Quantcast
Jump to content

Coleman UT400; Hisun HS400 model changes...


cliffyk

Recommended Posts

I acquired a Coleman UT400  just after Thanksgiving (2020) and find it to be quite different than most others seen on the web--the most visible difference is that the cylinder slants toward the rear placing the "hot spot" under the bed rather than under the seat (a significant improvement to my mind). THe curious prt of this is that neither Coleman nor  Hisun seem to acknowledge  this major design change. In fact the Owner's manual supplied with the vehicle appears tp haqve been written for a completely different unit--showing the ignition and light switches mounted in the dash (they are stalk mounted on the steering column on mine) and indicates that to change the spark plug requires removing the seat (the cylinder head and plug are under the bed on mine):

Cylinderhead.jpg

I wrote to Coleman and they sent me a what is supposed to be the most recent "UT400-5" manual which is still wrong about 90%+ of the vehicle. Neither the Coleman or Hisun websites are of any use as their content provides no photos and very little information about maintenance or the engine/drive train in general.

Is anyone aware of when these changes were made, or of any sites offering info re: this latest mode?  Currently I'm battling shift cable adjustment to find better and more consistent reverse gear selection.

Mine also differs in that the parking brake is a single caliper and disc mounted on the rear differential pinion shaft (this seems to be a "5 brake" configuration I have found reference to.

Overall it seems well designed and manufactured--the chassis welds are as nice as you could ask for and the castings and  machining are top notch.

Any information or suggestions as to where to look would be appreciated...

TIA

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The owner's manual provided on Coleman's site does not even accurately reflect the machine shown in their video on the same site. In the video the vehicle clearly has a steering column mounted ignition switch--while their manual depicts a dash-mounted switch. Also the gauge cluster shown in thw video isw like that in the machine I have--the cluster described in the online manual is entirely unlike that in my vehicle--the manual provided online by Coleman  is wrong about most everything

gauges/controls from video heading Coleman's site:
Dash-00.jpg

gauges from on-line owner's manual:
Dash-Online-00.jpg

Then there's the whole bit in the manual about using the choke to start a cold engine:
Choke-00.jpg

It's an EFI engine, no choke--I feel sorry for those owners that spend time looking for a choke...
 

  • Confused 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I just picked up a 2020 Coleman UT 400.  Overall, seems like a nicely made machine.  But like CliffyK, the owner's manual is absolutely useless.  my engine is also reverse mounted, i like the instrument cluster, for the most part.  My issue is: in F gear it stalls as I try to accelerate.  I cant make it over 10 mph and 4K rpm.  Like it is running out of gas, or there is a vacuum lock.  I opened the hood and found there is an electronic speed limitor.   Was thinking of disconnecting it to see what would happen but thought I would check with you guys first.   I can get good RPMs in neutral and in R.   At slow speeds in the sticks, F seems to work fine.  Also, I cant the gas gauge to get an accurate reading; I can see gas in the filler tube.  Also, the coolant reservoir was empty.  Next, there are two big black tubes on either side of the crankcase not connected to anything.  Part of emissions control system?  Very odd.

Advice/comments???     Had polaris quads for years, very different

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It will not go over 10 mph unless the driver's seat belt is buckled. Or the "safety" interlock defeated in some manner. Removing the limiter module does not work. You can buckle it behind your back but that's a bit uncomfortable. You'd think they would mention this in the manual--wouldn't you?

I 3D printed some tabs that mimic the seat belt male connector.to trick the foolish thing

SeatBeltThing-00.jpg.a1cecd35ee02c5ff1eb2e0792c7f361a.jpg

It is 45 mm x 20 mm x 3 mm, just a clone of the seat belt connector. I have made these for my other vehicle's as well. I had open heart surgery a couple years ago and cannot wear a shoulder belt.

If you send me a SASE I can mail one to you--I  will send you a PM with my address.

The normal level of the coolant t reservoir is quite low in the tank--you have to peek in around the framework to see it. The black tubes are exhaust outlets for the generator and CVT air-cooling.

My gas gauge works fine, I have seen reviews on he Tractor Supply web site reporting it did not.

-cliff-

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Big Brother is always watching out for us!

Here's what it actually looks like, "unplugged"--quite unobtrusive when "plugged in", just the red tab shows :

SeatBeltThing-01.jpg.78f7f837324c22e40ebaa52d045a36d7.jpg

 

I am doing well, thank you for asking... The good part is I have an official document stating I cannot wear a seat belt.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 3/15/2021 at 1:32 AM, cliffyk said:

It will not go over 10 mph unless the driver's seat belt is buckled. Or the "safety" interlock defeated in some manner. Removing the limiter module does not work. You can buckle it behind your back but that's a bit uncomfortable. You'd think they would mention this in the manual--wouldn't you?

I 3D printed some tabs that mimic the seat belt male connector.to trick the foolish thing

SeatBeltThing-00.jpg.a1cecd35ee02c5ff1eb2e0792c7f361a.jpg

It is 45 mm x 20 mm x 3 mm, just a clone of the seat belt connector. I have made these for my other vehicle's as well. I had open heart surgery a couple years ago and cannot wear a shoulder belt.

If you send me a SASE I can mail one to you--I  will send you a PM with my address.

The normal level of the coolant t reservoir is quite low in the tank--you have to peek in around the framework to see it. The black tubes are exhaust outlets for the generator and CVT air-cooling.

My gas gauge works fine, I have seen reviews on he Tractor Supply web site reporting it did not.

-cliff-

Hi Cliff, I'm happy to hear you are doing better after your surgery.

I would be interested in obtaining a seat belt eliminator as well.  That is awesome that you make one.  Can you let me know where to send a SASE and the cost please?

Thank you for offering to make these for folks.  It is appreciated.

Sherri

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...
  • 1 month later...
On 3/15/2021 at 10:55 AM, meneb2 said:

Unbelievable.   I have never heard of such a thing.  I will try it and keep you posted.  I would be interested in your defeat device.  I hope you have recovered from your surgery and are feeling well.     Mark

Take the seat belts & attach them to each other, a criss cross system & they work fine & do NOT bother your back because they are together in the middle of both seats.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By buckrub
      Hey guys! Newbie here. I'm an old man who's better with plowing a mule (4-legged kind) than these newfangled beasts. I, and a friend of mine, just bought new Coleman sxs and are having to finish the assembly. I've been reading on this site and I'm falling on the mercy of you experts. The only way I'm an expert is that an "ex" is a has been, and a spurt is a drip under pressure. LOL First off, the 2 buggies have no ignition switches. They seem to mount on the dash, not the opening in the steering wheel shaft cover, so we ordered new ones that are supposed to fit. They are 8 inches long, and have a 4-wired white plugin which is slightly rectangled when looking at the end of the plug. The trouble is there's nothing to plug into. There is a three-wire grey plug close enough to reach the four-wire plug, but of course, they are not compatible. 
      Secondly, the blinker, light, ect. unit on steering wheel just spins around when touched. I see no way in heaven or earth to secure it. I've looked at a diagram on the Powersports site, but can't detect how it mounted. Fellows I'd be so grateful for any help with this. Me and my mule will even plow your garden for free, for your help. LOL 
       
    • By aefron88
      I've seen a number of requests for the location of all the grease points on these machines, and there is no definitive list in the manual. This covers the UT400, but other Coleman/Hisun models should be similar.
      Tools:
      First to grease your machine you need a grease gun and some NLGI#2 grease. You will find it helpful to buy a needle attachment as pictured here, due to poor clearance on some of the U-joints. The rest of the zerks use the standard attachment.
       
      Technique:
      Wipe any dirt/grease off the zerk before greasing to prevent pushing gunk inside and causing excess wear.
      Push the grease gun on the zerk at a straight angle and give it a few pumps. You will hear an oozing noise or sea grease coming out from the outside of the greased area when you've put enough grease in, a few pumps should be plenty.
      If it's just oozing around the zerk you either don't have a good seat with the gun, or the zerk may be rusted and the check ball frozen. Try seating it again and regrease.
      Wipe up any excess grease when youre done to prevent making a mess.
      Greasepoints:



      Rear A-Arms are greasable with the wheels on from the rear, I took the picture with the wheel off for easier visibility

       
      That's it. All other Hisuns should be substantially similar.
    • By ETHIEL
      Spark plug keeps fouling. after 10-15 minutes of running any ideas what to look fore 
    • By moonrover
      Mine is overheated/burned/melt at connection with its wire connector, parts are ordered to replace both them.  This seems to be a common issue, and some of you already replaced it. I right now just connect the wires, so the fan runs  all the time whenever the initiation is on, but it's better let fan runs as needed with a working temperature sensor/switch. 
      Question: Does some coolant come out by removing the switch/sensor from radiator?  Or, is the threaded hole all the way inside radiator?   If the answer is yes,  I want to drain or extract  some coolant to make its level below the sensor before replacing it, so I don't make a mess with coolant spilled out 
      Thank you.  
    • By Hugh
      My 2018 Hisun sector crew engine cut off after about 15 minutes run. There is no indicator of what is wrong, no error code just die and won't restart until it cool down. I notice that the fan is not running but the temp indicator is on low temp, no overheat indicator. I checked the radiator fluid, it is cool to touch.
      Cooling fans are working, I can hear it running once awhile if I can get the engine warm up enough.  Thank you for all the help.
       
      Hugh
×
×
  • Create New...