuel is being used per manufacturer specs. Ran seafoam through system too. Cleaned the spark arrester and verified no cracks or gaps in the exhaust flow Changed out the O2 sensor Checked all wired connections to ensure they were secured and no breaks were visible Checked the belt for tightness and for any signs of wear and tear Verified 4WD and the differential lock function as expected - still hesitates and struggles uphill Verified the fan gears in the shifter are not corroded and working as expected ECU was reset after replacing sensors and fuel-related parts  
       
      Thanks!
    • By Debbie Hogan
      I realize this part is discontinued but im trying to find this exhaust pipe fir my dads 550.  His brother who has since passed bought this mule for my dad who is now 90 and he is trying to fix everything on it.  I'm willing to take a used one.  A new one would be great if someone still had in stock.  I'll take anything as long as it is in workable condition.   If anyone has any ideas for me im open to hearing them.  Thank you so much.
       
      Debbie fm  Texas
    • By CarlB
      I have a 2022 Hisun 750 Sector which comes with a locked rear differential. Was wondering if it would be possible to install an unlocking differential.  I see that there are some Hisun made machines that come with the unlocking rear diff, such as Cub Cadet Challenger, some of the Massimos, and probably others. My concern is whether these would be a direct bolt on, using the original axles, drive shaft, and of course matching gear ratio. I've tried to match up part numbers but it seems every brand has their own number system even for parts that I know are identical. If anyone has ever done this swap or has any information about the whether these unlocking rear diffs are comparable to the Sector, I'd appreciate your input.
    • By mrpro
      My 2022 Coleman/Hisun UTV 400 steering shaft has a couple of U-joints and angles to help get it down from the steering column to the rack.  Today, my son who drives it most came in and said that it wouldn't steer and that he could turn the steering wheel but it doesn't turn the wheels  I investigated and noticed that the bolt that clamps down the upper part of the steering shaft onto the lower one before the first u-joint in the steering shaft had fallen out.  We haven't been able to find it, so I wanted to see what size and thread, bolt I should get to fix it?  
×
×
  • Create New...