silverbullet

Are they going to rebuild the diffs? New parts? What if you are out of warranty?

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Silverbullet.

The diffs will be taken apart and be repaired.If it is not repairable they will replace it.Warranty all of them.

Kinarfi,

I believe SilverBullet is only talking about the engager, not the diff itself.

SilverBullet, am I right? The Warranty work/upgrade spoke of first is only the engager, not the diff. But You did just mention the future CV front driveline, is that a possible future freebie from Joyner (parts only)? Thanks for hanging with us even tho some of us (me) gets a bit pushy on an occasion.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Silverbullet.

No the driveshaft will not be covered.Since thear has been no problum with the front driveshaft.It is just and upgrade.If i hear any thing different i will let you know.

Kinarfi,

I believe SilverBullet is only talking about the engager, not the diff itself.

SilverBullet, am I right? The Warranty work/upgrade spoke of first is only the engager, not the diff. But You did just mention the future CV front driveline, is that a possible future freebie from Joyner (parts only)? Thanks for hanging with us even tho some of us (me) gets a bit pushy on an occasion.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Silverbullet.

No the diffs front rear will be warranty parts and if a dealer dose the work the labor and parts will be covered.

Does this include those of use who do not have any warranty left?

Silverbullet.It will include PARTS & LABOR at any joyner dealer.Joyner is doing the right thing!!!!!.No warranty needed.Includes front rear diffs

I have wondered,

The front & OLD rear drivelines were of the same construction. The old rear driveline had to be replaced with a CV style driveline. How long will the front driveline hold up? Is there going to be a CV style driveline replacement for the front? Will we have to pay for it, LOL? Will we even be given a break in the price of the replacement? This is of concern as the front driveline is turning all the time just as the rear but without load. Still those poorly made, non grease-able U-joints are stll being worked.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Silverbulletmotorsports.

We have only had 1 driveshaft go bad.But in the future they will be useing c/v style driveshaft.But thats in the future.

Hi guys I was wondering if anyone has thought about or experienced the need to upgrade the front

drivline assembly ?

silverbullet.

When you say up grade what do you mean.

We have In our test trooper a manual 4x4 shifter.We saw the Joyner fix and its top notch.But felt we could work with the stock housing and make a special fab bracket so we could save you a whole lot

of labor & cost We pretty sure this is the way to go.So far so good.

Well let you know.

Thanks

Hi guys I was wondering if anyone has thought about or experienced the need to upgrade the front

drivline assembly ?

Silverbulletmotorsports.net

Joyner is going to be in the near future .Doing a warranty on all troopers -renegade diffs.At no charge parts warranty.

Richard

When I purchased my clutch, I found out there are now two different clutches. The newer Troopers take a clutch that has diff springs & plastic clips (I would have concerns about plastic that close to a heat source) and the older (which I have) has the metal clips.

Lenny, I also got new brake pads. At $6 a corner, not hardly worth looking for another or bonding a new surface to the backing plates. The pads don't have alot of meat on them but mine lasted nearly two years so it is something I can deal with. Pads are about the only deal thus far!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Yes the new clutch has plastic clips.Thats a no no.I can check and see if we have the old style.That plastic melts under heavy use.

Silverbullet

But with other brands you have choices, Aftermarket, internet suppliers and cross products. We have no where to turn but to except whatever product or price put before us. Not good when you are trying to compete in today's market with other brands. 5% off a $300 stock clutch is still overpriced when I can buy a Hypo clutch for a Mustang for less. I was asked yesterday by a friend who has a Rhino if he should buy a Trooper. I had to tell him honestly I don't know if I would purchase again. Too many ducks in a row against the purchase and this in my mind is another. You can't tell me it even cost Joyner $100 to manufacture and import the $300 clutch. 200% profit is a bit much for a Chinese manufactured product. Maybe Joyner needs to sale thu Walmart to see what the real profit/markup is. Sorry but I am a bit ticked over paying $300 for a $100 clutch.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Silverbullet.

My clutch is made in USA.

Talked with Daven, the guy I met at the UTV Rally in Moab, and the replacement clutch from Progressive Performance did not work. So the only aftermarket replacement I have heard or read is Silverbullet's. I am not going to touch the flywheel so Silverbullet's is not an option for me. I have a Hypo classic car that also has that option and I am glad I stayed with the stock clutch from personal experience. Silverbullet, Just My Humble Opinion, JMHO! I am not going to get into the Technical reasons but as an Engineer & Racer, I have them. Daven also confirmed that Joyner is only selling parts thu the local dealers per instructions from the new owners, not impressed with the first action for the new owners!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

They are trying to make the dealers of Joyner,s like all power sports dealers.You cant buy parts

direct from honda or polaris .We sell parts for 5% off list price.Sorry JOHO you are missing out on a great clutch.The flywheel needs to be

cut with a flywheel grinder.Now i no why you know so much its nice to talk to some one with your experance.

Are all K&N pre filters impregnated with silicone? I was under the impression only the ones for personal water craft were.

Silverbullet.

4x4x454 I just tried a precharge under the sink and some water went thru it.But the water that went thru it just stayed inside like

a fishbole so it has a coating.So it has a coating .

I mentioned earlier that I had changed to a K&N 4160 and used the stock Joyner Prefilter. It's been said that it is silicone coated. When I washed the prefilter, it accepted water with no problem, so I doubt it has any silicone left on it, if it did have any on it. I wonder if spraying it with something like "Camp Dry" silicone would be helpful?

Silverbullet.

The Joyner pre filter is n/g.You need K&N Precharger the precharge is Silicone coated.And it has to fit real tight.

SilverBullet,

How about that clutch info? Still don't understand where or how or what gives the different torque numbers.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Silverbullet.

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SilverBullet,

How much are your clutches?

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Silverbullet.

Joyner dose not sell parts retail anymore!You must go to dealer.We offer 5% discount.You talk to a parts man not a merchine shipping

isvery low.We stock a large inventory of stock parts.we ship anywhear USA.

Hey all!

My husband and I bought one of the first hard tops Joyner released for the T2. The top, front windshield area and the back window area are all molded of the same fiberglass as the body. It is also the same color as the body. The windshield and back window are plexiglass. The doors are soft, and attach to the door opening with screws. They opened with a huge zipper, much like a tent door. We did not like the doors at all, so we took them off. The door around the bottom where you get into the buggy stuck up above the frame about an inch, creating a real tripping hazard if you tried to get in and out of the buggy in a hurry.

As for bringing in dust, that does happen, but not intolerable. Running without the doors keeps enough air flow for us. There is a little more engine heat in the cab, but again not intolerable. All in all, it has been a good investment for us, simply due to the protection from the sun it gives. It will also help keep you dry in a gentle rain....hopefully the wind isn't blowing!

We sell hard doors for your joyner. They are on back order but they fit very good and close well .

silverbullet

Hey Rick,

How much are those upgraded stage 1 and stage 2 clutches costing? Theres plenty of people that look for those things but nobody can ever figure out what clutches they use. I have heard that the clutches are actually similar to that of a Geo Metro but not positive on that.

Silverbullet.

Sorry i did not get back to you sooner.The stage1 375. Stage 2 395, The stock clutch is about 300.We have instaled both in our test trooper

and they work great. Bearing is 18.00 extra.You will have to cut the flywheel .Joyner dose not sell parts to the public any more.Please

tell the forum.We have a large parts dept.We ship all over the world.

Well, here is how I did the change to tapered roller bearings along with some pictures. The first pic shows where the inner race of the bearings were spinning on the axel.

ROLLER BEARING CONVERSION

Conversion per wheel uses Timken Tapered roller bearing:

Outer - #LM48510, 2.5625” OD

Inner - #LM48548, 1.375” ID

Seals can be replaced with seals that are the same size as the stock seals.

Due to different production runs of Joyner parts, there are some variations in part dimensions. As a result, based on the following, take measurements and evaluate if minor adjustments from those stated will be required.

The bearing shoulder, on the short axel that turns in the bearing with the CV joint bell on the other end, needs to be lengthened .071”. The shoulder O.D. also needs to be reduced by approximately .001”. This has to be done on a lathe with an O.D. grinding attachment. Lengthen the shoulder by extending it further on the shaft. This part can be machined using a good quality carbide tool. The shaft is hard and to get the O.D. accurate grinding is required. Grind the O.D. to be .0003” larger than the I.D. of the inner bearing. We are looking for a medium press fit.

The bearing outer housing will need to be bored a little larger. Bore it to be .0003” small than the O.D. of the outer bearing race.

The bearings are placed so that the inner bearing cones face each other. Picture a V with an upside down V directly below it. This provides the best angle of support for the wheel. These two (2) inner bearings require a .100” thick spacer in between them, thus, holding them apart .100”. The I.D. of this spacer should be 1.378” and the O.D. .280” larger.

The outer races are placed with their cones facing out to match the inner bearings. These races require a .120” spacer in between them holding them apart. This spacer will be 2.560” O.D. with the I.D. being .400” smaller.

Once these spacers for both inner and outer are done, they may need some adjusting. This adjusting is done by block sanding one or the other on a 180 grit wet sanding paper laid on a flat surface.

To get the spacing right, assemble the inner and outer bearing parts with the spacers in their proper place. This is just the bearings and the spacers, no axel or housing. Now squeeze the bearing assembly in a vise. This should put the bearings at their proper preload pressure against each other. Now rotate the two (2) outer races which should turn as one. They should rotate freely but with some firmness to them from the preload force. If they are too tight, then slightly sand the outer spacer until it feels right in the vise. If it’s too loose, sand the inner spacer until everything feels right.

Do a pre-assembly by pressing all parts together on the axel and in the housing. Now check for clearance between the CV belt and the bearing housing. When the axel nut is tightened, these parts may touch each other preventing rotation. If so, use a four (4) jaw chuck to chuck up the bearing housing to spin reasonably true and machine to relieve the interference area.

Now, being sure the outer races are all the way seated as far as they will go into the bearing housing, measure between the side of the 2nd outer race and the outer most edge of the retaining ring groove in the bearing housing. Now subtract from this dimension the thickness of the snap ring and make a spacer to take up the difference.

The last thing you are going to do is make sure the wheel mount plate that slides onto the axel spline before the nut goes on, is that the spline slides on nearly all the way. Also, check for clearance between the wheel plate and the side edge of the bearing housing. If there is a clearance problem, shim accordingly.

Do a good job of greasing up the bearings and do your final assembly. When putting the axel hex nut on, tighten it very tight and use a solid hardened pin in place of the cotter key. The cotter key can shear very easily and if the nut loosens, you’ll destroy the hub and probably the axel. I found a hairpin type retaining clip works great. It’s not so hard that I can’t bend it slightly on its extending end.

If this project is done correctly, which may require pressing the assembly together then dismantling it a few times, the final product will be far superior and take much more loading than the stock.

, , ,

Lenny

Silverbullet.You are to much.Thats in a good way. I would put a heat shield by your right rear shock.It gets real hot by header.Just a though.Good work!!!!

I kept and washed the Joyner Prefilter and put that on to keep the larger stuff out like sand and such, it was fairly tight, but it fit. The RC-4160 is a tad narrower and a tad longer than the stock one. If I wasn't snorkel to get the filter up out of the dirt, I would have to think about putting the vacuum cleaner bag from my wife's vacuum on for the sand Actually, with a good cage, that might work pretty well, cut one end off and tyrap it to the intake after you put piece of rolled up chicken wire screen or something similar inside, Maybe even turn the bag inside out. Cheap, disposable, and probably real good, think about how fine the dust in the house is. gotta quit thinking. it's starting hurt.

Silverbullet.

girl.s stocking work to.With the charger it has a coating to keep out the water.

Has anyone come up with an aftermarket,

BRAKE PAD?

CLUTCH?

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

silverbullet.

We have made a custom clutch stage 1 45% more torque/Stage 2 75% more torque

Well, I just finished putting my new K&N RC-4160 on. do you think it'll stay cleaner if I leave the cellophane on? It certainly should, considering I probably wouldn't go far that way. enough smileys

Kinarfi.

silvrerbullet.

You should get the pre charger so you can clean it less often. Just take it off and shake it out .It keeps the big crap out and is silicone coated for water proofing.For sand uni filter is the only way to go.

flatbed, I'm not planning on doing anything with the diff now but have decided that if it were mover forward about 3-4", we could get a nice increase in turning ability. As far as the rack goes, I agree with you on its location in reference to other stuff. If I later do make changes to improve steering, the rack would have to be probably about 1/2" longer on each side and the steering rods about 1/2" shorter. I would study the possible effects but this little bit might be ok. The changes I'm making now will not be effected by moving the diff forwaqrd later. So far I manqaged to get everything to swing through 14.5" of travel without binding full droop or bump, turning right or left. I'll post pics of what I did to my ball joints and some clearance problems I had to address. Tomorrow, Saturday, I begin cutting the frame and mounting my front fox shocks. I have the rears on and they are a lot better then my modified shocks which were a lot better then the stock shocks. Can't wait to get the front done and try it.

Thanks for all your input and help.

Lenny

Silverbullet.

Lenny if you could show me what you had to cut to fit the shocks.Also to get 14.5 of travel.Some pics would be great

Thank's [email protected]

As far as running cooler, I have taken the plastic cover off the top of the engine. It doesn't keep dirt out or water but it does keep the heat in.

Lenny

Hi Lenny.We found a fan that will fix the over heating.It sells for $155.More cfm than stock

I use simple green and have not had a problem.

Silverbullet.

Yes gas is n/g.Just use a mild soap.Gas will destroy the fiber in the filter.K&N sells a kit .Its pricey but so is your motor

So far my motor temp has stayed OK. I do plan on coweling some fresh air from higher to the motor compartment to like you said, get cooler air. My new windshield design will be sort of a double motorcycle type probably connected at the lower part in the center. Each side will have its own curve around right to left like a motorcycle along with a rounded top and probably come up only 2/3 of the way to the top roll bar. Sort of like two motorcycle windshields with about a 6 to 8" gap in the center. Should look kind of cool. Kind of like an old open air sports car. The idea is to funnel the air individually around each person while creating a air flow stream through the center torwards the engine. I may try to use some type of air funnel inbetween the seats to catch that air and shove it down to the engine. I also want to make it fold so in the warm weather, I can get the air in my face which can be nice. Also, lets face it, vision is best without anything in front of you.

Lenny

Silverbullet.

We found that removeing the plastic cover and puting a metal mesh instead it ran much cooler.About 1/2 way up the gauge

Just got back from Gordon Wells. I put 1300x 15" paddles on the back and left the front tires stock. I could make it up test with it in 4 wheel drive with nothing locked up in 2 nd gear. The steepist part i could get about 7/8 up the hill. I could dune very easy in 3rd gear. With a good set of front tires you could probably go any where you wanted to. It would be nice to have just a litttle more hp.

Silverbullet.

Sand stars work great in front.We can climb comp hill no proublum.They are only 26x12 but this gives you more power to climb.We use them front and rear.The 26 gives you that little more power.You will need spacers to fit the wheel's