Quantcast
Jump to content

2015 Hisun Forge 110 No Spark, No Injector Pulse. Please HELP! Willing to pay $100 for help assisting with a diagnosis!


Recommended Posts

I have a 2015 (EFI) Hisun Forge 110 atv that has no spark or injector pulse.  I have replaced the Stator/pickup coil and ECU and still can not get anything.  I have brought it to 3 different Hisun Service centers and no one can figure it out.  The last service center said they can get a very "weak" spark but that is about it.  I consider myself pretty knowledgeable about engines but this one has me (and 3 Hisun service centers) stumped.  I just uploaded the service manual for this machine.  Any help or advise that you can give is going to be much appreciated!

110 ATV Service Manual.pdf

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • AdamG changed the title to 2015 Hisun Forge 110 No Spark, No Injector Pulse. Please HELP! Willing to pay $100 for help assisting with a diagnosis!
  • Replies 23
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

So I figured out why I could only go 10-12 mph in forward.  I called "Motorcycle Doctor" out of Missouri and a guy named Craig is an expert when it comes to Hisun anything.  They also sell Hisun parts

Posted Images

I would look for a short to ground.  

Also, check coil and pick-up. I know u replaced trigger, check it anyway!

Primary coil resistance 
0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
• Connect the multimeter(Ω × 1k) to the
ignition coil. 
Tester (+) lead Orange lead terminal
Tester (–) lead Spark plug lead
• Check that the secondary coil has the
specified resistance.
Secondary coil resistance
6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)

Link to post
Share on other sites

. Pickup coil resistance
• Disconnect the A.C. magneto coupler from
the wire harness.
• Connect the multimeter(Ω × 100) to the
pickup coil terminal. 
Tester (+) lead Green/White terminal ①
Tester (–) lead Blue/White terminal ②
• Check the pickup coil for the specified
resistance. 
Pickup coil resistance 
459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
(White/Red – White/Green)

Link to post
Share on other sites

If those two components pass, check resistance in spark plug cap and replace plug. Check for spark again. 

If all that is good, check fuses, main switch, wiring connections for entire ignition system.

Most importantly,  check the battery for a minimum of 12.6 volts!

9.6 volts while cranking!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Do a simple voltage test on the DELPHI ECM.....BLK connector.....as follows:

Pin 18......+12 Vdc....Always Hot...Battery

Pin 15......+12 Vdc......ONLY with ign key ON.  0 Vdc with key OFF.

Also power grounds on BLK Pin 2 and GREY Pin 9.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies @Savage3 and @Ben1098.  I checked everything and the only thing out of spec is the pickup coil.  I am getting a reading of 119 OHMs when the specs say it should be 459-561.  The problem is that it is brand new.  I also tested the old one (the one that was on when it was running) and it has virtually the same resistance (116 OHMs).  AC voltage coming out of the pickup coil at cranking speeds without the spark plug in is 3.5 volts.  Not sure what it is supposed to be.  Could a bad rectifier cause a no spark/injector pulse issue?

I am at a complete loss.   I live in the Dallas, Texas area.  I would be willing to pay someone to diagnose.  

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like you have a short somewhere. Difficult to help with electrical problems without performing the tests. Follow the service manual step by step. The problem will be small and most likely due to corrosion, broken wire, or bad connection. 

Make sure your battery is good, very important! They wont run in many cases due to something as simple as low voltage.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I did some testing last night and got some "weird" readings.  I tested the pickup coil from 2 different places; directly from the plug (got 119ohms) and at the end of the wiring harness that goes into the Delphi ECU.  The 2 pickup wires that go to the ECU are shielded with a grey exterior and foil looking interior (assuming for more insulation)  When I tested the resistance just before the ECU (where the pick up wire go into the ECU) I was getting anywhere from 8-10 milliOHMs.   I was assuming I should have the same resistance when checking just before the ECU but the resistance was drastically reduced.  I then tested the resistance of the shielded pick up wires and there is no resistance at all.  Not sure if this all makes sense and you are tracking with me.  I can take pics to better explain if needed.  Not sure if this is a red flag or normal.  Thoughts?

Link to post
Share on other sites

The pickup coil signal wire is shielded due to ECU input can "see" other "trash" like the starter current pulses.

You have a smashed cable which shorts signal to GND....this the mohm reading you get.  Shielded cable is toast....cut back the cable to leave two (2) pigtails.  Connect the open ends....ECM input and the pickup coil output(s).  Go to electronics store a buy a chunk of shielded cable...take sample along.....SOLD ER all 4 joints...route new wire run far away from starter HOT and the 3 PH stator to Regulator wires

Link to post
Share on other sites

@Ben1098  Thanks for the reply.  I unplugged the shielded wires from the ECM and pick up coil (completely isolated) and tested each shielded wire individually and they both have 0 resistance.  It just does not make sense why the difference in resistance when it is plugged into the pick up coil yet there is no resistance when it is unplugged.  

Link to post
Share on other sites

Pickup coil resistance
• Disconnect the A.C. magneto coupler from
the wire harness.
• Connect the multimeter(Ω × 100) to the
pickup coil terminal. 
Tester (+) lead Green/White terminal ①
Tester (–) lead Blue/White terminal ②
• Check the pickup coil for the specified
resistance. 
Pickup coil resistance 
459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
(White/Red – White/Green)

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a new 200 ohm coil, I tested that with 3 meters. All three were at 153, 159, 151. 

I also put it on and cranked machine, the voltage was in spec.

So, resistance can be off a little and the coil still works. I'm not sure it can be off as much as yours.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Tried again....no answer....try [email protected]

Guessing what your question would be:

450 ohm vs 210 ohm coils.  Seen both used.  The 450 ohm had failure problems..thermal good/bad self healing.  Tech info...the output is the real object.  Internal construction better magnet and heavier wire/less turns (lower resistance) but gives equal pulse output.  Chino service manual...copy of Yamaha Rhino SxS clone copied Yam specs and NOT what was in machine.

Pickup coil.  Output is signal and signal gnd taken off BOTH ends of the coil windings.  Tech.....the pulses due to make/break of magnetic circuit are + and then - repeating as the flywheel rotates.  Coil can be wired wrong.....as in backwards....resulting in a timing error.  Most ign modules trigger off + edge.  Thus timing will be off.

Shielded wire consists of insulated signal wire(s) wrapped with a foil shield and then a bare (drain) wire wrapped around foil...all with a outer insulation jacket.  You application has a single center wire (signal) and the bare drain wire is signal gnd.  Smash the cable and the foil/bare wire will short to the inner signal conductor.  I've seen a wire tie too tight break down the insulation on well used machines.  In your case

1. Pickup R was "correct" at output at engine.

2.  Measured at Delphi ECM very low R...SHORT.....due to insulation failure in S cable.

3.  Measured R in both center and drain wires and OK.....these wires are still intact....will both be low R.

4.  The internal short will kill the weak pickup signal...ECM no timing signal....dead.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Gorj
      Do not know if any of you Hisun E1 owners have  had issues with the parking brake pedal  not returning completely, thus preventing you from moving forward or reverse.   I had this issue and even sometimes when going over rough road the parking brake pedal would move down far enough to shut off power.  Local  dealer said no one had complained about that issue and they had no fix.  So decided to correct it myself. I installed a return spring on the parking brake arm and it stopped the problem!

    • By CanyonCarver
      Not sure if this has been discussed before but here it goes; 
      If i lower a utv and put some more grippy/less of roading tires, can it handle like a go kart? Especially the 4-seater ones?
       
    • By Travis
      I think my stator (alternator) may be giving up on me... Barely maintaining a constant 12.5 volts.. Checked all connections. No corrosion or melted spots.. I unplugged the leads that come from the Stator at the engine, both are only putting out around 12 to 13 Volts V A/C.... Whereas it should be 24VAC+ at idle.
      Manual calls for .2 to .4 ΩOhms maximum across the leads, My meter was showing .7Ω..
       
      EDIT 8:00PM
      I scraped off a bit of the insulation behind the stator wire plugs to rule out a bad connector (not likely, being both of them) and from the copper wires to ground, still only 12 volts AC or so... Can't complain,  it did it's job for 20 years.
      And this is for you Joe Breaux "AT LEAST IT AIN'T A MASSIMO"

       
       
    • By calebcobb1994
      There is no spark to plug and no power to fuel pump. I can run a direct ground to fuel pump to get power but still no spark at plug. Any ideas to what could be wrong? thanks!!
    • eManualOnline
    • By Aaron
      Does anyone know if you can convert a Hisun Sector 250 into basically a golf cart by removing the bed and replacing it with a rear seat kit?  Do you know if this is even possible to do given the location of the exhaust?
  • [[Template core/front/widgets/relatedContent is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]




×
×
  • Create New...