Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi,

Thank you for admitting me to your forum. I have an issue with my Hisun Axis 500. I bought this vehicle last week, the fuel gauge was totally in good condition. Now it no longer indicates the fuel level. There is no longer any current supplying the gauge. I checked the fuses, everything is fine.

 

The connections seems ok.

 

Any idea? 

 

Thanks

Posted

I ran the vehicle for at least an hour, may be more. The gauge did'nt change. Still the same, no white bars have'nt change. May be you're right, i dont know about this UTV. I'll keep wondering for the result. One thing for sure, I will carry a tank of gasoline in case of running on empty.

 

Thanks.

Posted

I would keep an eye on it, but at this point you can't really tell if it's not working. There are 6 bars, and almost 8 gallons so it should be something like 1.3 gal/bar assuming the gauge is linear. Most gas gauges tend not to be, in my experience, at least in cars. I have not tried to check the accuracy of my Hisun's gauge.

For trail riding these things should get pretty decent gas mileage, I'm guessing around 20 MPG, so a full tank should be like 150 miles on that machine.

Idling should burn <0.5 GPH.

So you may not have burned much more than a gallon anyway.

Post an update when you burn some more and let us know if it's still having issues.

  • Alex changed the title to Hisun Axis 500 Fuel gauge fault
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 11/12/2022 at 10:13 AM, aefron88 said:

I would keep an eye on it, but at this point you can't really tell if it's not working. There are 6 bars, and almost 8 gallons so it should be something like 1.3 gal/bar assuming the gauge is linear. Most gas gauges tend not to be, in my experience, at least in cars. I have not tried to check the accuracy of my Hisun's gauge.

For trail riding these things should get pretty decent gas mileage, I'm guessing around 20 MPG, so a full tank should be like 150 miles on that machine.

Idling should burn <0.5 GPH.

So you may not have burned much more than a gallon anyway.

Post an update when you burn some more and let us know if it's still having issues.

You were right about the fuel consumption. There are two bars left, that mean the gauge is working. Thanks.

  • 6 months later...
  • 6 months later...
Posted

My 2021 HS 500 has the exact same display as yours.  I've been wondering the same thing.  Meantime I'm driving around with a gas can in the back.  I've been roaming around for about 2 hours now driving at low speeds no more than 3,000 rpms max, 10-12 kms/h.  Maybe take a little while  longer for the first white light on the fuel guage to go out?  I hope its not malfunctioning as I am 45 minutes from my dealer in New Hamburg ON and have no trailer to haul it around.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Topics

    • By Sammy
      Runs fine just putting around the yard. Get it out on the road and about a half miles it runs out of gas. Let it idle for a few minutes and it will run for another half mile and do it again. Replaced both fuel pumps and filter. Does anyone know if I can get rid of the factory fuel pump?
    • By AlphaSerenity
      Hello,
      Before I invest $10k+ into a brand new UTV for the farm, I want to get my feet wet with a fixer upper and learn the mechanical side of things. I acquired a 2022 Hisun Axis 500 (Lowes-specific model) from an auction for $500. It has only 200 hours and 120 miles on the engine. It looks like the previous owner used it for ranch work and didn't drive it on trails, deep water/mud, or anything too crazy.
      While it runs and moves, it has some problems. It struggles to accelerate up any incline in high and low range and sometimes stalls when I let off of the throttle or change gears. When I apply throttle in neutral, it sounds like it is struggling for fuel/air and pops. When I decelerate, there is a grinding sound coming from the clutch, which I've read to be related to the one way bearing and is semi-common. The last thing I've observed is sometimes the speedometer display sometimes will show a much higher value for a few seconds after barely touching the throttle. Based on the documentation, if a problem is detected from the sensors, the instrument panel display should have an error code rendered on the screen in place of the time, but this isn't happening. Here is a video showing some of these issues (engine is exposed with console removed):
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFAkO5TaGps
       
      Here is another video of the clutches in action:
       
      I've done some research, but information on this specific unit and sister units is limited. There does seem to be transmission and clutch issues reported. I still need to check into the head gaskets. I don't have the equipment to test compression right now, but I do plan on ordering what is needed soon. I do have an order in place for some cables to read the diagnostics from the computer. There is a shop two hours away from me that works on Hisun products, but I am hoping the problem can be identified and is something within my ability to handle. Below is what I've already investigated.  I am leaning towards the primary clutch needing replacement right now.
      After getting it home and unloaded, I did the following maintenance/checks to it prior to operating it further:
      Changed the engine/clutch oil (and filter) and gear oils using manufacture recommended viscosity Changed the air filter and checked for cracks in the air intake flow. Verified good suction. Cleaned the throttle body Changed the spark plug and verified the gap was within spec (0.6-0.7mm) Changed the coil and coil wire Changed the fuel lines, fuel injector, and verified the fuel pump was outputting the correct initial prime pressure for ignition and continuous pressure after ignition. Also completely emptied the fuel tank and made sure octane 91+ fuel is being used per manufacturer specs. Ran seafoam through system too. Cleaned the spark arrester and verified no cracks or gaps in the exhaust flow Changed out the O2 sensor Checked all wired connections to ensure they were secured and no breaks were visible Checked the belt for tightness and for any signs of wear and tear Verified 4WD and the differential lock function as expected - still hesitates and struggles uphill Verified the fan gears in the shifter are not corroded and working as expected ECU was reset after replacing sensors and fuel-related parts  
       
      Thanks!
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By mike28honda
      I have an Axis 500 and never had any problems until now,it cuts out 
      at around half throttle. I changed the TPS with no difference, acts like the seatbelts aren't set but can get up to around 15 mph as long as I don't give it too much gas, thanks for any advice 
    • By Nick Varnes
      So I have a Bennche Bighorn 500 that I bought used a couple years ago. Was working fine until this winter when I was plowing and I think it drained the battery. And had a difficult time starting and staying running. Idle seamed really low, and would only stay running if I pushed on the throttle. So I changed the battery, and the acm valve, fuel filter and spark plug it will start up and surgery to 3k rpm but comes back down and dies, unless I give it throttle. I am getting fairly good amount of fuel from fuel pump.  It does spit at stutter right before it dies. What should I try next?
×
×
  • Create New...