Jaygyver

Yeah I feel your pain, just the what the hell moments when working on stuff over the years. Just replaced the parking brake ratchet on my old JD-770 tractor, 1 hour to take the step/floor off, take the brake arms off leaving just enough room to pull the pivot shaft off to put the new ratchet on. Had they extended the shaft about a quarter inch and reversed it, maybe 15 minutes with taking a break to sip your coffee to replace it. grrrrr All I can say is keep looking and a part will show up, you may have to "engineer" it but you get lucky once in a while.

Did you ever get it going? You have spark so you're good there. Um. just a thought, like it's NEVER happened to me or anything, but does it have a manual fuel shutoff valve? I would check the fuel line and or inline fuel filter to make sure gas comes out ok. Even with a newer ish machine check the tank for anything blocking the outlet. Can you drain the carb float bowl and see if water or how much gas comes out? If nothing comes out you might be able to "lightly" tap the side of the carb to loosen up a stuck float. If it sat for many months with a half empty tank then water/condensation may have got into the tank. Just something to think about, Always use a gas treatment/stabilizer. Many out there, just pick one. I've used "Sta-Bil Storage" for years and year round as I might use my equipment every day or it may sit for a year or so like my pressure washer. Keep your fuel tank full if they're going to sit for a while and try to use a gas station that is fairly busy as it should have fresher fuel than a mom and pop place off the beaten path. In theory anyway. I use a couple of 14 gal portable tanks to fuel all my non hi-way machines so I don't have to remember if I had treated them or not.

If you haven't already have you tried a search on the web or amazona? Sometimes you can get a hit on 3rd party stuff like that. With a well known brand you would think there should be a few options out there. Like you said maybe look at the newer ones but also look at other brands as every once in a while you'll see them using the same options.

Something that easy is great....have fun Just a thought, could you have put the other fuel filter on backwards, they usually have a flow direction?

Have to go to the tube for small engine stuff myself but, have you made sure the -wires- are ok? Sometimes the connections can corrode all the way down inside the wire. I've had to replace a few over the years on different stuff, you would be surprised on how far down the wire the corrosion goes. Granted the machine isn't too old but you're talking overseas suppliers. There are probably other brands on these forums that have similar issues so if you haven't already you might do a search for the same issues? May not be the same motors but they all basically use the same charging system./ Just throwing my 2 cents worth in.........

Have you tried the Massimo listing to see if any one there can help? The forums here seem to be hit or miss on how busy it is so putting it everywhere you can helps. The one thing you can look into is swapping out the motor with a HF motor or what ever. There are a couple here that have done it without toooo much problems and the utube has a couple showing what they did also.

Have you got it working yet? I was thinking it may be a safety switch that is really doing its job too well. I have a newer-ish LM and the gear select has a safety switch so I can't start it in gear. I don't have an ign/ brake cut off safety switch in mine. Maybe trace out the starter lead to see if it has broken or worn on something and isn't getting the start signal. Key to relay. Connections at the key loose/dirty? Is there power getting to the relay from the key? Key switch bad? As far as brake fluid, it's really not that old but sometimes on older vehicles the rubber hose's going to the brakes can harden and swell inside and block the fluid. American Landmaster website has a lot of their rigs still listed with manuals and the like, you might try downloading them and see if you can find the safety ign cutout sensors and if they have any trouble shooting things to try.

Check your fuel tank for dirt? If it only has issues going up hill then there may be something rolling back into the intake on the bottom of the tank. Over time crud can accumulate when fueling. It clogs the tank outlet then when you let it sit it will leak just enough fuel to start again but as soon as you hit the incline it clogs it back again? Basically it just can't fill the float bowl up before it gets clogged again. Kind of a reach here also, but the float in the carb could be way out of adjustment and only fills the bowl just enough to keep running but when you hit the hill the float shuts off sooner and then starves the motor.

Have you tried their website to see if they have a manual available? Some manufacturers do and some don't. You can always do a search for parts online as a lot of online stores sell aftermarket parts. Their website should have a search for dealer or service center that near you or just ask them how to get a manual.

Hopefully it's as simple as that. Good luck.

If you haven't got it yet, If you're talking about the clutch to the motor, I would just put whatever socket fits the tightest and go from there. Could be sae or metric. I know Landmaster does have a decent online support as far as engine, tranny, motor, etc, manuals. You might be able to find a diagram breakdown? I know there have been a couple of HF retrofits on these forums and Youtube if you haven't looked at them yet, they may have some ideas on other things you might run into also.

Not familiar with it but sounds like the shift cable is out of adjustment? Should be fairly easy to check it out. If you have a clutch make sure the pedal has enough free play. Go online and Log in and double check that they registered it and see if you can download their manual or shop manual and they should have a trouble shooting on shifting issues and how to adjust the shift cables You can also use their "contact us" on their online site and tell them the issue. Good luck....

If you're getting an OEM one everything should fit tight and snug. OEM "should" last quite a while, but -storing- it out in the direct sun or weather will eventually take its toll on anything you get. There should be a few 3rd party sites that will work on yours being a better known brand so look around and you should be able to find a few to look at. The differences may be if your sxs didn't come with a hard top and or doors, you my have to look at the full size top built in to cover it or if it did come with one then you would only need the rear part. Depending on how old the sxs is and what model, it would depend how popular it is as far as choices. On my lesser known LandMaster I just measured the heck out of my SxS, as far as the size of the roll bar and width/length between them and went on the amazon jungle and found a cheaper one that has a 98% fit. Had to do a little finagling but works great. It was just the rear window/canvas part as I already had the hard roof, front window but no doors. As far as wear and tear it seems to be holding up great. We don't get the punishing winters some do but we do get some of the heat in the summer. We do go farting around in the snow a few times when it snows and the clear vinyl seemed to flex a bit still. I store it in a shed when we don't use it so it's fairly protected. To get the OEM rear cover and the OEM doors would have been prohibitive for me money wise. I leave it on all the time as the PNW is finicky on weather and it keeps a bit of the dust from coming back into the cab. In the 4 years we've had it on, the cavas does have a little sun fade where the exposed sides show but so does the seat belts and the vinyl still looks good. Just was it with soap and water or we just hose it down if it isn't too bad.

There are a couple of wiring diagrams online if you google it, and can read them.lol. It looks like your wires are new enough to have readable labels on them still so that's a help. Sorry I can't help more. If you click on "Forums" at the top of the page and scroll down you will see a list of different brands of UTV's. Just click on the HISUN one and ask your question again and hopefully there will be more people there to help.

If you haven't already have you tried going to LandMasters website? They do go back fairly far. Go to the "Owners" area and look for "Manuals and Parts" and should have a list of years, I don't know if the electrical is in there tho.

Could it be an inline fuse or maybe could be on or near the main body of the winch? The best you can do is to trace out the wire and see where it goes. You might try going to the their website and seeing if you can download the manual and such and see if it has the electrical schematics?

Most throttle cables can be adjusted. Sometimes they can stretch a bit or loosen up at the cable lock. The adjustment can be at the pedal and or at the throttle lever on the carburetor. Some you just loosen the bolt holding the outer cable part then pull it until the inner cable is tight or loose depending on what you need. To find out if you have full throttle have someone, -with the engine off-, push the throttle pedal all the way down then see if you can move the carburetor throttle lever any farther, If it can't move it any farther then you have full throttle. If you can still rotate it a bit more then the cable needs to be adjusted. Having a "little" play in the pedal is normal.

Make, year and Model???? Maybe someone has the same model that can help? What ever brand you have, try posting in that part of the forum and you may get more answers. Try going to their website and see if you can download their manuals and you may luck out and find the electrical schematics. My only other suggestion would be to trace the wires out to where they go and you should be good that way also. Good luck.......

Yup, forgot about that, some of them you have to have the seat belts connected. Usually just connecting the seat belts will work or you may have to diagnose it. If you still have your manual it should say if it has it or not as it will say to connect them.

The only thing I figured out, "Dynamic System" means engine/transmission and "Final Drive" is axle/wheel hubs. Be aware the oil weight suggestion is in Cent and not Fahrenheit in that manual. I looked at the manual here also and can't quite figure it out either. It does say at chapter 3.12 (Pages 60/62) in the "what if" section and refers to the "Vehicle section" for adjustments. Which I couldn't find. lol Maybe trace the cable or wire down to the transmission and check out that area? I believe Tractor Supply is one of the dealers and maybe has a better copy or more manuals thru them? I would imagine they have a local shop to do their warranty work and you might see if you can find out who it is and give them a call? Good luck on your mission//////

You know it's sounding a bit like bad gas also , if you haven't already my one other last try would be to make sure you have good gas, wouldn't hurt to drain the old gas and put in fresh new gas. Gas stations have been known to get some bad gas sometimes and doesn't really bother cars as they have 15+ gallons to mix it with and they use it up fairly quick so usually don't even know it. Make sure you get the gas from a busy gas station as they will have the freshest gas just because of the traffic. Gas sitting for 3 months shouldn't normally be a problem. As far as Ethanol gas I have use it in all my equipment from day one and have had no issues related to it in any of them. I've only use a gas treatment (StaBIl-Storage) maybe the last 15+ years but never had problems before but decided to not take the chance and started using it. My only suggestion now would be to do a search for "surging engine" or the like and see if you can narrow it down. There are other makes that have similar problems with different engines but they all run the same. Unfortunately this forum seems to be a hit or miss with help, people having jobs, or busy life in general so keep trying. Sorry I can't help more but if you do get it going please repost here on what you did so others can see it.

Other than maybe the governer needing adjusted I couldn't tell you. I believe the older ones are rated around 25mph so it should go that fast. Are you going by the dash speedo which some aren't exactly the most accurate or a phone app or something. I have a phone app speedo for when I drove my PU that was way off and it worked great. It looks like you have larger tires so that will drop the speedo a bit? It might be the camera angle but the fronts look quite a bit larger than the rears? I know some had different tire size set ups and some were the same front and back. Try going to American Landmaster online and check out the manuals and they should have all the info to double check. I would download everything you can just for future reference. Check the motor and such you have now as most manufacturers will change motors for cheaper prices or when having issues. On my '22 L5W I was able to download the engine, tranny, frame and axles specs. I probably won't split anything but it will give me an idea where or what to look for if anything goes wrong. If you want, check the size of your headlights and checkout the newer LED headlights sizes they use now as they are AWESOME. They would definitely be a great upgrade retrofit.

I would find out WHY it's running rich like that. Changing to a hotter plug can make problems in itself. I have zero knowledge on EFI so can't help you there. If it's still under warranty ask who you bought it from what shop is recommended to work on them if it came from a box store or similar. They -usually- contact a local shop to work on machines they sell. As far as gas, any newer machine made recently -should- be able to run ethanol -mixed- gas (10% or less usually) at what ever octane that they recommend. If it's not used very often even with 13 hours on it the gas can get stale if it sit's for months between fueling. It wouldn't hurt trying a higher octane as the higher ones have more cleaners in it but if it runs fine on 87/88 octane then it's just throwing money away. What worked for ME is Sta-Bil gas treatment but I use the -Storage- version year round as some years I use 50+ gal, (mowers, generator, saws, SxS, etc,) and the next year I might use 10 gal. I have always used ethanol fuel and haven't had any issues, at least so far... I have two 14 gal tanks that I use for everything that is run on gas. Another thing to look at is how busy is the gas station you use as a busy one will have the freshest gas compared to a mom and pop off the beaten path.

Sounds like there is an adjustment somewhere to be made. Either on the cables or linkage on the transmission maybe? May even be a bolt or something on the tranny you adjust in or out? Have you gone online to download the manuals? I would download everything they had just for reference if anything. If there is an adjustment it should be in there somewhere. If not then maybe contact a garage that works on sxs's and hopefully they can point you in the right direction.

I would check to make sure the fuel line is not partially plugged also. Ether at the tank or in the line. Maybe blow some air from the filter back to the tank? I don't know if some of the brands have a screen filter in the tank. With fuel injection it has to have a pump so maybe check that also? And no I Have no idea on a small air cooled engine where or what it uses, lol. If you haven't already done a search here there should be a few of the same problems on other brands that either use the same motor or is similar in issues. You might want to go to Coleman's website and see if you can download the manuals and such to get a better idea on what to look for. Check which motor you have now as company's change out motors often either for better deals or having issues. I downloaded everything from my company, engine, axle, transmission, etc, I may not tear it apart but I can at least narrow down any issues I may have. You're going to get A LOT of other recommendations, I use the Sta-Bil -Storage- version year round as one year I may only use 10 gallons then the next I may use 40+ gallons. I also use a gas station that is fairly busy as then the gas is a lot fresher than a mom and pops off the beaten path. I've used it for the last 20 plus years on everything gas, chain saws, pressure washers, mowers, generators, etc. I have 4-14 gal tanks, 2 for gas and 2 for diesel. I just don't use enough fuel in one year to justify a larger tank and this way as one empties I have the other one to use and can then go into town the next time and fuel it up. For ME I've had zero problems with it.