Best way to stiffen up 2018 Dominator LT 1000 ride
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By Prepper
I have been doing a little research on which engine oil is best for UTV engines. There seems to be some disagreement over using a good quality regular engine oil, and the necessity of using "M2" (or wet clutch suitable) oil. My understanding is the "wet clutch" suitable oil has less friction reduction properties (hence a more responsive clutch with less slippage). While less friction reduction properties would seem to be better for the wet clutch... it would not be best for the internal engine parts like camshaft bearings and other moving parts where friction is detrimental and would lead to premature failure. Some folks swear you need M2 oil, while others say they have been using regular motor oil for years and their clutch is just fine. Could they both be right ???
Any thoughts ?
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By KWinTX
I just bought a new 2024 Hison 550 Stryker 2 months ago. this is the second time I have had this issue. It only has about 20 hours on it. The last time it happened we took it back to the dealer. it was a fuse. Since we live three-hour time driving there and back. I would like to find another solution if possible. I have tried all the fuses that seem to have anything to do with starting. Currently checking the battery. The battery is new. it came with the unit. It is probably 6 months old. the UTV has all power to everything electrical. lights turn signals and radio all work. When trying the key to start . it is 100% dead. as in it doesn't even click. There is a low whirring like the fuel pump is turning on though. The Unit was running and driving just fine. we shut it down for the night. The next morning my wife found it in this condition. Thanks for any Ideas or solutions??? Otherwise, it goes back to the dealer tomorrow. Just hope I didn't buy a lemon. Great little UTV when it does run.😅 anyone else ever have this Issue..?
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By GBarney
Recently bought a 2010 RTV 1100 with bad engine. a d1105T out of a toro 5400 just came available locally. Looking for info on if anybody has installed the turbo version of this engine, what challenges/ problems were encountered, how it turned out.
Looks like nobody has any insight. I will complete installation and report back as to how it went, how it works, and what's involved.
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Jon Spruill
Hey Guys, I have been chasing a stalling condition for about two weeks now. The bike will crank up and idle fine, then after about 20 seconds it will fall on its face and stall. It happens at both idle and while running at various rpms. You can turn the key off, turn it back on and it will fire right back up without trouble. I have verified spark on both cylinders with a spark tester. I have also added an inline fuel filter, and pulled the injectors to verify proper pulse on each. Things I have replaced - (relearn procedure performed after each component replaced): spark plugs, ECU, relay/fuse box, fuel pump, & throttle position sensor - all with no improvement of the condition. The only warning light I get when the condition occurs is the oil lamp. The bike only has 14 miles. I am at a loss and appreciate any help and suggestions! Thanks
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