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By Mitch13
2022 Coleman 400 with 13 hours on the engine and the mice got to it. Every wire coming out of the steering column in one cluster has been eaten through. I tried reconnecting matching wire colors to each other and I get the left turn signal and hazards to work, nothing else. If I play around a bit I can get the horn to honk or headlights to come on but only when I connect them to the brown wire. Obviously I don't know what I am doing here. Does anyone have a picture of how these wires are connected when they are under the hood on the drivers side coming from the steering column?
Gray - seems to carry power
Brown - left turn signal
Green with purple stripe - hazards?
Pink with red stripe - horn?
Green - head lights?
Yellow - head lights?
Yellow with red stripe?
Blue?
Dark green?
There is also a bundle hanging under the hood not connected to anything green with yellow strip, brown and blue?
Other than that issue, I am about ready to sell this for parts if you interested let me know.
Thanks
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By Tommy2bits
Just bought a brand new 2022 (NOS) Sector E1 with Lithium upgrade. (Single 135ah/200amp continuous). I've climbed a moderate hill in my woods probably 20 times since buying it. Today It won't climb it unless I am in Low. In High it almost makes it and then completely dies and I have to roll back down the hill. In Mid range (Max Range) I can't get 2 feet up the hill and the power output in only 100 amps, I have climbed this hill in every speed before many times. I put it on the trailer tonight and it wouldn't even get on the dang trailer in mid range. Torque is gone. That being said, when I am just cruising around in Midrange, it runs absolutely perfect with plenty of power. The only thing I did was charge it up, that is all. I charged to 100% using the charger that came with the battery. Before you think the BMS is shutting down due to overcharge protection, remember I am going UP hill so there is no regeneration AND I have done it before at 100% charge AND another big problem is that after 1 mile it is already down to 85% so it's not over charging and why is the battery draining so fast when I got 27 miles before. Battery output is fine in Low it pulls 200 amp up the hill just like normal so that doesn't point to the battery being the issue. All the individual cells on the battery are in line, so there is no dead cell either. I am tech savvy but to toward electric motors and I tried to cover all my bases. Please don't tell me basics like torque is reduced in High and Mid. The only thing I can think of is that I smelled something when I took my first drive today and I thought it was the Ebrake dragging but there was the correct amount of play in the cable and I jacked up the rear wheels and they spin freely. maybe something burned out in the motor, I do not knowm still runs great, we'll see if I have any trouble on the hills at the lake house this weekend. Maybe this is "Normal" and the settings were off before and was giving equal torque for whatever reason instead of 50% in Mid and 70% in High like the manual says....
For reference....this is it not even able to get on the trailer in mid range
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By Bigmountainrider
Hi Team,
I'm new to the Forum, and I'm looking for your help. I have a 2009 Yamaha Rhino 700 that has stopped consistently charging. Here are the specs and Info I can provide, the Stator and Regulator are new. The Stator does not have continuity to ground on all 3 wires at the engine bay plug. The stator puts out 15-17AC/V at Idle and 38-39AC/V at 2000rpm at both the engine bay plug and the regulator plug. The Battery regulator plug has Battery DC Voltage, when Running the regulator puts out Charging voltage 13.4-15V. I have upgraded/added ground wires from the primary battery to the engine block, from the stock ground wire bolt on the engine to the Chassis and from the secondary battery to the regulator grounding bolt/ground wire. Now the symptoms are it Charges when first started and will continue to charge while driving or at high idle until the machine returns to idle- it will not charge after that, this includes any RPM. If your shut the machine off and restart the process restarts -it will charge until returned to idle. The Machine has and RM Stator and Regulator and a Kimpex Flywheel. The last time it was driven it had an overheating event- unrelated to charging I think, but worth the mention.
Any thoughts would be helpful, I have the factory Regulator- it was working at the time of replacement- when swapped the same issues occur.
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By Robert301972
I just bought a 2012 can am commander xt Rotax 1000 4x4 EFI. It has 456 Hours on it and 6543 miles on it. From what I have read that is not a hole lot. It will start Right up run for about 5 or 10 sec then starts to stubble and then stalls. And ever time I start it It runs fine for the first 5 or 10 sec. I can Repeat the process for about 8 or 9 times and will will at least stay running. But it does not run fine until it is warmed up. Once it is up to operating temp it runs and drives fine. I have Replaced the fuel pump. Thinking that was the problem but no. I replace the map sensor It wouldn't even start with the new one in. So I put the old one back in and it started Right back up. I Think I had a bad map sensor. I will get a different one. It Is definitely a fuel problem. I just don't know what kind of problem. Here Is my thinking on all the sensors. (Crank sensor) all that does is send a single to the coils. That don't care if the motor is cold or warm. (Map sensor) all that does is measure the temp of the air.(Fuel Injectors) If they were bad it would not start at all. If they were clogged. It would run like shit if it was cold or warm. (Temp sensor) This is the only sensor that tells the computer weather the engine is cold or warm. So what is the temp sensor is telling the computer that the engine is warm. When I first start it. the computer will think that the engine is at operating temp. So It leans out the fuel mixture. So with a lean fuel mixture going into a cold engine. It Is going to stall. I have no scan tool to hook up to the computer. So Please help. I am at my wits End trying to figure this thing out.
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By phxbird57
I picked up a 2012 arctic wild 1000 ho all stock back in May of 2025. Since getting it, I have put on a wench to the front, GMSR radio, Tread GPS, Bead lock rims with 30 inch tires. I did also put longer wheel studs on and new break pads front and back. two flood lights and a rear chase light. She looking good.
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