Coleman or Hisun 550 SxS hitch receiver

[Alien10]

My 2021 Coleman Outfitter 550 has a rear hitch receiver.  It works OK for my towing of junk around the property BUT it is NOT welded directly to the frame of the SxS. Instead it fits into a sloppy tube and is pinned in there by a 5/8" hitch pin.  This allows the receiver itself to wobble around to a small degree which can be annoying in some circumstances especially if towing and backing a trailer, it can droop or sway side to side by an inch or two at the ball. .   I cannot figure out why they set up the hitch in this way, and am considering welding the tube directly to the frame as found in most hitch arrangements.

Has anyone else found this annoying and welded the tube up to the frame?  If so, where there any down side to doing so?  (Broken frame etc. ??) 

[Dale Stansbery]

They make a clamp to tighten up a hitch in the receiver. It may work on the other end if there's room. I have the same 550 setup, but can't get to it to look for now.    Amazon.com: Hitch Anti Rattle Clamp for 2” and 1.25” Receivers - Carbon Steel Trailer Hitch Tightener with Rubber Shims - Black Powder Coated for Noise & Vibration Control - Easy Install : Automotive

[Alien10]

I guess that clamp device would work if the hitch's receiver tube was solid and just the draw bar ("Ball Mount" in diagram) was a little loose and rattling.    On the Outfitter 550, the hitch's receiver tube (see diagram) itself is held to the frame by a pin allowing it to wobble around, side to side and up and down.   What I am thinking is to reinforce and weld the hitch tube directly to the frame like hitches on all other types of vehicles.  I can't imaging why they would have designed this wobbly receiver tube this way. 

 

[Jaygyver]

You might look at what the "receiver tube" is blocking before you weld it. If the frame is welded and the tube is loose then there may be a reason for having a pin so it's removable for repairs or replacement of what ever it might be blocking.

 You might try getting a large bolt the size of the pin hole and tighten the hell out of it and see if that reduces or gets rid of the slop and or, like has been mentioned also try to get a few pieces of sheet metal wrapped around the receiver tube and see if that helps too. Take the tube out, wrap the sheet metal around it, drill or punch a hole for the pin then reassemble. I picked up a small roll years ago at one of the hardware stores, Lowes or HomeDepot, etc.

[Joe Breaux]

Dont go crazy with the weld and you can always grind it out if you need to remove it..Dont forget to disconnect battery first..or buy a new one

[Alien10]

Jay: Yes, maybe I'll try to snug up the tube's fit to the frame but leave it removable.  I have some 3/16" flat stock that might do the job by fitting in on the outside of the hitch tube then bolting it in.

Hadn't thought about the possible interference in maintenance you mentioned,  perhaps of the rear differential.  Will have to take a close look at how that might be removed in the future if the hitch tube were welded in there.  Thanks for pointing that out. 

 

Joe:  My wife says I'm crazy but I take your point about limited welding in case I find it has to be cut out at some future point.  And OH YES!! that battery caution is well taken!!  Thanks!!!

By the way, have you ever heard of welding on a frame damaging any of the various sensors on a machine even with the battery disconnected? 

 

Good stuff here guys, thanks!

[Joe Breaux]

Welded on many vehicles without any issues..But it will fry your battery if its connected..pull both terminals..

[Jaygyver]

If there's that much of a gap then you could just tack weld the flat stock to the hitch pin end that slides in once you get the right fit. If it's just a bit too big to slide in then all you have to do is do a little grinding to slim it down. 

[Joe Breaux]

The hitch rattles on mine..I fixed it by turning the knob on my radio clockwise