2019 Coleman 550 Starting troubles

[Markky]

Having starting issues on my 2019 Coleman 550. Ive gone over quite a few things including the following

• Changed fuel injector
• Checked wiring harness for splits or damaged wires
• Confirmed compression
• Confirmed fuel pump operation
• Confirmed new injector is operational

Anyone else have any suggestions. I'm getting an error code "e 118 coolant/oil temperature sensor circuit high voltage or open"  also. Would this keep the machine from starting?  Thanks 

[mcraigchr]

15 hours ago, Markky said:

Having starting issues on my 2019 Coleman 550. Ive gone over quite a few things including the following

• Changed fuel injector
• Checked wiring harness for splits or damaged wires
• Confirmed compression
• Confirmed fuel pump operation
• Confirmed new injector is operational

Anyone else have any suggestions. I'm getting an error code "e 118 coolant/oil temperature sensor circuit high voltage or open"  also. Would this keep the machine from starting?  Thanks 

Gosh, that's a tough break for such a new machine.  Coleman's carry a 2 year warranty.  Assuming you bought it new, you should still be under warranty.  Might be worth looking into because this does not sound like an easy issue to solve.

Craig C.

[Markky]

Unfortunately I didn’t purchase it new I bought it from an older gentleman that barely drove it. I only have probably 3 hours on the machine myself. I believe it has 70 hours now which seems pretty early to be having serious issues.

[Jon roberts]

I would check electrical connectors on it. The Chinese are not known for doing a good job on their electrical wiring. 

[Ben1098]

Go to Engine Coolant Sensor on top of the head.....will look like a mini spark plug.  Single wire.  This runs to ECM.  The sensor is a special resistor that changes resistance value.....most are NEG....meaning the value goes down as the probe end in the coolant gets hotter....and of course the reverse also for R high at low temp.

Test time DVM   DC VOLTS. Pull and probe the ECT plug....KEY ON.  You should have +5 ish Vdc....source is ECM signal input that has an INTERNAL resister in series to +5 source.  The DVM "sips" current....thus NOT A LOAD. 

Next....DVM  R range.  N to head body and P to sensor tip connection.  You should have some resistance (don't  have specs) say cold 10K to 100K.  An open sensor pellet will be INFINITE...same as leads apart.....which is bad.

 Your message stated the Error Code was high voltage or open circuit.  With out a load....Meter doesn't  count.....you get +5Vdc from ECM at ECT sensor connecter.  If ECT is good (a resistance load) AND wiring is good, the voltage will be less than +5 due to voltage divider action.  The changing sensor will change the inputs voltage....calibrated to temp to control fuel delivery.....Like the TPS, a swing from 1V to 4V.

That's how it is supposed to work.  Your problem is one of 3 items harness/connectors/ECT.  If no +5 at connector, check at ECM....if good,  find the open ckt.

The open circuit makes the ECM think it is at the South Pole @ - 40 deg C....dumps extra fuel for a COLD start.  Check spark plug for sooty black or wet electrode....clean and dry or start with a fresh plug because fouled plugs may look sorta ok, but no or weak spark.  CHOW

[Markky]

Can’t thank you guys enough for the responses. Going to tear it down again tomorrow and check all those connections. I’ll let you know how I make out.

[Markky]

So after a few frustrating weeks still no luck. Tested the sensor and seemed to work out with the directions above. Decided to change it anyways with no luck. Checked the whole wiring harness again and found no obvious breaks or faults. Should I just keep throwing parts at it or any more ideas. Appreciate any and all the help.

[Dan B]

Seems you have all that is needed to start the engine except you didn't say that you've confirmed you  have a spark.  Is the fuel any good from sitting around so much.  Could water be in the fuel system?  Remove an injector, and try to caputre a small amount of fuel in a container as you crank the engine.  Take that fuel sample outside to see if it will burn (it can't explode).  Temperature and humidity swings can cause water to condense in a fuel system.  Still can't completely rule out an electrical issue with a ground.

[Markky]

Thanks Dan, sorry I should of added that there is good spark, fresh plug also. When I first bought the machine I ran it for about three hours and put fresh gas in it. Also added a fuel filter as I read many suggestions to do so. The injectors new. It could be a grounding issue and I’m just looking in the wrong places. If you have any other tips or tricks that would be great! Thanks for taking the time to read this and help it’s much appreciated 

[Ben1098]

Quick and dirty checks.

Do a compression test....thumb over spark plug blow off test.....should pop off good.  Next spark and at correct timing...should spark when thumb is blown off on compression stroke.

FUEL. Pull injector connector.....this keeps injector from squirting  fuel.   Give a couple shots of starter fluid into air box filter.  If engine is solid, spark good, compression good, motor will run a couple seconds until fluid is burned off.  This means a fuel problem.  40 PSI pump pressure req'd.  Pump runs with KEY ON for a few seconds to build up pressure....stops until engine cranked over.  Injector ECM electrical pulses to fire injector.  Remove injector from intake and check for fuel mist.  These checks should guide you in the right direction and narrow down problem instead of throwing parts at it.

[Wolverine]

Having the same 118 trouble code with mine. Is 11 months old, under warranty, and has not run in 6 months. No service centers within 400 miles of me.  I can "force" mine to start by doing the following; get a 6 quart sauce pan, fill it up full of water and bring to boil. Lift the bed on the unit and turn on the ignition switch. After the "prove-out" has completed on the instrument cluster look at the temperature gage. It should have 1 small bar at the bottom to indicate it is reading. Slowly pour the hot water over the coolant temp sensor on top of the water pump housing while watching the temp gauge. When you see a second bar light up on the gauge. Very quickly get in and crank it over. You will have to feather the throttle a bit to get it to fire. When it does fire up keep the rpm's a bit over 1500 for a few seconds. The temp gauge will drop back to 1 bar almost instantly after it starts. After it starts sounding a bit better (about 10-15 seconds) take it up to around 3000 rpm and hold it there until the temp gauge shows 2 bars (about 5 minutes). Then it will idle (it will be a bit erratic but will stay running) It will stay running as long as 2 bars are showing. Don't shut out off or let it cool down until you are done using it. I've been fighting with Coleman for 6 months trying to get mine fixed with no progress. Wish I would have never bought it.

[Markky]

Sorry you have the same issue. I wish I had better news about mine but I’m still dead in the water myself. I will be trying the boiling water at some point though just to hear it run again. This project has kind of taken a back burner as I’ve almost run out of ideas. If I ever figure it out I will update here! If you end up hearing a fix I would love to know! Thank you!

[Markky]

Quick update to my current progress. As usual I fizzle out on this project quickly and but it on the back burner until I manage to get the time (or patients) to tinker with it. Today I pulled the motor and started tearing it down. My first discovery was the timing chain was so loose it was crazy. When I turned it over by hand most of the time the chain would just skip right over the sprocket. This makes more sense now because I have spark, compression, and fuel it just is way out of whack timing wise. I plan on continuing the tear down tomorrow and pray I dont find anything else. The chain on the oil pump is very lose too which leads me to believe that the chains they put in these machines are less then desirable. Hopefully I can replace with a better quality timing chain and oil pump chain. Tomorrow I will remove the head and inspect the valves, cylinder head, and piston. Thanks everyone for there help and hopefully this helps someone else.