Jump to content

1100cc Chery Engine - Need Help


Recommended Posts

First I’m going to start off by telling you how the problem started. 

I have a XY Ground Pounder with the 1100cc Chery Engine; I sunk it in a mud hole and had water up middle ways of the muffler; about 10 seconds of being stuck and hitting the gas all of a sudden the motor started making a tapping noise that sounded like it was coming from the head (the buggy never died while I was stuck on the mud hole). I finally got pulled out and had to proceed to drive the buggy out the rest of the trail back to my truck (buggy still making the tapping sound and I lost about half of my power and had to keep the buggy going at around 4,500RPMS).

I got the buggy home and first thing I drained the oil and dropped the pan to find water, dirt and metal shaving in the oil. I proceeded to check the rod bearings and mains; they had very little play but had a lot of wear; I also took the head off and inspected everything and took the pistons out everything looked fine up top. So I ordered a new crank, main bearings, rod bearings, head gasket and bolts; after waiting for a month for the parts to come in I finally got the block and everything clean and put the new parts in and torqued to spec. I got it all put back together and new fluids, plugs and filter put back in and everything aligned and put back in time while TDC. I started the buggy and instantly it’s still doing the same thing; so I took the head off and inspected the springs and valves but everything seems to be good. I also did a compression test on each cylinder with great readings. 

Has anyone ever had the same problem or know anything?


Thanks for taking your time to read. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hydraulic lifters use oil pressure, and should be full of oil to perform properly. It's possible water or dirt got in them and that's what is clacking/causing them to clack.

I know when cars get old and start to click is usually due to the lifters not holding good hydraulic pressure.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with Travis.  Check valve lifter to camshaft clearances with the valve for the cylinder closed (cam lobe not in contact with the lifter).   Dirt may have worked its way into the lifter.  I'm not sure if this engine has hydraulic lifters (I don't know).  If they do, I don't see where shims are needed to adjust clearances.  But a lifter could be binding due to dirt whether a solid or hydraulic lifter.  Were you able to determine where the metal shavings came from?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would still check the valve clearances (cam to lifter clearance).  Can't really tell clearances by looking at the valves.  Lacking any other info that might say otherwise, the intake is 0.18mm/0.007"±0.05mm/0.0019", exhaust 0.25mm/0.0098"±0.05mm/0.0019".  Excessive clearances will cause the cam lobe to "slap" against the lifter causing the clicking/clacking noise.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My theoretical analysis of incorrect valve gap.  I wouldn't say a lot of power if one cylinder, but more pronounced if on all cylinders.  A larger than normal gap will cause the intake valve to open late and close early.  The compression will be a little lower (less fuel/air mixture gets into the cylinder on the intake stoke) and cause some loss of power.  Does the engine othewise runs smooth (not missing)?  Your compression should be near 130 psi at sea level (based upon 14.7 psi atmospheric pressure and a 9.5 compression ratio minus a few pounds due to other factors).

A larger than normal gap on the exhaust valve will also cause it to open late and close early which, in turn, keeps more burned fuel in the cylinder on the exhaust stoke, prevernting a full charge of fresh fuel/air mixture from being fully injested into the cylinder on the intake stroke.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By joe1
      I have a 2019 550  Coleman side by side and it is starting to be hard to crank in the mornings but when it's warmed up it runs fine it's changed plugs filters for the inline gas filter in checkers temperature sensors map sensors and don't know what it could be any help would be appreciated
    • By rsar
      Just got quoted $770 for my Mule's first 50 hour service. Is it just me, or does this seem insanely excessive? I was expecting something in the $350 to $500 range and thinking that even $500 would be a little high. Is dealer service really necessary at 50 hours? At this price I think I'd like to shop around for a mechanic that could do it for half the price. I don't really have the option of shoping around for a cheaper Kawasaki dealer, as there is just this one dealer a reasonable distance away (30 min). The next closest olne is 3 hours away.
    • By Tim Nelson
      Ok guys, my turn...
      Working on my neighbors 2017 Massimo MSU-500.  Initial complaint was it would start and run for about 10 minutes and the just die.  He replaced the fuel pump and still had the same issue.  I stopped over one day to look at it and saw that it had codes flashing on the dash; 505, 336 and 337.  We decided to get a new stator/crank sensor.  Took it apart installed the new stator/crank sensor and nothing.  It won't even start.  I checked the pins on the crank sensor plug and one was in the wrong place, so I repinned it and it still won't start.  I double checked the connectors and all is good.  I checked the wires from the ECU to the coil, good.  It appears to have spark every once and awhile but not enough to start.  I replaced the coil with a known good one and still nothing.  I bought the cables and downloaded the ECU hardware and everything looks good.  I pulled the timing cover back off to check the flywheel keyway, it is good.  I checked the timing and timing chain, good.  I checked the valve lash, good.  I have to put it back together but just wanted to post in case there is something else I should check before hand.  I checked the 9 pin connector and it is clean.  I have battery voltage on the purple wire and pins 15 and 18 on the ECU.  I pulled the air filter off and I am going to put a new plug in it just for the heck of it.  What ECU inputs would prevent it from starting?  Why would it now not start at all after replacing the stator/crank sensor? It has to be something simple.  Any help would be appreciated.
    • By CYJSP2009
      Dear friends, 
      If you contacted casey from Leaf Asia for Joyner parts, please kindly note that if you failed to receive reply from email address [email protected], please kindly send your email to [email protected] or you can cc to ylf0302@hotmail when you send email to [email protected]. Or, you can send a text message to 86-18665726928 with your cell phone number. I will try to call or text your cell phone so that we can continue our discussion. 
      Wish you all a very nice weekend. 
      Casey/ Leaf Asia 
    • Get More For Your Device
    • By shaught66
      I bought my axis a couple months ago and noticed that when I turn my lights on, I have no tail lights, no licence plate light, and one of my high beams doesn't work. I switched the bulb in the headlight and the bulb works so it isn't it. I have brake and flasher lights but not tail lights. I have been waiting for a mobile tech but I would like to drive my utv at night. Any help appreciated. 
  • Gallery Images

  • Create New...