Quantcast
Jump to content

flatbed

Lube Rack& pion steering

Recommended Posts

Notice that my steering was getting stiff and hard to turn so i pulled the cover of the rack & pion (6 allen head screws and you have to loosen the small screws to get the boots out of the way). Once it was off i could see the rack was very dry and starting to gull the cover. Once the cover is off you can pull the rack up and out with it still hooked to the tie-rods, You will see the gear in the slot. I spread some grease on the gear and in the slot, also some grease on the rack. You can see i also put zert fitting on the cover so i can grease it without taking it apart . If you do not want to do this you need to aleast pull the boots back so you can get some grease on the rack. This is something everyone that has a trooper needs to do.

2149669010104282158kQHhWl_th.jpg 2734587900104282158jxUyTy_th.jpg 2672825280104282158kyHmpz_th.jpg 2185755440104282158mudMiZ_th.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Notice that my steering was getting stiff and hard to turn so i pulled the cover of the rack & pion (6 allen head screws and you have to loosen the small screws to get the boots out of the way). Once it was off i could see the rack was very dry and starting to gull the cover. Once the cover is off you can pull the rack up and out with it still hooked to the tie-rods, You will see the gear in the slot. I spread some grease on the gear and in the slot, also some grease on the rack. You can see i also put zert fitting on the cover so i can grease it without taking it apart . If you do not want to do this you need to aleast pull the boots back so you can get some grease on the rack. This is something everyone that has a trooper needs to do.

Very good advice, I have had these freeze up in the winter from getting water inside.

I always keep them packed with grease.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good advise. I have done mine a bit back. My steering rack was quite sloopy and caused not only extra slop in the steering but it clunked fairly loud when in rougher stuff. To fix the problem, I made up a new top plate. You can see what I did at:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Joyner-Troo...sspagenameZWD1V

Forgive me, this isn't an advertisement but rather sharing ideas that hopefully help our machines. I feel a little stupid for not putting the greese fittig on it as flatbed sujested. I know better but I guess it's old age creeping in. I'll be adding the fitting shortly.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lenny, I thought of putting a teflon wear plate in, but i thought i would still have to grease it because of the gear. The rack is going to want to wear on the corners, top and bottom. Nice piece

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Lenny, I thought of putting a teflon wear plate in, but i thought i would still have to grease it because of the gear. The rack is going to want to wear on the corners, top and bottom. Nice piece

flatbed, I'm not sure you would want teflon. It is slicker but I beleive on the softy side. UHMW polyethylene is probably a better choice as it ireal tuff and still quite slippery. The advantage of poly or teflon for that matter is that grit will embed into it rather than wear parts away. With the boots, you shouldn't be getting dirt contamination. On my machines, I always used greese with poly. I'm not sure it is really necessary but I like to think it's a little better when greesed unless it's exposed to contamination.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I new i was using the wrong word, we use the stuff on out trailers, it holds up better than a brass bushing in our rollers for picking the trailers up, these big cranes even use in it in there chivs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I took my steering rack off today to install an electric assisted one, I discovered that the stock rack does have a greese fitting on it from the factory. It's in the middle on the bottom side where we can't find it unless we stand on lour head. It would be nice if JoynerUSA would follow these post. They could have told us there was a greese fitting and where to look for it.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By 2wpuller
      Does anyone know if there is a interchangeable steering rack that would work from other brand of sxs
      Are a rebuild kit to replace the bushing.
      Mine is a 2015 Dominator 800 2×
      The steering rack outer bushings are gone .
       
    • By Kelly Stump
      Has anyone rebuilt a head on a joyner trooper 1100? Where can i order those parts from?
    • By kenfain
      Just picked up a new overhead gun rack. I had to look around quite a bit, because I didn't like the design, nor the reviews of most. They typically rely on a spreader type design. That type of design causes a somewhat loose fit. I needed a more positive fit. So I went with the seizmic 07301

    • By farmcrew
      I recently got a 2007 Commando 650 C4 and I'm in the process of going through it from stem to stern. The AZ sun has really taken it's toll on all the plastic and rubber. One CV boot is torn and the others are probably not far behind. Most of the rubber on the control cable ends are on bad shape and the steering rack boots are almost completely disintegrated. Anyone have a source for the steering rack boots?
    • By Breff21
      Hey guys so i’m new to this whole UTV community but im going to attempt to design and make a UTV from scratch, im 18 and have done quite abit of mechanical pieces, ive made a set budget for 650€ for all the parts and engine not including steel, and so far ive decided i wanted it to be 2 seater have front suspension and rear axle suspension, go atleast 40mph and be very lightweight but stiff design. 
      Although im finding it very hard to find parts online that will ship to me within my budget, ive decided on a 420cc 15hp lifan engine as my base and am trying to find a 40 stage torque converter although its not going great but that aside, is this a good engine for what im trying to achive? Will it get me to my speed goal?
      Also im having a bit of a dilemma with the wheels as there far more expensive than i thought, im unsure rather to go with a full set of tyres and rims already assembled second hand 21/10/10 rear and 20/8/10 front for 125€ or
      or for a good second hand set of 26/12/12 rear and 26/9/12 front for just the tyres at 100€ and then to try and find cheap rims somewhere is another problem. 
       
      im unsure weather or not id really need the bigger 26 inch tyres as 12 inches is very wide and heavy although i see thats what the most popular size for UTV are?
      will the bigger tyres be harder on the engine? Which would be faster? 
      If anyone with more knowledge to this could help itd be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


×
×
  • Create New...