This post will explain how to hook up your PC to the ECU of a Hisun/Coleman/Etc UTV to be able to read error codes & engine parameters for troubleshooting purposes.
This is applicable to all small engines using the Delphi MT-05 ECU. This should cover all fuel injected Hisun models, as well as various other Chinese FI engines, as the Delphi MT-05 ECU seems to be the favored ECU solution.
Even though we get actual engine error codes to display on the dash, sometimes we have “pending codes” (not yet confirmed by the ECU) or other intermittent issues that are hard to diagnose, for example a poorly connected sensor that may give intermittent false readings, or a sensor that’s putting out bad date, but not bad enough for the ECU to realize.
The setup requires 2 cables, which are available for around $25 combined, a PC with a USB port, and some charityware software called “HUD ECU Hacker”. This gives the same functionality as the $300 dealer code scanner for a fraction of the price.
In searching I found info about HUD ECU Hacker, but I have yet to see info anywhere about how to hook it up to a Hisun, so I took the leap and bought some cables, and made it work. I will show a step by step of how to do so in post two.
I will be breaking this down into 2 posts:
Delphi ECU Info & Overview (This post) System setup & use Delphi ECU Info (Skip ahead to the next post if your eyes glaze over technical details)
The Delphi MT-05 ECU was developed to allow small engines to use fuel injection. A fuel injection system requires feedback from various sensors to operate efficiently. This feedback allows the adjustment of ignition timing, fuel injection volume, etc to efficiently and cleanly produce the most power possible from a given engine.
The MT-05 ECU has a number of sensors that are required for proper functioning including; Coolant temp, crankshaft position, intake temp, intake pressure, exhaust O2, throttle position, as well as some other optional sensors that are used on more complex vehicles.
From the sensors the ECU adjusts: Fuel injector timing/pulse, Idle air control valve, and ignition coil
The Delphi MT-05 puts out diagnostic data, however it is not ODB2 like a modern car, where is where it gets tricky reading it. There are three options, there is an old 16 bit piece of software Delphi has that is not able to run on a modern computer, there is the motorscanner tool for dealers ($300), or there is freeware HUD ECU Hacker with the proper cables.
Just received delivery of a 2024 AMP Pro. Thought I'd start a thread with my impressions as I use it and learn more. There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of real-world usage information out there on this model. Hope this will help others as they research.
Intended Use Cases
Fire mitigation / slash removal from a 5 acre forested and well-gamble-oaked property. The previous owners thought as much about fire mitigation as I do about fashion: not much. Snow removal Stump pulling General hauling (rock, lumber, etc.) Weimaraner energy depletion. Wasn't an original use case, but a nice added bonus. Experiences So Far
Wasn't impressed that two of the bumpers on the underside of the bed where it sits upon the frame were missing. The metal on metal contact has damaged the powder coating and the frame. I expect a little better QC.
I've only put a few hours on it, so not a ton to report on usage. It isn't quiet; it's silent. I can't even detect an electric note from the motor. I removed (and subsequently replaced) the motor cover noticed that the motor is German and made by Schambuller. The motor controller is Italian and made by Dana TM4. Given the operating specs of both I found on the web, I suspect both are higher quality than the previous Navitas (which is supposed to be decent). The motor is rated at 25 hp and 71.5 lb-ft of torque. It feels very powerful. All the torque is delivered instantly, if desired.
The bed is huge and has an electric dump as standard. Great feature but would like it to go up a bit more. Probably not feasible from an engineering perspective, but I want and I need ;).
Power steering is nice, but vague. Probably common to many UTVs, but I am accustomed to more direct results from input. Plan early and plan often.
In our first full day of usage, we hauled about 1/2 as much slash as the entire rest of the year when I was doing it by hand cart. I may get fatter, but I'll also get more done. After a few days of usage, the battery meter has gone down by 1/10th.
Until next time...
Hello there! I hear a low rumble/rattle when it’s just sitting still with the engine running idle. Has less than 20 hours of run time. Have a listen to the attached audio. I don’t if this is normal. Slightest amount of gas and rattle goes away. All in neutral. Shifting transmission changes nothing
By Rick McGill
So, here's my story. I have a 2009 Hisun 700cc UTV. Started out as a freebie but you know nothing is free. I'm no mechanic but a neighbor is very good with this stuff and he's been doing all the work. I'm just doing all the cosmetic stuff. After replacing rings, piston, gaskets and seals, water pump, etc., he found that a circlip and a roll pin that hold the oil pump shaft in, have fallen off inside the engine at some time in the past. We don't know when or how long it's been driven that way. I got it from another neighbor who only drove it around the neighborhood once in a while. Anyway, the guy working on it thinks maybe we should just scrap the engine and find a replacement. I've heard the Yamaho Rhino 660 is almost a direct fit for the Hisun 700. My question is, "how direct?" Will it drop right into the same motor mounts? Will all the connections match up? Air box? Gearing? Carb? Sensors? This one is not fuel injected. OR-- If it's easier, where could I get a Hisun engine? Thanks in advance for all your input.
Some time ago unit stalled going uphill towing a small motorcycle. Some smoke and smell of rubber burning. Removed belt and it looked ok but the case area was grimy with grease-like sludge. Cleaned it all out and installed new belt and front variator pulley assembly. Within a few minutes of running it was destroyed in pieces—this was low speed but uphill, with jerking/stuttering.
I then opened it up and removed the belt remains, but reinstalled the old belt. It runs again but again has the stuttering/jerking when accelerating from stop, or when slowing down to about 1-2mph…changed transaxle fluid and no difference.