ksimpsy

can anyone tell me what fitting i need to get to go onto the pressure end of the pump? I got my new pumps the other day and the look identical just like we thought.

Is the price on those trailing arms outrageous and your scared to tell us or what?

I had my tank out and I cut off the stock mounts and welded on a full piece of angle but 3/4" higher so i could put in vibration isolators. I also put an extension on the filler neck so I could fill it with a jerrycan. I have an old tank, i guess the new tanks already have the long filler spout. Kevin

I'm thinking Rock Mountain House but I may be all by myself on that one :lol:

do you have pics of them and a price? Thanks Kevin

That"s great :D I ordered 2 and shipping is free even to Canada. Good find Lenny Thanks, Kevin

yeah just finished the rear diff and all the bolts were loose 4 were half sheared off and one was completely broke the dummy that safety wired the thing did it backwards . its a good thing I didn't go on that last ride. one thing on the rear diff is that I took out all the shims between the cone and bearing and when reassembled it still needs to come down to fit the pinion gear better. so what you said about machiening the shoulder down is a possibility. mine wasn't that bad so i just set it as best i could. Kevin

Just finished the front diff and everything worked perfect. the only difference I found is that I had no groove for the new snap ring. not the biggest deal I just didn't put it in. thanks again Lenny Kevin

http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=116 this fuel controller is what they used in the turbo kit. you can remove timing not add, but all you do is hook it up and plug in the computer and you can change it all. there is other boxes on that site that will take the place of the stock one so a person could get it to run perfect but those are $2000 or more.

OOPSY! for some reason i don't think a 3 stroke would run too well . I think for compression it should be over 100 psi at least probably 120 or at least that's a normal engine isn't it? Kevin

Lenny, do you have an Air Fuel Ratio gauge? this helps in determining if you are rick or lean. and more accurate than checking plugs, 4 stroke plugs are hard to read accurately unlike 3 strokes. this AFR gauge will make your life so easy you just try to keep it in the green. http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=67 Pricey though but worth it for piece of mind Kevin

Uhhhh I sure wish I could help you with some positivness but I really don't know. I believe you just run a small line from your charge tube or manifold to that barb. I know there is a rubber plug on the backside of the intake at the bottom so you may be able to use this. this should change the fuel pressure under boost to prevent leaning under boost. this is what I have been told, I think, so don't quote me but im pretty sure it will help. I will talk to the guy that built the turbo kit tomorrow and ask him for more info. Kevin

Lenny if you are still using the stock fuel pressure reg it will work but I was told that it leaks air under boost so it needs to be sealed up. it leaks around the top adjusting nut all you need is a plastic washer under the nut apparently. this leak wont affect any of us without boost as we don't have a boost line hooked to the empty barb on the reg. (just thought I should mention that) Kevin

Yeah and if a guy did get a car engine in it you could keep the accessory drive together and rig up power steering and use the A/C compressor as a air pump for flat tires and such. a honda engine seems like a good choice especially an inline 4 cyl should be an easy squeeze. There seems to be lots of stores on ebay that sell motors. you can look through all the pics and see what on looks like it will work like this one http://cgi.ebay.ca/89-94-MAZDA-MX3-AUTOZAM...34.c0.m14.l1262 Its a Mazda but it has the same layout as the trooper

Those pics look familiar? the price is a bit more than I thought though, but it could be because of the computer I haven't talked to my guy yet.

My problem was the starter, it finally gave up so i changed it out and now it works great no clicking.

all I do is keep clicking the key and it stars eventually, that's been working for almost a year. it seems once i get riding for awhile it works better so maybe warmth helps it. i changed the starter out when the trooper was new and that fixed the problem for about a week. the starter is a bit of a pill to change, you need to remove the whole intake manifold.

When you bypassed the master switch and hooked the positive wires together. did you notice one of the smaller positive wires had a draw that caused a spark when hooked to the others? because I do, I actually changed out my master switch for a better actual "switch" and have quite the draw almost like something is grounding out. when it gets wet it actually steams. hope it don't burn Kevin

I am gonna check that out, it is alot simpler of an answer than i was starting to think. i guess that would explain why there was only 8V on the starter solenoid form the key. Good work.

Oh, yeah i have to do this a few times a trip but you have it exactly right rub the tree to make a tight turn and skid the back around. i didn't damage the swing arm i just stretched the front pivot holes like Lenny did. so i will need to fix those holes and probably make them bigger, like Lenny. but i just figured a link of some kind would keep the swing arm from getting forced in.

I was sitting with a beer and looking at the arse of the trooper when i thought "what about panhard bars". if we came off the frame by the diff and out to the swing arm do you think that would give more stability to the swing arm from being pushed in? just a thought, if someone can tell me why it wont work let me know. I know that the bar would move in a radius so if it could slip when the suspension was down but at normal ride height it would be snug so that when turning hard or rubbing around trees (in my case) the wheel couldn't be forced in. thanks Kevin

I'm not the biggest fan of washing, it takes an hour out of my day, but I guess I had my fun getting it dirty. the locker is still welded and I like it because I don't have to worry about the locking mechanism working or not. right now my front dosen't work I think that the pin it slides on is binding because i pulled it apart and it was fine if you push evenly but when it pulls on the cable it seems to bind or not fully engage. The power steering is working great, it makes driving with the diff locked much easier you dont even notice when the front diff is locked you can turn fine. the only thing that could be better is the steering geometry, because my tie rods are longer than the a-arms when the suspension compresses the toe in turns to toe out. im sure a few of you guys saw that problem, but for me it is no big deal at normal ride height it has toe in and when my suspension bottoms i am usually going slow. Kevin

So I took the Trooper for a ride yesterday, it's not running right yet. they were still waiting to get it tuned on the dyno but it was still very impressive. once the boost kicked in it was alot of fun. I didnt have a good place to test it, just a ditch but once it is running tip top i will take it for another burn with more road or trail so i can get a good overall feel of it I would also like to take a video to show you guys. I took a few pics of the kit so have a look. http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/23109...104844937hVtAoV Kevin

make sure your calipers are able to float I have noticed mine arent and it is just wearing the inner pads off on the back. I am just going to check and clean the slide pins and that should help.

I just talked to the guy yesterday he said it was almost done they were just going to put it on a dyno to do all the fuel mapping. I will be going to take it for a drive hopefully this week and I will report back with pics and info.