610 mule oil level

[bjones]

Strange issue and it has happened twice.  Changed oil twice and after a while when oil is checked it is always to full on dip stick.  Looks like at least 1/2 qtr.  I have looked at manual and put in amount called for, 1.16 qt without filter.  What would cause level to appear to full.  Thanks

[Travis]

Does it smell like gas?

And you said with out filter, so you don't fill the filter, correct?

Or do you just leave the filter?

[bjones]

Kinda hard to tell about gas in oil, didn't smell to much like it had gas in oil but could be wrong.  Last time I changed oil I didn't fill with oil before installing.   Have had a problem with plug fouling after about 2 hrs meter run time, plug will be black as sut, no oil or gas smell on it just really black.  Wonder if the two are related.  If gas is in oil what could cause this, maybe carb. letting gas flow by.  Thinking of putting in a gas line cut off, that should eliminate that concern until I get it my mechanic to look in to plug fouling.  What you think and thanks for responding.  Mule has 360 hrs light yard use only.

[Nate T.]

Isn't there a transaxle or transmission bolted up to the motor? Could have a bad seal that is leaking fluid through.  

[bjones]

Not sure about transmission but I think it is mated but it has a red fluid in it  80-90 weight and I checked it.  It has a separate reservoir and dip stick.  It was a little low but not bad so I topped it off.  Also changed oil only no filter, took just a tad over 1 qt.  I measured oil drained out and it must have been at least 1.5 qts.  Mule is making oil, LOL.  Will monitor and see if it stays at current level.  Thanks again

[Nate T.]

It's easy to pass fuel through the carb if the needle valve is worn and not making a good seal.  

[Nate T.]

Fuel pump also.  Its vacuum operated so if the pump diaphragm is ruptured it can literally suck fuel into the crankcase.  The good news is there are some really inexpensive fuel pump replacements available.

[bjones]

I have a fairly new fuel pump on it from a previous repair and It maybe the needle valve.  I will monitor the oil level and see what happens.  Thanks again

[Travis]

Be sure to monitor it CLOSELY.

Im sure you know, but gas will dilute the oil, and next thing ya know, (rattle rattle rattle BANG!)  :D 

[bjones]

Yes exactly I'll keep an eye on it, thanks.

[bjones]

Took mule to my mechanic who has worked on several mules in the past and let him see what might be the problem.  I have read on several different places that the mule is bad about fouling plugs for whatever reason.    I will update when  get mule back with what  he found and hopefully fixed.

[bjones]

Got the mule back late yesterday and guy said he cleaned carb and replaced needle valve and set float. Hopefully this will solve the gas  in oil problem.  The fouling of plug was due to  the foam air filter.  It was deteriorated and when wide open throttle it pulled it into paper filter and starved mule of air causing more  gas than air and foul plug.  Haven't had time to run mule any so will report back when I have run time.  

[Travis]

Good deal, hope it solves it.

[bjones]

Update: Have driven mule about 15-18 miles at about 3 hrs on clock and plug looks pretty good and oil level is OK.  Will update as I get more run time, I think it is important to update these post so others can get info for similar problems they may have.  Merry Christmas to all

[Travis]

Merry Christmas

[bjones]

Sorry for late response for some reason I don't get an email , mule is doing good, prob. 7 hrs run time no issues.

[Travis]

Glad to hear it! Thanks for the follow up!

[MrT]

I really need HELP!  My mule started blowing blue smoke and choking up.  Then I found the oil was full of gas.  Had a mechanic look at it.  Rebuild carb (250 hrs) changed oil and filter.  It lasted about 2 hours.  Same thing.  I replaced card, oil, and filter.  Another 2 hours and same thing.  I replaced all filters and fuel pump.  Now, another couple of hours and same thing.  I live in Texas.  Fair winters  This started before the last bad winter.

Somewhere in the middle, someone said add SeaFoam and run it hard for a while.  I tried that too.  I have tried every suggestion anyone has given and the thing just won't run - and always for the same reason.  I've read this from several 610 owners.  My neighbor just sold his because of the same problem.

Kawasaki put this motor in this vehicle knowing the kind of usage it would probably get.  Kawasaki gets no out or excuses.  If this wasn't the right motor for the job, they shouldn't have put it in there.  So the guy that keeps saying "oh, you don't get it warm enough and vapor gets in the oil...." needed reply.  He must work for Kawasaki.  FYI, my other motor vehicles don't get vapor in the oil.

There has to be an answer.  The motor is sound but it has to have fuel and oil to run and doesn't seem to be able to manage that combination.  FYI, the clear cylinder that has been described as the "oil seperater" is clear on my machine and has never showed signs off any kind of fluid.

Is the answer out there?  If so, please share it with me.

Thanks,

Mike 

[bjones]

I am sure you read my comment that fixed my issue. Don't know what to tell you.  Have you taken it to kawasaki deal, would think they have seen and fixed this problem or wouldn't charge you if they can't fix it.  Good luck with it. 

[Travis]

Try replacing the fuel lines as well. Over time they will start to detoriate on the inside. it doesn't take but a small piece of trash to lodge in the needle valve seat to hold it open.

 

A band aid fix to make it usable would be to install a Briggs and Stratton 698183 inline cutoff valve. When you want to use the mule, flip up the seat and turn it on. when you want to stop, turn off the mule and shut off the fuel.