FlyCanadianGuy

If you decide to fix it, I do have a spare oil pan I might sell if it gets you back on the trails!

Good luck Tony. This is a great forum for other users to help troubleshoot and "retro-fit". Once I do get to my trooper out for the spring I'll load up a pic for you. What year/model is your machine?

Sure give me a week or two as the buggy is on the farm and im flat out at work at the moment but I will eventually get back to you. I know for a fact SOMEWHERE on this forum there was a how-to or explanation where someone has done the same thing. In short all the electrical motor is doing is pulling back a lever to engage the 4wd system. Using the SAME housing (minus the electrical motor that is just bolted to the side of it on a "U" plate you simply need to attach a simple braided cable (like found on a kids bicycle or throttle cable) to manually actuate it. I do hope were thinking about the same thing. This is based on my 2006 Trooper T2. If you could supply a pic of yours I wont have to make a run to the farm and can simply edit your pic to show you what I mean.

I just used a standard PTO engagement lever. Came with the cable and mounting bracket for like $20. Problem solved...

Im using the wire without gas, so the bead is not the best. Once I have it set up on gas it will be a different story. After alot of beers last night we got a little carried away and welded up the trooper. Never got any before pics, but will take some after shots.

What is your race car

Thanks for the info, I figured thats where it was, just wanted to make sure and see if there was anything else that I should possibly disconnect before hand. Using a 230V Mig welder, not the best for welds but its what I got, so got to make due!

Have 2 cracks in my frame, I will post pics of where and how big later. Seems that its not directly related to a stress point per say, more of a bad weld opening up. Anyways, curious to know where the computer is and what else I should remove before welding on the frame? Will be using a 230V Mig and will post pics before/after.

Payment sent.

I bought mine privately, so I have no dealer

If I try to reverse the wires on mine, it blows a fuse instantly. I havent had any cooling issues yet, but could you show me a pic of where you re-mounted the overflow incase I need to. Thanks!

Keep us updated please! Im always curious to know what other routes for parts other than from Joyner are available.

Why does your rad look so different on the front? Did you add some kind of metal mesh to it? Also, which way do you have your fan going? Blowing THROUGH the rad or PULLING air through it?

I sure hope Lenny comes through with his kit. We all really appreciate you taking the time to make other riders lifes easier and head-ache free! And at almost cost of the parts, I highly respect you.. now just hurry up!

Obviously if the oil is becoming VERY hot it will be hard to keep oil pressure, as the oil will become less viscous. My temp gauge usually shows normal even after prolonged rides (my rad is moved though) and my oil pressure shows low (almost 0 ) with the engine at idle when it is at operating temp. I have checked the oil time and time again, and its always at the perfect amount, so I have a feeling the gauges on these are not that accurate. Once I idle up the engine past 1500 oil temp comes back up to operating range (30-40psi) I really really wish I knew how to post pictures on the board. The simple fix is a rad relocation (as many here have already done) the hard part is creating custom braces to protect the rad incase of a roll-over. Im still in the process of making that. I have mounted my rad about half-way up the rear roll-cage and have not had issues (YET) with the water pump being unable to push fluid through the extra plumbing and up to the higher rad. The rad sits roughly where the drivers head would be for height.