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Kawasaki Mule............................

While I can fully understand Joe B's unhappy experience and his recommendation to go elsewhere, I believe that his unit is/was a HiSun. Those units have been shown to be very suspect, and Massimo was way undercapitalized to support the dealer network and their customers. On the other hand, my 2020 T-Boss 500-F (with the steel box w/dropdown sides) is a Linhai chassis. Except for a few design quibbles (front hood access, oil change mess, inadequate hitch mount and excessive reach with the steel box, overly bright display at night, etc), I have found that the Linhai version to be a solid, reliable, entry-level SXS. I've had the steering wheel loosen up (6 Phillips head screws) and the windscreen brackets needed realignment. I also replaced the 300 CCA U1 Lead acid battery that was OEM, with a 350 CCA AGM U1 battery. That solved the occasional cold start stall and kick back against the starter. The OEM flooded lead acid battery is just too small. Works OK in my lawnmower, though. 😒 I use mine for general banging around my land that has somewhat rough terrain, and I am also equipping as a fast-response vehicle to fight remote wildland fires. Bottom line is that I wouldn't ever consider buying a used 2019 or earlier Massimo or any other brand that uses the HiSun chassis of any vintage. 🏁

There's no brake switch. The shift lever just operates a lever on the engine case, purely mechanical.

The needle adapter shown in the first post makes it so you don't need to be straight perpendicular like with a traditional grease gun coupler, You need to make sure you're buying the blunt type like that, there are also sharp needles meant for piercing rubber in ball joints, etc. With the blunt needle adapter you basically shove it into the check ball. It does make a bit more of a mess than a normal coupler, but it does fit. The driveshaft zerks are certainly have limited clearance. The other option is a small grease gun that just fits on top of the zerk without coupling. You can see one pictured in the "rear driveshaft" pic Something like this

DO NOT BUY MASSIMO OR ANYTHING HISUN... you have been warned. You will regret it. They are Chinese junk..

Yes, please see what you can do. Now, ads are popping up on top of posts and I cannot shut them down, so I can't even read certain posts. I click on the X in the corner and the ad changes with an arrow in the opposite corner. I click on the arrow and the previous as appears.

DON'T BUY A MASSIMO! The quality is soooo bad! I have a 2021 550 TBoss new when inventory of the decent brands was at rock bottom. I paid new what used decent brands were selling for. I quickly learned why. The quality is soooo bad. Out of the gate I had to make numerous adjustments to get it to run, drive and operate smoothly. Couldn't tow anything because the hitch receiver snapped off, the cheap plastic guards in front of the suspension parts broke off in no time, flooring cracked after a bit of use, windshield is now un clear and unusable after cleaning a couple of times (yes, I was extremely gentle), And all of the above and more on a machine I barely use (very low miles) I would love to sell it and buy a good one some day but I don't think anyone would buy it. Listen to all of the advice above and stay away from this brand!

Make sure it's not in 4-wheel drive, it gets much stiffer to turn on pavement or solid ground. Also, make sure your toe in isn't way off.

1. No not reliable. Yes, bad seal that leaked oil on drive belt, replaced seal and belt and misc clutch parts. Shift ball detent, both when new. Actually parts have not been the problem, quality is the problem. 2. Have not got rid of it, no one wants it. 3. Kubota Sidekick 4. Damm near impossible, some parts are on ebay. Mine is a MSU500 bought new from Tractor Supply.

Normally yes it touches coolant and you'll need to drain below that level and refill after replacement. When you refill the radiator, these things can be a bear to bleed all the air from the cooling system. Any air left will lead to more overheating issues. There's a plug on the right side of the engine where the rad hose goes in that you can partially loosen while running to help bleed air.

Try playing with the adjustment. The 500/550's don't have the same shifter cable/lever issues as the 40's but the cable can stretch over time. If you're getting grinding and popping out of gear it could be worn clutch dogs too, which require some effort to replace as they're internal to the transmission. If you're having shift issues and grinding it's best to be proactive about adjusting because it does damage the dogs over time, and eventually will just pop out of gear at will once the dogs are rounded enough.

That's correct on the MA oil. Some of the info in that post is wrong. There are two things moving the power from the engine to the drivetrain: first there's a wet centrifugal clutch, from that drives the primary cvt pulley, which has a belt to the secondary. The friction material on the clutch is prone to slipping with use of additives "energy Conserving II" API rated oils, which are used in most car oils. Cars use a dry transmission, most motorcycles use a wet clutch where the clutch plates are bathed in oil. The MA rated oils don't have that additive which causes wet clutch slip issues. See attached picture of the friction disc of the wet clutch. Yellow stuff is the friction material. Once it starts slipping you get rapid wear, and also a lot of crud in your oil. Generally speaking conventional vs synthetic, synthetic oils have more uniform molecules and hence lubricate better and resist more wear and tear before going out of spec. They also typically have better additive packages, because the manufacturer expects them to be used for more mileage. Conv vs synth it makes little difference, and I would lean towards changing oil early on these machines being a large single cylinder ("thumper") they get more wear and tear than a normal car engine, and also I've read a fair number of timing chain stretching issues, which is typically an issue with accelerated wear of the pins holding the chain.

Oh Joe.....ever since you bought your Massimo you've been suspicious 🤣🤣🤣

Pink Floyd quote/reference. i am looking for a starter for my 2004 800 Renegade and apparently the place I dealt with before is no longer in business. Any help? Thanks in advance, Kenny

The major issue with Joyners is scarce parts support stateside. John Deere uses a CVT on their 825i - no gear shift cable that I know of that works on the Renegade. The shift cables have different part numbers for the same cable. One has a eye on both ends of the cable P/N: S800.05.02.02-R2 or 02.S800.05.02.02 (two different part numbers, same cable). The other cable has a threaded nut on one end, eyelet on the other P/N: S800.05.02.01-R2 or 02.S800.05.02.01 (two different part numbers, same cable). If you can't find someone who can build you a new cable, maybe, just maybe Joyner-USA can help. if you can find and contact them. They're in Mesa, AZ. Their phone number to their address at 1050 West Main in Mesa 480-882-9612. Their Riverview and 18th Pl addresses are way out of date. I was able to get two tires w/rims and two headlights from them in stock. But that was a few years ago.

Hello i have a 2022 Massimo t-boss 550. And it suck’s! I’ve blown 3 clutches 1 was my fault. The starter bearing (clutch). And now I’m dealing with timing and valves. Once you get the bugs out and know what it can’t do it’s ok! And no service. The one person that did help me at Massimo Canada got fired. Lol I’ve been fixing mine since I have no money to buy anything else, by the time I’m done with it it should be ok. I hope lol good luck!!