Replaced the injector, now when I turn the ignition on you can hear the fuel pump like normal but when the engine turns over it seizes up, pull the spark plug out and the cylinder is full of fuel, a lot of fuel, turn the engine over with the plug out and huge amounts of fuel blows out of the plug hole. What have I done wrong? I appreciate your help, thank you!
By Nickie Watts
I have a Hisun Strike 1000 I have been trying to get going, it has only 39 hours on it, so I can only assume it has been sitting for a long time.
The issue is it is losing spark to both coils after 20-30 seconds of running, doesn't matter if it's WOT or Idle, it will shut down. What sends signal to the coils to fire? It has a crank sensor, I was thinking a CDI box, but I have not found one of those on the machine.
The rear end was busted on it when I got it, So I ordered a new one and installed it only to run into this problem. I can only imagine the problem has happened over it sitting so long and not being driven.
I originally thought it was a fuel problem, so I checked the injectors, throttle body, o2 sensors. Discovered the heating element in one of the o2 sensors was bad, so ordered both and also replaced both injectors just to be sure, then discovered it is only losing spark.
By Robert B
Going down a 20 deg hill engine is holding UTV back. Then something releases like going into Neutral and makes a loud clacking noise. Have to use brake to slow UTV down. Then once level it shifts back into gear. Have done shift extension does not pop out of gear.
By Greg Kilgore
I installed an electric coolant temp gauge and volt gauge today. The oil pressure gauge I ordered had a bad sending unit. So once the replacement arrives. I'll add that install to the post. The I used a 22mm temp radiator adapter.
1/8 " NTP x 1/8 NTP adapter.
And an electric temp gauge.
Had to take a drill and drill bit to enlarge the 1/8 NTP adapter to allow the temp sending unit to pass thru. Another user on the forum enlarged the 1/8 NTP hole in the 22mm radiator to 1/4 NTP and used a 1/4 NTP x 1/8 NTP reducer. Either way would work. Both has it challenges. And both accomplished the same thing. To get the sending unit just barely in the coolant. If you just put the sending unit in. IMO it just blocks too much of the coolant flow.
I didn't get a pic of how far the sending unit protrudes into the rad adapter. But it wasn't a lot. And also since it an electric gauge the sending unit needed to be grounded. But since there wasn't a place on the temp radiator adapter. I used a clamp to secure a ground/negative wires to the temp sending unit. The gauge wiring was simple. The gauge's wiring harness had a red, green, and black wire. Red goes to a positive. Black to a negative. Green to the sending unit. Since I had some 18 AGW speaker wire. I used that to run to the sending unit. Red to green, black to black.
Then another piece of the speaker wire from the gauge to power source. I tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash. (Just as I did for the overhead fan.)
Then used a 2" hole saw to cut into the plastic above what I'd call the radio door.
The gauge goes to about 174° F then the radiator fan kicks on. Cools down to about 150° F and kicks off. Now the lowest the temp gauge will read is 104° when you first start the machine. That is the nature of the gauge. Even says so on the web page. So I'll just have to live with it.
The voltage gauge
Was simple to install. Just a positive and negative wire to connect. Tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash.
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