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By Xov
Just received delivery of a 2024 AMP Pro. Thought I'd start a thread with my impressions as I use it and learn more. There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of real-world usage information out there on this model. Hope this will help others as they research.
Intended Use Cases
Fire mitigation / slash removal from a 5 acre forested and well-gamble-oaked property. The previous owners thought as much about fire mitigation as I do about fashion: not much. Snow removal Stump pulling General hauling (rock, lumber, etc.) Weimaraner energy depletion. Wasn't an original use case, but a nice added bonus. Experiences So Far
Wasn't impressed that two of the bumpers on the underside of the bed where it sits upon the frame were missing. The metal on metal contact has damaged the powder coating and the frame. I expect a little better QC.
I've only put a few hours on it, so not a ton to report on usage. It isn't quiet; it's silent. I can't even detect an electric note from the motor. I removed (and subsequently replaced) the motor cover noticed that the motor is German and made by Schambuller. The motor controller is Italian and made by Dana TM4. Given the operating specs of both I found on the web, I suspect both are higher quality than the previous Navitas (which is supposed to be decent). The motor is rated at 25 hp and 71.5 lb-ft of torque. It feels very powerful. All the torque is delivered instantly, if desired.
The bed is huge and has an electric dump as standard. Great feature but would like it to go up a bit more. Probably not feasible from an engineering perspective, but I want and I need ;).
Power steering is nice, but vague. Probably common to many UTVs, but I am accustomed to more direct results from input. Plan early and plan often.
In our first full day of usage, we hauled about 1/2 as much slash as the entire rest of the year when I was doing it by hand cart. I may get fatter, but I'll also get more done. After a few days of usage, the battery meter has gone down by 1/10th.
Until next time...
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By Chile
2018 Massimo MSU 700 EFI. I realize that this engine is essential the same as in all of the HISUN based Yamaha clones out there. I am in the process of performing a top end diagnosis/rebuild. I have an AMAZON top end rebuild kit on order in anticipation of this activity.
Question 1: When exploring the myriad of top end rebuild kits on the market for these units there are some cylinder assemblies that have "686 cm3" badging next to the cam cain tensioner boss. Others compatible with the unit do not have this badging. The existing cylinder assy does not have the 686 badging. I am assuming that this simply verifies that the cylinder assy is for a 686 cm3 engine which of course the stock 700 series HISUN engines are. Am I missing something here or is this just a manufacturer artifact? With or without the badging the application listings all indicate compatibility with the MSU 700 series engines.
Question 2: I have reviewed at minimum a dozen videos associated with this rebuild. To date I have not found one that deals with piston/cylinder clearance and/or ring gap verification. The advertised specifications for these various "top end rebuild kits" all indicate: Cylnider bore = 102mm and piston diameter=101.5mm. The math yields a .5mm (as in 1/2 mm) difference. That seems to be a very large piston/cylinder clearance. I realize I am referencing advertised specs rather than emperically measured values but the numbers have gotten my attention. I have referenced the FSM and found it to be somewhat confusing in this regard. Hopefully the experts on this forum can enlighten me as to where my observations are faulty here.
Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated .
Thank you all in advance,
Chile
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By Prepper
I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500. Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire. It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference). It has compression. I bought it not running, and no other information was available. It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours. It looks to be in very good shape. Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far. My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time. My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct? In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible. In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another). However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line. Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust. I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves.
Any thoughts ? Does this appear to be in proper valve time ? Have I missed anything simple ? Thanks in advance for your input.
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By Matthew Smith
2013 Bennche Bighorn 700 EFI
I just picked up this project that I was told would crank, but not start. This is what I’ve figured out so far….
I installed a new battery and get all dash lights, head lights, and brake lights on when turning the ignition on. Fuel pump even turns on. It does not crank with the key, but would when I jumped the starter solenoid, so I replaced it…..no change.
Figured I’d check for spark and compression while I was dorking around. Compression is 150 psi, but there is no spark. Replaced the spark plug… no change.
So, is my new starter solenoid bad? Could it be the brake or gear position switches even though the brakes and neutral lights come on? Not sure where to go from here.
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By Flanman55
2007 Hisun HS700 will not crank. Replace the ignition switch. Same thing. Replaced solenoid by the battery same thing. Can jump it and it starts good across the solenoid posts. Ran a jumper wire from switch to solenoid. Nothing
can anyone suggest something else.
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