mixfixdave

I’m thinking if the locker pin is pulled into the diff enough that you can’t get the cable out, then you need to remove the diff and open it up. Happened to me once, locker wouldn’t engage, but the problem was the locker mechanism/fork inside the differential was bent and off the locker ring. I straightened it and it’s been fine for years. Also had some loose ring gear bolts and did the Lenny upgrade while I had it apart. Here’s a pic of the locker fork and ring[emoji16]

Make certain a toggle switch or wiring is not the problem. Especially if the switches aren’t waterproof. Connect a voltmeter and tap/jiggle switches and wiring to see if anything seems twitchy. I’d check voltages or resistance all the way to the pump and ECU. If the previous owner did electrical mods, I’d check them close.

Have you tried swapping the engine, fuel pump and fan relays...may help eliminate a bad relay?

I would check both of the fuse blocks, dirt can get in the contacts of the fuses and cause problems. Clean them out and make sure they aren’t deformed. Can use small flat blade screwdriver or needle nosed pliers to bend them some. I use dielectric grease to keep the crud out, but depending on how you wheel the beast, they need attention from time to time. I haven’t had problems with the plastic (molex style) in-line connections of the wiring harness, but I did clean them and apply grease when I bought it years ago.

Thanks Grizz Country. Once upon a time, Silverbullett had some shims for those wheel bearings. I have replaced mine with the SKF as well (twice, 7k miles) but didn’t use any shims. Just a small bit of play.

I still have some used ball joints and spare parts that I keep in my tool box, but I will eventually need a source for new ones. Hoping these can am lower ones will work. Pretty stiff competition out there...My T4 is in the background.

Check this out...looks like cam am lower joints are close. I’m trying to find out exactly what modification has to be done to the knuckle. https://www.ebay.com/itm/153924040452

Can you describe what drilling you had to do to the knuckle? I’m not sure what you mean by “teem/drill”...

Check this out... Looks like Moose May have a solution. 2008 Journey Trooper T2 Aftermarket suspension parts https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=21400&share_tid=6463&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eutvboard%2Ecom%2F&share_type=t&link_source=app

I have a T4 and found the goldfren k5-294 pads were correct for trooper, not sure about renegade. https://www.ebay.com/itm/133388545212

But don’t forget about the ball joints @Volkz VLOGS

If you have HD Moose ball joints that fit the Joyner Trooper 1100, please post that part number. We would all love to know!

Joyner part numbers

Here’s a link to two... https://www.ebay.com/itm/312063845147

I have also been looking. I purchased replacements 4 years ago but they weren’t the best quality and have reinstalled the originals. Found these for Arctic Cat that I think are the same. I couldn’t get any specs or measurements for them from the seller though.

Hope this helps. Looks like Red Black goes to fuel pump...

I’ve had good luck with my 2009 T4. Very dependable vehicle over the years. Purchased it many years ago with 1000 miles and now I have over 6000 miles on it now.

I was in the same position many years ago and purchased a slightly used T4 from a friend. Had about 1000 miles on it then, over 6000 on it now. It’s been a great machine, replaced fuel filter once, wheel bearings and a few bushings over the years, but it’s been a very dependable machine and still is. I have tags on it so it’s street legal. I always tease the RZR guys that I can take them back to their truck when they break and axle or belt...and I usually do[emoji51]

It had been my experience that problems are usually in the fuse blocks and connectors. Did some wheeling at LBL Kentucky yesterday...and found a mud hole!

Thanks...makes wheeling the beast much more enjoyable.

Can’t remember the name, but this was the number... (480) 539-6872 And (480) 882-9612

Glad you had a good experience...I have ordered parts from Joyner years ago and had great experience, the tech there was happy to answer my questions about some troubleshooting I was doing.

I don’t know of a current source but one of the first things I did was break a trailing arm off at the body mount. I used a plasma cutter to make some plates for reinforcement and welded it back up...did the same to the other trailing arm and haven’t had a problem with them since. Trailing arms used to be available on ebay and at joynerusa and Casey Ye...

More pics of the power steering setup...works great!