Jaygyver

Have you tried going to Landmasters web site and seeing if the diagrams are there. I know they go back in years a bit but not sure how far they go. On my newer '22 L5W they have everything for it. The wiring, chassis, motor, etc. that your able to gander at. Other then that you'll probably have to follow the wires from the ends to the dash and see where they lead. You said you took pictures so you should be able to narrow down where the wires came from on the old engine and transpose those to the new engine. Different motors but still have the same connections.

Did you figure it out yet? You didn't say what you tried before buying the battery. You might try the easy things first, check the battery cables connections going to the relay and going to the starter from the relay, clean and tight? Check the cable to frame or ground areas Make sure they are clean where they are bolted on and tight. Do the head lights come on but nothing from the starter? Then you are getting voltage for the lights but not enough amperage to the starter. Bad connections or could be a bad relay, blown fuse, bad starter or the key switch is bad or wires loose. If no lights and nothing from starter, then you will have to check every connection from the key to the starter. All you need to do is just make sure you have power going to the each component. Power to the key, power form the key to the relay, etc,.

What kind of light socket does your existing headlights have? You might look around at LED lights as they make them for just about every socket you can imagine. As has been mentioned they also make 3" pod like light housings to 3'+ long bar lights. Be aware tho, you have to read the description good as they sell "Spot" lights, (they have a slightly narrower beam) and "flood" lights (have a much wider beam). And each company has their own interpretation on narrow or wider beams. And they have a combo lights that have both, all in one. HF usually carries some LED pods like lights similar to what you can find on Amazon so you can see whet they look like. Mount them on your bumper and or roll bar. The good thing about LED lights is they also take less voltage to light so much easier on the charging system. They do get hot contrary to belief so most have a built in heat sink to take care of it.

I've never had that luck. It either didn't work or was outright bad before I started looking, lol Glad it was that easy.

If it's doing the exact same thing with the new carb then you might make sure the gas filter is clean (and pointed in the right direction) and make sure the gas lines aren't partially plugged. You can just blow into the line from the filter going back to the tank and it may unclog anything at the tank. It should feel the same as blowing thru a straw into water, maybe a bit more effort seeings how the line is smaller. You might be able to hear it bubbling in the tank. If not, grab your old carb and clean the jets out and check that the float is at the right level. It may just need cleaning from gas getting old and the inside passages contaminated over time. Unless the new carb came from the dealer not all carbs you buy online are very reliable. Have you tried adjusting the new carb?. If you're not a carb person then you should be able to take it to a dealer or shop and see if they can rebuild it for you. You might have to fine tune the idle screws if you just take the carb in but if you take the whole vehicle in they can have everything adjusted for you. As been mentioned, have you checked the air filter to see if a mouse made a nest in it and blocking the airflow? You might be able to go online and download the service manual from the manufacturer of the engine and chassis.

He did say in a later post that the new battery is a 385cca so in theory it should be enough. It runs and when it does start he said it ran great, so that there says it just in the starter area, battery, starter, etc. If it's always been a hard starter then got worse with time kinda wonder if the manufacturer just under specked the starter or it missed the QC guy when they made it. I don't have a Coleman so I didn't really check the forums if anyone else mentioned theirs being a hard starter so not sure if it's a thing or not. I have a 500 engine so it should be similar so I'm curious what size my battery is but not enough to take off a dozen screws or so to take the hood off to see what it is!

One thing I would also do now while the SxS is newer is go on their website and see if you can download the service manual for both the engine and the SXS. Some of the manufacturers tend to drop support after about 10 yrs or so. They're usually free. Has it always been a hard starter even when new and just got worse? Maybe the manufacture just put in a bit too small of a starter and it and just got worn out from the hard starts? If you get the new starter and the old one turns out to be good then at least you have a spare. I would still look in the forums for the compression problem, it's worth a shot. If it's not the starter then It just seems like that could be it. Basically all it does is automatically release some of the compression so they can put a smaller starter on it and make it turn over easier. Kind of a stretch here, but, you might not realize it but if you take a lot of short trips then turn it off the battery may not have time to recharge back up again. If it's been a hard starter all this time then maybe it took its toll on the battery and or starter? I'm not sure how good the charging circuits are on these. I lucked out as my SxS has just enough room to fit in my shed and my little solar trickle charger just reach's a window. I don't use mine everyday like you do but would be good for the times you don't? I have AC trickle chargers for the equipment in the shop not near a window and solar chargers in all my outdoor cars, trucks, mowers, etc, that may sit for long periods.. Anyways that's all the knowledge I have, good luck.

What I've read on some issues, and I don't remember what makes or motors they were, that some engines will get such a high compression that it is really hard to start. Something about a compression release that goes bad. It automatically releases some of the compression just before it starts so it will turn over faster. Kinda like you can do manually on some of the middle and larger chain saws. if it has the rope starter still on it can you turn it by hand? It should be hard but doable if normal. If you take the plugs out and try to start it normally does it turn over really really easy? I have no idea on the smaller engines and how they work exactly so can't explain it. There are similar topics on different makes that go into more detail. Maybe do a search on "Hard starting" or something like that? If it's an everyday user I would think about finding a dealer that will check it out for you. There are just so many cheap parts out there that it's getting harder and harder to fix stuff. Ask TSC as they may have a dealer that is "sponsoring" the SxS like some of the box stores do with their equipment. Sorry I can't help more, I just cruise the forums every so often to get an idea on if my Landmaster ever goes poo poo.

Nice

Help them out here......... What issue's are you having exactly?.......What have you tried or done? What's your exact model?..... Not familiar with Coleman myself but some brands may have similar model but one may have a carb and the other may have EFI. (Fuel injection) Did YOU charge the battery just to make sure it was charged?..... Some times they will lose their charge when sitting on the shelf for long periods and the person behind the desk doesn't always know when it was put there and assume because it's on the shelf everything is honkey dorey. Does the engine turn over but not start?...... Battery is good. Do you hear a "clicking" sound when you try to start it?....... Either the battery is mostly dead or both the battery cables may need to be cleaned up on both ends. Is it completely silent when you turn the key?......Battery is dead or both the battery cables may need to be cleaned up on both ends. Starter relay? Do your lights come on but it won't turn over?......You have enough voltage for the lights but not enough amps to start it, both the battery cables need to be cleaned up on both ends. Check the connections from the battery to the starter relay, the bolt may have loosened up there also. Do you have something to jump start it to see if it will turn over? Try going back to TSC and look at another one and see if they will get the model number off the battery. Some of the numbers/letters on a battery are the code for the size/dimensions of the battery and the others are the amperages of the battery.

Well kinda need more information if you haven't got it going yet. The manufacturer was renamed to American Landmaster a few years ago so you MAY find your work manual on their site. Some things to look at? Do your headlites or dash lites come on? If so then you may have a bad ground or bad hot connection, either at the battery or at the frame or starter connection. Assuming the battery is charged. Take the battery cables off and clean them then the other ends of the cables at the frame and starter and clean them also. You would be surprised how little corrosion it takes to reduce the voltage. If nothing comes on then I would think a fuse could be bad, or a worn or cut wire somewhere? Does the engine turn over by hand? Have you tried using the hand/rope starter to turn it over or start it. Is your switch ok? Do you get power at the starter from the switch? Starter may be bad? If you tried everything else maybe have a parts store check the starter?

A little late but if you can get the model/ID name off the battery they can then get you the right size/rating. Or just measure the battery or box it's in. Your gonna have to take it out anyway to replace it so I would see if they will recycle it for you or, at least where I live they will pay me around $5.oo or so for the old one.

Wish I would have done that years ago for some of my vehicles and toys, after looking for manuals for some of my older equipment and manufacturers no longer having the manuals I try to get them as soon as possible now when I buy stuff.. Have fun

Yeah, sometimes you think you're going crazy when they do that. Makes sense tho, instead of making the person wait for parts just rob the demo and hope you don't forget to order a new one. That was great of them sending them to you. I would still see if their website has your work manual to download, save more head aches down the road.

You say it's a Demo unit so I would call the dealer who sold it to you and ask them where it is and also what's up with the issue. You don't have to trailer it back to them just ask some questions. Mine didn't come with them so can't help you there but, in theory, it should be under the dash or the hood to keep it out of harms way. Sometimes they will be in the fuse panel also. -Usually- you can go to the manufacturers web site and down load the manual and such. good luck on your mission.

Could it be a plugged fuel line? Maybe crimped? Have had that happen before. It will fill the bowl up but it barely passes gas so it won't keep up once the bowl is empty. Could be at the tank end also. My two cents anyway, good luck.

A bit late but, If you're buying it from LM then more than likely it's fairly expensive just like every other dealer. If you already have the part # of the starter, find out the model motor it has also then you can go on the amazon or e-bay and should find it cheaper or may even find an aftermarket. Just search for something like "Starter for (your motor)". LM has used different motors over the years. LM has parts diagrams for your whole machine on their website. Not sure how far it goes back but if you have an L3 then it should be on there. I just down loaded a bunch for my L5W a few months ago myself. You might look around your town and see if there are any places that can rebuild your old starters?

Just for the halibut if you're still having issues, Check your battery cable connections on both ends, frame and battery. May want to slightly loosen the bolts just enough to rotate either end a little then tighten them back up again. Do the same with the start wire. Worse case would be the starter going out? Rare but does happen.Have a garage check it out?

Well that goes with common sense too I guess. In a Hiway vehicle yeah, 5 or 10 psi below the maximum is usually more than enough. But then again, if you load it up for a trip across the country you should definitely raise the air up a bit. In general air it up for the usage you're driving most of the time and the tire wear should be good. I used to drive quite a few miles so I kept an eye on the wear. With my PU and trailer when loaded I did find that it handled much better at the max rated psi. Off road smaller UTV and the like usually the tires have a much stiffer sidewall anyway and it's not like you'll be doing 70+ MPH with it for hours on end.

Yup, as been mentioned it's way too high. They're pretty stiff sidewalls so you can get away with the lower psi. I think I only use around 6 or 8 psi in my Landmaster and seem to be wearing ok. Be aware tho that most tire manufacturers state the max weight when stating the air pressure. For example, in a car you have passengers in all the seats and a full trunk. Most people don't drive year round like that. Unless I'm doing heavy work I rarely have the max pressure even in my tractors. The low profile tires on cars are a bit more finicky tho, just have to experiment.

If no single tire locks up I would try taking the master cylinder off and flushing it out with new brake fluid. Just let it squirt out and see if it got clogged. If you’re handy then I would take it apart also and check if the seals are still good. It would be odd if all 4 caliper/slave cylinders would all be bad at the same time. Just for the halibut I would also make sure the main brake lines haven’t been crunched by seeing how much brake fluid comes out of each wheel? Do they bleed the about the same amount of fluid? That’s my guess, good luck…..