Outfitter-UT400-ShiftCable Adjustment

[cliffyk]

View File

Outfitter-UT400-ShiftCable Adjustment

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I got this from Coleman, detailed instruction re: shift cable adjustment...

I forgot to mention you will need two 22 mm wrenches for the cable lock nuts. I hacked up a couple of cheap "quality tools for less" combination wrenches using a cut-off wheel in an angle grinder:

Kind of like "flare nut wrenches", good for light duty like this.

 

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• Submitter
  cliffyk
• Submitted
  03/19/2021
• Category
  Coleman

 

[cliffyk]

FWIW, I did not find this to work. I had been having problems with delayed shifting into reverse (whizzing, clanking and finally clunking into gear) and followed the instructions to the letter to find it would not shift into reverse at all.

So, as reverse gear was my problem I "reversed" Coleman's procedure (no pun intended)--I used reverse as the basis point: altering step 5. to push  the shift linkage away from the engine (reverse), and then doing all the rest but placing the shift lever in the reverse position to adjust and reconnect the cable.

This worked, but i still tweaked it a bit to get it as smooth as i wanted. I jacked up the back end (wheels off the ground, parking brake off) and alternated between forward, neutral and reverse, spinning the driver's side back wheel  and tweaking the shift cable adjustment until it was obvious each gear (F & R) were ebgaging as positively as they could. Never had a problem with forward, just reverse.

I next started the engine (still jacked up, p-brake off--be CAREFUL HERE!!!) and did some final tweaking (1/4 to 1/2 turn of the adjusting nuts) 'til I was happy. I now have nice, positive shifts into reverse--no whizzing, clanking or clunking...

[Rob DeVido]

mmmm...thanks Cliff, I'll be attempting this tomorrow...hope it solves my issue. I sometimes have it happening in forward and reverse, but mainly reverse. I'll give Coleman's instruction a try first, if that fails I'll try your way, either way I hope if fixes the issue....fingers crossed .  Thanks for the update!

[cliffyk]

After using the Coleman position, but using reverse as the basis, point it was better--however it was getting the back wheels wheels up and final tweaking that git it dialed in. The setting is much more finicky than I would have expected. Before pestering Coleman for their recommendation I had devised my own  procedure that worked OK using the neutral gate s ground zero and adjusting the cable til forward and reverse were equally offset from neutral--, but using reverse seems to work better. 

I always find it helps to know what you are doing--this is the transmission configuration (note the components are not shown in their normal alignment, this is a common annoyance in Asian power transmission diagrams):

The main (input) shaft is at the top--it is powered by the CVT driven sheave and drives the middle (counter) shaft in two ways. One is a chain drive (reverse)--'tother is a gear drive (forward). A sliding cogged shifting collar is what connects either the reverse driven chain sprocket or forward driven gear to the counter-shaft. It is the lateral position of that collar that we are adjusting.

Here is the entire forward/reverse sprocket/gear/collar assembly:

 

The collar is splined to the shaft,but free to move laterally. The reverse sprocket and forward gear are free to rotate on the shaft until engaged by the collar's cogs. Note that he cogs on the "forward" end of the collar are angled outward at their end, while the "reverse" end cogs are straight (or less angled). I guess this was done to ensure forward was a good solid engagement. However it seems to be what makes reverse engagement fussy.

The reverse driven sprocket rides on a roller bearing on the shaft, the forward gear does not. this is solid design as the reverse sprocket spends most of it's life rotating in the opposite direction of everything else. In "forward", the forward gear rotates  with the shaft--no bearing is needed.

For completeness here's the reverse chain, a solid, robust so-called "silent" chain:

 

[cliffyk]

I think I've got it--drove 10 miles or so today, using reverse 4 or 5 times--only once did it whiz, clank, clunk. I have found that shifting while the vehicle is just slightly in motion, or has been stopped for a bit (15-30 seconds),  makes it better--also, shift to reverse and wait 5-10 seconds before hitting the throttle...

[Rob DeVido]

I went through the process  and tried it the Coleman way , and while it was better , it skipped out a couple of times . So I was thinking about what Cliff  did and  I went at that way , the linkage was off, okay that explains the problem,  so I adjusted it again and it was waaay better , a little tweak and problem gone , she runs great again!!  
Thanks for all the great detail you provided Cliff ! Couldn’t of done it without it . 

[cliffyk]

Great to hear it worked out!

-cliff-

[Noahj]

On 3/19/2021 at 4:58 PM, cliffyk said:

View File

Outfitter-UT400-ShiftCable Adjustment

---

I got this from Coleman, detailed instruction re: shift cable adjustment...

I forgot to mention you will need two 22 mm wrenches for the cable lock nuts. I hacked up a couple of cheap "quality tools for less" combination wrenches using a cut-off wheel in an angle grinder:

Kind of like "flare nut wrenches", good for light duty like this.

 

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• Submitter
  cliffyk
• Submitted
  03/19/2021
• Category
  Coleman

 

I have a ut400 as well having the same troubles. Is there any way I could get a pic or copy of the adjustment procedure starter to finish. The adjustment seems to be very finicky. 

[Wally]

How do I get a copy of this service bulletin?

[Alex]

1 hour ago, Wally said:

How do I get a copy of this service bulletin?

 

[Julie Shafe]

I have the UT400 and cannot get it to go in to 4 wheel drive. HELP!

 

[will87]

I have a problem with mine stalling when shifting into gear. Took the cable off and jacked up rear end and it still stalls. Oil is full anyone else have this issue or know what would cause it. I have replaced the entire clutch system from wet clutch outwards