Quantcast
Jump to content

Out comes the welder


Recommended Posts

Have 2 cracks in my frame, I will post pics of where and how big later. Seems that its not directly related to a stress point per say, more of a bad weld opening up. Anyways, curious to know where the computer is and what else I should remove before welding on the frame? Will be using a 230V Mig and will post pics before/after.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I toasted a computer on my Trooper. It worked fine but after I welded on the Trooper, some of my gauges didn't work. Borrowed a computer from my dealer and put it in, everything worked fine. The catch here is that I used my tig welder which uses a high frequency start circuit to initiate the arc. High frequency is always very dangerous around electronics. It will run on the surface of any conductor and can cover the entire vehicle looking for a point from which to jump from to anything with a potential difference. That point can be inside one of your sencers which can send it directly to the computer.

The computer is behind the drivers seat, bolted to the firewall. Once loose, slide the plug end out which lifts the plug out of it's socket. Mine is tight so I have to use a screw driver to put through the rectangular hole in order to be able to pull on hard enough to get it apart. Before this happened I always welded without concern, now I remove the computer everytime. A new computer is $1000. It's just isn't worth the chance IMHO.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info, I figured thats where it was, just wanted to make sure and see if there was anything else that I should possibly disconnect before hand. Using a 230V Mig welder, not the best for welds but its what I got, so got to make due! :P

I do most all my welding with a MIG. They can be great for welding. Unless you have an old peice of junk your mig should be just fine.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do most all my welding with a MIG. They can be great for welding. Unless you have an old peice of junk your mig should be just fine.

Lenny

Im using the wire without gas, so the bead is not the best. :P Once I have it set up on gas it will be a different story. After alot of beers last night we got a little carried away and welded up the trooper. Never got any before pics, but will take some after shots.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By aefron88
      I've seen a number of requests for the location of all the grease points on these machines, and there is no definitive list in the manual. This covers the UT400, but other Coleman/Hisun models should be similar.
      Tools:
      First to grease your machine you need a grease gun and some NLGI#2 grease. You will find it helpful to buy a needle attachment as pictured here, due to poor clearance on some of the U-joints. The rest of the zerks use the standard attachment.
       
      Technique:
      Wipe any dirt/grease off the zerk before greasing to prevent pushing gunk inside and causing excess wear.
      Push the grease gun on the zerk at a straight angle and give it a few pumps. You will hear an oozing noise or sea grease coming out from the outside of the greased area when you've put enough grease in, a few pumps should be plenty.
      If it's just oozing around the zerk you either don't have a good seat with the gun, or the zerk may be rusted and the check ball frozen. Try seating it again and regrease.
      Wipe up any excess grease when youre done to prevent making a mess.
      Greasepoints:



      Rear A-Arms are greasable with the wheels on from the rear, I took the picture with the wheel off for easier visibility

       
      That's it. All other Hisuns should be substantially similar.
    • By trevor
      my hisun 400 has ben leaking oil out of a small metal tube on the bottom near the oil filter. Got the side by side given to me after been sitting for a couple years  but 2 quarts in nothing happened my buddy went and worked on it and put another quart in it. i thought it just pushed out what it didn't need. but its dry as a bone inside. does have a good clatter coming from the top end as well, with oil in it. looking for some help not much on the internet about these things.
    • By Kingfish
      I've had a battery failure and need one replacement.  The local distributor told me it might take up to four weeks to get one.  I'd like to order one in sooner than that if possible.  Any help would be appreciated.
    • By AL F
      CAN'T FIND ANYTHING UNDER 2005 THAT MATCHES  ARE THESE THE SAME   FUEL INJECTORS
    • By lozomex
      After a few days of heavy rainfall I got in my Sidekick and noticed that the belt seemed to be slipping as I was making my way out on a large property.  I turned around and could barely make it back to my shop.  After removing the cowelling I noticed about a quart of water drained out.  I dried the area, the cover and checked the belt.  No signs of dammage, belt looks great and no foreign debris other than water in the area.  I put it back together and there was a definite improvement.  The Sidekick is driveable now but the belt still slips but only at a higher speed and only when the throttle is punched.  I'm wondering whether I may have inadvertently damaged it while it was wet and have ordered a new belt.  I have looked on line to see if there is a guide or procedure, specifically for the CVT belt removal and replacement for the 850 but can find none.  Does anyone have experience with this?
×
×
  • Create New...