Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have no power to my front & rear parking lights, which means no turn signals either…checked bulbs, all good, fuses good..could it be the flasher relay (module)….also, should I have power to all fuses in fuse box when ignition switch is on?

Posted

When the key switch is on you should have power to all the fuses.

You didn't specify a model. This is the lighting circuit diagram for the 400. The 550, etc should be similar if not identical.

 

If you don't get power to the fuses, and the batt is good1146788444_Screenshot_20220705-072724_SamsungNotes.thumb.jpg.fae7388ef22130ead10f93cd3f90cccb.jpg the keyswitch would be the first thing to check.

Posted

Getting power to some of the fuses, not all….my fuse box and fuse layout in my manual is not like what I actually have, so it’s hard to say which fuse sends power to each component…it seems that everything is functioning except the parking/turn signal lights front & rear….headlights & brake lights work, horn, gas gauge & parking brake warning horn all working as well as accessory outlet…very puzzling…where is the key switch physically located….I can’t read elec diagrams well.

p.s.   It’s the 400

Posted

According to the big wiring diagram for the UT400 "F2" controls  Brake/turn lights/parking drive alarm and speed limit.

So if your brake lights are working that fuse should be ok.

So from the fuse power goes to the flasher module, into the turn signal stalk and out to the flashers. Those wires are dk brown and dk green. The feed for the parking lights comes from the combo stalk switch but goes out the blue wire.(

The only place where this is all common is the black wire that runs from terminal 1 on the big connector on the fuse/relay box (see pic attached). That should be the ground to the turn/parking lights. I would check the continuity from the pin on the relay/fuse box to ground and also check with the lights switched on and key on and that wire disconnected there should be 12v between that wire and ground.

20220708_053126.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Topics

    • By rdc
      I posted this before , but I had the year wrong. The part I need is for a 2014, I don't know what all years will work, but I need the 2 bearing style with the spacer in the middle. It looks like this pic. If anyone has one I'll buy it rite away. my email is [email protected]. Thanks, RC

    • By rdc
      Hope I posted this in the right place. Looking for the left side shaft carrier where the rear bearings go for an 1100cc sand viper, I understand an 800 cc carrier will also work. I need the old style two bearing with the spacer in the middle, the new style with just the one wide bearing wont work. If anybody has one I'll buy it right away. my email is [email protected]
    • By paul allen
      right front axle cv joint boot keeps getting torn up from the inside out....the stock one was damaged from a stick...i have replaced  the axle 4 times with aftermarket axles that fit fine..after 4-5 miles of riding even on grass.the outer boot get torn up from the inside out...all 4 brand new alxes...bearings are fine nothing bent everything fits just fine....nothing seems to be binding.....any thoughts?????
       
       
      thanks...pa
       
    • By Garjess
      My rtv 1140 won't turn over.  I've jumped the neutral switch, and the brake switch, and checked the ignition switch. I'm not getting any power to the trigger wire on the starter solenoid.  It starts fine with the key on and putting power to the trigger wire on the solonoid.
      Does a 2010 RTV 1140 cpx have a starter relay? 
      Does anyone have a wiring diagram?
    • By Sidewinder
      All mid 2008 through 2014 Polaris RZR 800 series have a big problem with the rear differential pinion nut backing off, allowing the pinion gear to shoot into the rear differential, destroying the rear differential. This has happened with machines with as little as less than 100 miles on them! Reports indicate that there are no problems, nor warnings, until the rear differential grenades, locking the rear axles solid! This requires the machine to be lifted onto a trailer, to be transported for rear differential replacement, as it destroys the case. After failure, rear differential replacement can be quite expensive: labor alone can run from $800-$1200 and a new OEM Spicer rear diff, if you can find one, can run from $1700-$2500! So, if you own any Polaris RZR 800 series between the years of 2008-2014, I recommend that you do this repair before further use of your machine. personally, I have grounded my machine until it can be done. Please check the online post for your own awareness.

×
×
  • Create New...