Quantcast
Jump to content

Lube Rack& pion steering


flatbed
 Share

Recommended Posts

Notice that my steering was getting stiff and hard to turn so i pulled the cover of the rack & pion (6 allen head screws and you have to loosen the small screws to get the boots out of the way). Once it was off i could see the rack was very dry and starting to gull the cover. Once the cover is off you can pull the rack up and out with it still hooked to the tie-rods, You will see the gear in the slot. I spread some grease on the gear and in the slot, also some grease on the rack. You can see i also put zert fitting on the cover so i can grease it without taking it apart . If you do not want to do this you need to aleast pull the boots back so you can get some grease on the rack. This is something everyone that has a trooper needs to do.

2149669010104282158kQHhWl_th.jpg 2734587900104282158jxUyTy_th.jpg 2672825280104282158kyHmpz_th.jpg 2185755440104282158mudMiZ_th.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Notice that my steering was getting stiff and hard to turn so i pulled the cover of the rack & pion (6 allen head screws and you have to loosen the small screws to get the boots out of the way). Once it was off i could see the rack was very dry and starting to gull the cover. Once the cover is off you can pull the rack up and out with it still hooked to the tie-rods, You will see the gear in the slot. I spread some grease on the gear and in the slot, also some grease on the rack. You can see i also put zert fitting on the cover so i can grease it without taking it apart . If you do not want to do this you need to aleast pull the boots back so you can get some grease on the rack. This is something everyone that has a trooper needs to do.

Very good advice, I have had these freeze up in the winter from getting water inside.

I always keep them packed with grease.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good advise. I have done mine a bit back. My steering rack was quite sloopy and caused not only extra slop in the steering but it clunked fairly loud when in rougher stuff. To fix the problem, I made up a new top plate. You can see what I did at:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Joyner-Troo...sspagenameZWD1V

Forgive me, this isn't an advertisement but rather sharing ideas that hopefully help our machines. I feel a little stupid for not putting the greese fittig on it as flatbed sujested. I know better but I guess it's old age creeping in. I'll be adding the fitting shortly.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lenny, I thought of putting a teflon wear plate in, but i thought i would still have to grease it because of the gear. The rack is going to want to wear on the corners, top and bottom. Nice piece

flatbed, I'm not sure you would want teflon. It is slicker but I beleive on the softy side. UHMW polyethylene is probably a better choice as it ireal tuff and still quite slippery. The advantage of poly or teflon for that matter is that grit will embed into it rather than wear parts away. With the boots, you shouldn't be getting dirt contamination. On my machines, I always used greese with poly. I'm not sure it is really necessary but I like to think it's a little better when greesed unless it's exposed to contamination.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

When I took my steering rack off today to install an electric assisted one, I discovered that the stock rack does have a greese fitting on it from the factory. It's in the middle on the bottom side where we can't find it unless we stand on lour head. It would be nice if JoynerUSA would follow these post. They could have told us there was a greese fitting and where to look for it.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By Osney
      Interesting experience coming down the hill today, as something in the steering rack seems to have sheared off. It works partially, and at low speed, but is basically gubbed. Finding parts in the UK is an utter pain - there doesn't seem to be any good independent suppliers. I guess I'll have to go to the dealer, pay a small fortune and wait a year for it to arrive. Between this, worn out suspension bushes and the ongoing battery issues, my initial enthusiasm for the machine is beginning to wear thin.
    • By Earthscum
      Hi, I'm a mechanic and am at a loss for a customer's 2021 UT400. This thing only got used for the end of the summer, only has 3.3 hours on it.
      So far I've found:
      No start - starter switch works, relay in relay/fuse box clicks. Solenoid is operating as it should, no signal to  solenoid to start. Starts and runs when I hard-jump the solenoid.
      No F or R lights on dash - N lights up, and goes off when shifted into either gear
      No brake lights - tested switch, it works as it should
      No turn signals
      Parking brake light is on - switch is working correctly, doesn't change status
       
      All connectors are secured, no wires look out of place. I have an incredible dislike for HiSun equipment. Every one I've dealt with has been full of gremlins. Has anyone else had any issues like this? Would this be something wrong with the dash? Or the relay/fuse box? or both? I don't want to contact Coleman and have them send a bunch of stuff that won't fix it, especially with how long electronic stuff takes to get these days. The last warranty I did for them was a go-kart that shelled the drive shaft bearings and it took 4 months for them to send us the parts.
      Any help or knowledge would be much appreciated!
    • By Howard Dare
      The steering delivery tube running from the pump to the steering controller below the steering wheel has fractured due to rubbing on a sharp steel flange.  I would like to replace the tube and I am hoping someone reading this has actually done the job.  To get to the point that I have identified the problem I have had to do a great deal of disassembly.  The manual implies I must take off the roll cage, the rest of the body, the steering wheel and the dashboard.  Is this really necessary?
      The manual also suggests bleeding the steering without detailing how this is achieved.  Does anybody know how to do this?
    • By 2scoops
      So, I have found a very possible and very interesting engine swap after looking for quite awhileBTW I am still looking and researching. I present to you the 1.4L cylinder out of a Chevy Cruze.
      Let me first caveat this by saying I have NO problem with my Chery engine. But it seems to have only so much potential and there is not enough technical support and R&D out there. Considering there are thousands and thousands of Chery 1100s out in the world (mostly in other countries) we should have WAY more options than we do.
      The problem I DO have with the Chery 1100 is the transmission it is bolted too. Even if you BORE, Supercharge, Nitrous this engine the tranny just too weak. I would be more inclined to do motor work if there was a stronger gearbox we could strap to it. My experience has shown me the output shaft is weakthats a stock motor. If you power it up what is next to goprobably clutches.
      NOW--Why the 1.4L turbo out of a Chevy Cruze?
      ITS AN ECOTEC!
      They are plentiful (fleet car motor) and can be had for relatively cheap ($500-$2000 depending on condition and if it comes with or without the turbo).
      They are compact and lightweight--all aluminum block and cylinder head.
      They are decently powered (138hp) and even better torque (148 ft/lbs)!!! Most smaller engines, to include ATV/UTV gas powered engines, the hp numbers are always higher than torque numbers. I care about TORQUE! In this case torque is the king over hp and it peaks at 2500 rpm!!! This motor was specifically designed to produce low to mid-range torque.
      Also, keep in mind factory engines are designed to be economical. This engine could be easily tuned or a bigger turbo installed to go well over 200 hp.
      Now, the most IMPORTANT partputting the power to the ground:
      The stock Cruze comes with either a six speed manual or an automatic/hydramatic six speedwith manual shift capability!!! Now, I know what you are thinking. We need a low first gear. Now, I cant find anything online about the Troopers first gear ratio. I called Joyner and I am waiting for a call back. If anyone knows please post. My best guess is its around 5:1???
      More intriguingfirst gear in the manual of the Chevy Cruze is 4.27 which is quite low in comparison to most cars being in the 3:1 range. EVEN BETTER the automatic comes with a first gear ratio of 4.58 to one. That is the lowest factory first gear ratio I have found in any FWD 4 cylinder car so far. If you know of one lower please share. Now that may not be low enough for us, but when you keep in mind WE ARE DOUBLING OUR TORQUE it should offset the need for a granny gear. Last, it comes with the manual shift option. This means you can just push the lever forward to shift and back to downshiftNO CLUTCH!
      Now this is just a birds eye view of this potentially sweet drivetrain swap. Outside of the normal custom intake/exhaust, mounts, rewiring of any engine swap here are some of the bigger things that need to be figured out/answered:
      How do we lock up the differential in the gearbox differential like the trooper is? The trooper has basically a spool (fully locked). In RWD buggies Joyner turns the motor and tranny 90 degrees and opens the differential (I hear some models are full locked).
      How would auto/hydramatic transmission handle the stress of offroad?
      Will technology get in the way of making things simple? Nowadays if you disconnect a seat belt sensor the car wont start (exaggerating herea little). How hard will it be to simplify the ignition system and get the electronics for the transmission of in harmony?
      Interested to hear your guys thoughts and concerns
    • eManualOnline
    • By mammothdecks
      Hello everyone at UTV Board!

      We're writing this post to introduce ourselves to the forum. If you haven't heard of us, we manufacture premium quality truck decks and UTV rack systems in Armstrong, BC, and Kamloops, BC. For all of those wondering, we have nothing to do with Full Lotus. They went out of business years ago. We have adopted the same sleek design but made some significant improvements where it was needed. Although it may make our ATV/Sled decks a bit heavier, we are now using schedule 40 and schedule 80 aluminum pipe. This is 4 to 8 times as thick as Lotus or most other competitors use, and these products are now made to last a lifetime.
      Please feel free to comment or message us if you have any questions.  2022 Customer Brochure (Digital Quality).pdf
      https://www.mammothdecks.com

       

       

  • Gallery Images


×
×
  • Create New...