ksimpsy

Princess auto has wireless winch remotes on for sale right now $70 or so. I am considering grabbing one.

too bad about the trailer Lenny. I sorta did the same I started last winter building a trailer for my Rhino almost got it done then i found the trooper and just had to have it. so of course i now need to stretch my trailer out 3 feet. arrggg.

Hey Lenny, the only reason i want the 12.5's is for flotation in mud and muskegg. i almost have my power steering kit done so im not worried about hard turning. as for the bumps kicking the wheel a steering damper would take care of that for you. Kevin

wow that looks good! did you say you were going to cut the floor boards and outside corners back? because i have been looking at doing that so i could put 31 x 12.5 r15 tires on. any how, nice. Kevin

Sounds awesome. I have thought about some sort of reducer planetary system also or a multiplier but i was thinking of putting them inline with the drive shaft my problem is i have no idea how to make something like that so i would have to look at what is already out there. another idea i had was to get new ring and pinion gears cut. I haven't looked into any of this either, one thing at a time eh?. Kevin

Im having trouble getting my trooper to kick over when it is cold. at first i thought it was due to an under powered battery so i changed it out wit a 650 cca battery. still dosent want to start when it is cold it just clicks. so then i put a heavy duty disconnect in because i thought it was drawing power when off, still didn't fix the problem. so i am wondering if there is a relay in the fuse box that could be getting weak or is there just the solenoid on the starter. it seems that if i keep "clicking" the starter eventually it will start. once running in the snow for a while then shutting it off it will "click" once or twice then fire up. it is starting to worry me wondering if it will just not start one day. Im shure someone will know what to do here. Thanks Kevin

No brostar still working on it slowly havent had much time to go on it. I have the steering box mounted now so all i need to do is make the tie rods and run hoses. (probably another week. but only 3 hours worth)

Hey hers the pics of the way i mounted the pump. http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2575897070104844937LblpfI

take the number to a auto parts store they will know what to make of it. it starts 040... the 4 means 4 v's then the last part of the number is the total length like 275 would be 27.5 inches. hope this helps.

I'm still slowly plunking away at this. so far i have the pump mounted and found a belt that works. i also have the resivour mounted. when i went to mount the steering box i found that after cutting out the old steering plate and top cross bar that the Toyota box wont fit. so back to the wreckers and got a box from a 95 ford ranger it fits nicer but i have one delema. to make it fit the best i end up having the center of the Pittman shaft off center of the trooper. so my question for you guys is would it matter if one tie rod is longer than the other? any input would be great Thanks, Kevin

Yeah i've beat the heck out of mine but i think the main problem is that the skid plates are in so many pieces and are mounted with light tabs. if the skid plate was one or two pieces it would be much stronger because it would have to pull and stretch the metal from the underside of the whole unit. i am eventually going to build a 1 piece from 3/16 aluminum and drill and tap holes in the frame to mount it. there is special washers out there that you drill a 1 inch hole in the skid plate and the washer is recessed so you can use a hex bolt without worrying about catching it on rocks or trees. Yamaha uses the same method, if you have a buddy with a rhino look at how his plates are mounted.

Sounds good lenny if mine screws up again i think that's what i will be doing. The reason my actuator failed is because it got water in it because they stripped out the holes on the cover so it didn't seal. so when i put it into 2wd the limit switch didn't stop the carrier and ended up burning a spot off of one of the gears. i fixed it temporarily by fileing out the spot and putting "mighty Putty" in the hole then i ran the gear over it to make teeth and it worked until i got my new actuator now i have it as a backup. I used lots of silicone on the new cap to prevent this and haven't had a problem since. I usually shift into/out of 4wd on the fly i just make sure there is no torque on the drive line and let off a bit on the gas to make sure it goes in fine. I just had the diff apart and looked at those lock collars (4wd and diff lock) and neither of them had even a nick on them. but i do believe i am missing a gear from the crown gear. it has been making a crunch noise and a bit of a skip from the beginning but it started getting worse lately.

Oh I see.

Kinarfi, where do you get the aluminum weld on threaded bungs from?

Hey Lenny what did you do for an oil seal in the diff around the the engagement pin?

pull the bigger looking top gray pice out and you will see the pin.

The system on the sleds don't run switches the just try to keep it simple but i see no reason why you couldn't especially if you have the know how like yourself. one other thing, the line from the top of the surge tank should go to the stock return port on the tank not the vent line. i think you will get an air lock if you do it this way, maybe not.

so Lenny, how far lock to lock would that be? 5.5 inches? i just briefly measured mine but not to precisely. Kevin

I overlooked the most obvious problem with the joyner kit and thought it up earlier today and so did kinarfi. when the pump stops turning you stop steering. and with the pump way down on the floor like that, a rock or twig is bound to screw the belt and there you are, sitting or into a tree. at least with the gear box im using i can still turn if i loose hydraulic power.

I nabbed this link from another forum. it is the Joyner kit looks like it would work fine I would worry about the seals on that big cylinder getting chewed up from sand and mud. it should be ok if they used GOOD seals. have a look. Trooper powersteering

yeah some of the skag is "bottomless" it is just a layer of 6" grass and roots on top of a lake. so it is possible to loose one but Ive never seen it. as for the diff i had it strip at first because it wasn't set up right from factory and i just turned the locker gear over so it was like new. second time i was having trouble it wouldn't lock at all so i pulled it apart thinking to find the same problem but nothing so i looked at the cable and discovered it to be ceased. with these tracks i need to drive in diff lock a lot and if it was fully locked it wouldn't bother me. so being as a buddy and i had a few "beverages" that night i just fired up the welder and burned them together. i did it so that if i wanted to put it back all i need is 2 gears and all will be stock. if any one is interested in this let me know because it involves a bit of disassemble to remove the locker shifting fork. thanks, Kevin

Dust? I hate dust but i love the mud. this mud is better though it is muskeg and is just peat moss and water basically.

Hey, I had the same thing with the u joints and yes the holes are threaded but are a fine thread so you need a short fine threaded nipple or the hammer in type but definitely put in nipples and keep them greased the u-joints are cheap and seem to crap out. as for the lack of power mine seems that way too around 4000 rpm it kicks ass right? the motor is a 1L and aren't known for being torque monsters as far as I know. someone correct me if im wrong.

things are looking good i was out in the shop with a beer holding things in places and running a tape measure just "figuring". one thing i found is that the pump runs in the opposite direction as the trooper motor so it will need to be put on backwards which will be an issue for most of you guys that have the rad in the stock location. to tell the truth i don't know if there is enough room to mount a pump the other way i wish i could see the trooper pump but oh well. the gear box will fit nicely up front as long as you don't have anything in between the upper frame tubes like me. I mounted a second battery up there to run my winch and stereo so i don't kill the main battery (I have an isolator to keep the 2 batteries separate). i took a bunch of pictures so i will just put my link to my webshots account and you can look at them there. My Trooper Album have a look let me know what you think Kevin

yes my trooper has the same thing going on I would like to heat the whole swing arm up and twist it back but i probably wont.