Quantcast
Jump to content

Joyner Renegade R2 800 won’t run


Billy

Recommended Posts

I have a 2008 R2 800 that I can’t get get running. I have replaced coils, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, fuel lines, pressure regulator and injectors. When this started, I could get it to run good for a little while and it would then start “sputtering” and die. Let it “rest” a few minutes and it would go again. The good kept getting shorter and the bad longer ‘til, now, won’t start. Unless it is the ECU or a sensor, I’m at a loss. Getting fire, compression seems to be good. I can pull an injector and turn it over and see fuel. I’m tired of chasing it. Great vehicle for what I need. Is there a replacement engine (and electronics) that will bolt to the Joyner transaxle (or any suggestions on finding and fixing the one I have)? I think I read where an older Civic engine was swapped into, I think, a Trooper.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shop battery chargers at ChromeBattery.com

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Robert Mack
      I have a Kubota RTV900 that I am having issues with......it will start up, run about 10-15 seconds then die......turn the key off and wait a few minutes, and the same thing happens. I have gone through all the steps listed to bleed and prime the pump even though I did not run out of fuel....and I cracked the lines on the injector pump and watched fuel pump out as I crank it, so I am not convinced that it is a fuel injector issue......is there a relay that could be causing this? What is the starter timer relay that people have mentioned and what does it do?
    • By Weber
      Hello.  Can anyone provide location of fuel pump relay switch.  According to the tech at Massimo it is not in the fuse/relay switch box but mounted near the fuel pump, but I am not seeing it.  Pics would be appreciated also and thank you in advance.
    • By NewtoUTV
      We just purchased the Coleman UT400, I put 5 gallons of fuel in the tank and the fuel indicator still reads "empty".  After looking around the fuel tank, I found a tube that is only connected at one end, maybe this is the issue?  I have been looking for a more comprehensive manual that may show how this tube should be connected, no luck.  Looking for help on this issue/issues.  Thank you.

       
    • By malenurse13
      We just bought a used 2017 American Landmaster TW450. No hour meter that I can find, so not sure exactly how much it has been used. 
      The first 2 days we had it, the starter was a little sketchy, but it started after 2-3 tries. Sometimes when turning the key, we would hear a loud metal "clink" sound. Like the starter made contact, but didn't have enough power to turn. 
      THIS MORNING... Turning the key, we hear a single click sound. That's it. Even with a new battery, the starter is still doing the same thing. Both batteries (old and new) were reading 12.8 volts on volt meter. So I'm wondering what else could be going on? Any ideas on what to look for would be greatly appreciated...
      Thank you!
    • By Greg Kilgore
      I installed an electric coolant temp gauge and volt gauge today. The oil pressure gauge I ordered had a bad sending unit. So once the replacement arrives. I'll add that install to the post. The I used a 22mm temp radiator adapter.

      1/8 " NTP x 1/8 NTP adapter.

      And an electric temp gauge.

       
      Had to take a drill and drill bit to enlarge the 1/8 NTP adapter to allow the temp sending unit to pass thru. Another user on the forum enlarged the 1/8 NTP hole in the 22mm radiator to 1/4 NTP and used a 1/4 NTP x 1/8 NTP reducer. Either way would work. Both has it challenges. And both accomplished the same thing. To get the sending unit just barely in the coolant. If you just put the sending unit in. IMO it just blocks too much of the coolant flow.
      I didn't get a pic of how far the sending unit protrudes into the rad adapter. But it wasn't a lot. And also since it an electric gauge the sending unit needed to be grounded. But since there wasn't a place on the temp radiator adapter. I used a clamp to secure a ground/negative wires to the temp sending unit. The gauge wiring was simple. The gauge's wiring harness had a red, green, and black wire. Red goes to a positive. Black to a negative. Green to the sending unit. Since I had some 18 AGW speaker wire. I used that to run to the sending unit. Red to green, black to black. 
      Then another piece of the speaker wire from the gauge to power source. I tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash. (Just as I did for the overhead fan.)
      Then used a 2" hole saw to cut into the plastic above what I'd call the radio door.



      The gauge goes to about 174° F then the radiator fan kicks on. Cools down to about 150° F and kicks off. Now the lowest the temp gauge will read is 104° when you first start the machine. That is the nature of the gauge. Even says so on the web page. So I'll just have to live with it.
      The voltage gauge
      .
      Was simple to install. Just a positive and negative wire to connect.  Tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash.
       
       
       
       
       
  • Gallery Images

×
×
  • Create New...