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By joe1
I have a 2019 550 Coleman side by side and it is starting to be hard to crank in the mornings but when it's warmed up it runs fine it's changed plugs filters for the inline gas filter in checkers temperature sensors map sensors and don't know what it could be any help would be appreciated
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By Jacob E freeman
I have a 2018 cub cadet challenger 750 I bought brand new almost 2 years ago the first month I had it the exhaust broke and burnt the spark plug wire in two that was a recall so the dealership installed the new one it had a different design and it bolted up to the bottom two plugs below the spark plug the dealership said they had to Adjust the exhaust valves I get the machine back thanking everything is good now wrong not even a week after I get it back the timing chain tensioner comes apart inside the motor I take it back to the dealership They put one on I get the machine back thanking everything is good but then just like before not even a week goes by when I was riding the Machine automatically quits going come to find out the wet clutch was burned up the primary clutch head stripped off of the splines I get that fixed and then it overheats I take it back they bleed the air out of the coolant they bring it back to me the same day that I get it back it overheats again I take it back they temporarily fix it again just enough to let the warranty run out and now the machine has been to multiple different mechanics I have had them try to bleed the air out they have stood it up on its end I have had the water pump changed I have had the fan hooked to a switch so I could leave it on all the time but still almost 2 years later not even 200 hours on the machine and I cannot ride it The dealership will not take it back as a lemon I have tried I am at my wits end I have no clue what to try next
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By rmissildine
Hello all. I'm new to the forum and have read all the posts I could find concerning the 550 Mule, so far no one with my problem. So, I'll give it a go and hopefully get an answer.
I got this mule about three years ago, had to do some minor repairs, and it's been a great machine. Last fall, I noticed an oil leak coming from the left side around the crankcase cover. I was able to slow the leak considerably, but it still leaked. I never had the time to tear it down due to work. I retire in March of this year and decided to fix it with a new cover gasket. I ordered a new gasket and crankshaft seal and while waiting for them to arrive, I began the tear down and cleaning of the mating surfaces. Got the seal and gasket installed and the cover back on and torqued. Decided to crank it up and let it idle a bit to check for any oil leaks before I put the converters back on. Fired right up, let it idle for about 10 minutes, no leaks. I'm happy at this point...
Next day, installed the inside converter cover, new belt and converters, not the outside cover though. I wanted to see how the new belt was going to work out. I still had the rear end jacked up so it wouldn't move. Guess what, it wouldn't start up. Cranked over like always, just wouldn't start... Now I'm bummed. So I start checking gas, spark and everything is good. Even tried a squirt of starting fluid, and it did fire a couple of times but no start. Now I'm even more bummed. Time for a break.
Now I've worked on everything from small engines to tractors and have never had this problem. After a little thought I decided to run a compression test. The repair manual lists 115 - 178 psi as the correct range, I had 30 psi!!!!! What in the world happened over night. I did spray a light oil into the cylinder and it came up to about 60 psi but that was all I could get. I checked the valve clearances, their good.
Sorry for the long post, but I hope someone can point me in the right direction cause I really like this little machine.
Thanks for your help,
Roger
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By Tim Nelson
Ok guys, my turn...
Working on my neighbors 2017 Massimo MSU-500. Initial complaint was it would start and run for about 10 minutes and the just die. He replaced the fuel pump and still had the same issue. I stopped over one day to look at it and saw that it had codes flashing on the dash; 505, 336 and 337. We decided to get a new stator/crank sensor. Took it apart installed the new stator/crank sensor and nothing. It won't even start. I checked the pins on the crank sensor plug and one was in the wrong place, so I repinned it and it still won't start. I double checked the connectors and all is good. I checked the wires from the ECU to the coil, good. It appears to have spark every once and awhile but not enough to start. I replaced the coil with a known good one and still nothing. I bought the cables and downloaded the ECU hardware and everything looks good. I pulled the timing cover back off to check the flywheel keyway, it is good. I checked the timing and timing chain, good. I checked the valve lash, good. I have to put it back together but just wanted to post in case there is something else I should check before hand. I checked the 9 pin connector and it is clean. I have battery voltage on the purple wire and pins 15 and 18 on the ECU. I pulled the air filter off and I am going to put a new plug in it just for the heck of it. What ECU inputs would prevent it from starting? Why would it now not start at all after replacing the stator/crank sensor? It has to be something simple. Any help would be appreciated.
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By Rufus Fruge
Hi there…one of the few disappointments with my new side by side is the low beam lights. They seem to be little more than driving lights. Is this a common complaint amongst owners? Rufus
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