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Does anyone have the manual 4WD system to replace the electric one?

whobbies

By whobbies
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whobbies Contributor

whobbies

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I have now installed 3 electronic 4WD actuators in my T2 Trooper, and am convinced it's not water seepage, they are just junk! I heard there was a manual system being used in the newer models, so I would guess the manufacture agrees. Does anyone know who has this in stock?

Thanks,

Tony

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Quig Community Regular

Quig

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I have now installed 3 electronic 4WD actuators in my T2 Trooper, and am convinced it's not water seepage, they are just junk! I heard there was a manual system being used in the newer models, so I would guess the manufacture agrees. Does anyone know who has this in stock?

Thanks,

Tony

Hi, don't know where to get shifter, but would be interested in buying 1 of your spare junk electric ones.. lmk

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ricksrb Mentor

ricksrb

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I have now installed 3 electronic 4WD actuators in my T2 Trooper, and am convinced it's not water seepage, they are just junk! I heard there was a manual system being used in the newer models, so I would guess the manufacture agrees. Does anyone know who has this in stock?

Thanks,

Tony

whobbies,

I sent you a PM.

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whobbies Contributor

whobbies

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Hi, don't know where to get shifter, but would be interested in buying 1 of your spare junk electric ones.. lmk

All three of the circuit boards burned-up and I threw the first one away. The second I sent to a friend to see if it could be rebuilt, and the third is still on the diff. If I can't get this to work maybe I'll send you the parts for th cost of shipping. I'm working on developing a simple unit for a bolt-on.

Thanks,

Tony C.

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FlyCanadianGuy Apprentice

FlyCanadianGuy

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All three of the circuit boards burned-up and I threw the first one away. The second I sent to a friend to see if it could be rebuilt, and the third is still on the diff. If I can't get this to work maybe I'll send you the parts for th cost of shipping. I'm working on developing a simple unit for a bolt-on.

Thanks,

Tony C.

I just used a standard PTO engagement lever. Came with the cable and mounting bracket for like $20. Problem solved...

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whobbies Contributor

whobbies

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I just used a standard PTO engagement lever. Came with the cable and mounting bracket for like $20. Problem solved...

How did you make the connection to the 3/16" pin and keep it water-tight? Can you send me a picture of the connection to the diff?

Thanks,

Tony C.

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FlyCanadianGuy Apprentice

FlyCanadianGuy

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How did you make the connection to the 3/16" pin and keep it water-tight? Can you send me a picture of the connection to the diff?

Thanks,

Tony C.

Sure give me a week or two as the buggy is on the farm and im flat out at work at the moment but I will eventually get back to you. I know for a fact SOMEWHERE on this forum there was a how-to or explanation where someone has done the same thing. In short all the electrical motor is doing is pulling back a lever to engage the 4wd system. Using the SAME housing (minus the electrical motor that is just bolted to the side of it on a "U" plate you simply need to attach a simple braided cable (like found on a kids bicycle or throttle cable) to manually actuate it. I do hope were thinking about the same thing. :D This is based on my 2006 Trooper T2. If you could supply a pic of yours I wont have to make a run to the farm and can simply edit your pic to show you what I mean.

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whobbies Contributor

whobbies

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Try and contact Bob at No Limits Powersports. There is a retro fit manual 2wd/4wd actuator that will be available for older Trooper models. They might be in the first container that has already landed at No Limits. His email is [email protected]

Cheers Mike.

I think I called yesaterday and they had none comming in, so as hard as this is to believe I purchased another of the electric one's???? I think I will make a simple overload circuit to protect it in the event of a over-limit.

I will take your advice and call agian as I did not speak to this person.

I was also told that there were no diff gears scheduled to come in, and that is hard to believe since it is such a troublesome issue.

Thanks,

Tony C.

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whobbies Contributor

whobbies

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Sure give me a week or two as the buggy is on the farm and im flat out at work at the moment but I will eventually get back to you. I know for a fact SOMEWHERE on this forum there was a how-to or explanation where someone has done the same thing. In short all the electrical motor is doing is pulling back a lever to engage the 4wd system. Using the SAME housing (minus the electrical motor that is just bolted to the side of it on a "U" plate you simply need to attach a simple braided cable (like found on a kids bicycle or throttle cable) to manually actuate it. I do hope were thinking about the same thing. :D This is based on my 2006 Trooper T2. If you could supply a pic of yours I wont have to make a run to the farm and can simply edit your pic to show you what I mean.

Good idea using the existing box, I think I'm OK now and will try to make a gimble and plate that can be water-tight. Unfortunetly it's always easier to pull than push, but I/m sure I can figure something out. Please make no special trips I can get something to work. I did see the one someone made but my concern was keeping water and mud out of the output section, but by using the existing box it should be pretty straight forward.

Thanks,

Tony C.

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G-Pa Apprentice

G-Pa

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Good idea using the existing box, I think I'm OK now and will try to make a gimble and plate that can be water-tight. Unfortunetly it's always easier to pull than push, but I/m sure I can figure something out. Please make no special trips I can get something to work. I did see the one someone made but my concern was keeping water and mud out of the output section, but by using the existing box it should be pretty straight forward.

Thanks,

Tony C.

There is one manual leveron ebay.Maybe person has more.

G-PA

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whobbies Contributor

whobbies

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There is one manual leveron ebay.Maybe person has more.

G-PA

I'll check it out thanks. The lever is the easy part it's the mechanics to actuate the pin that's going to be a challenge. I don't want to just make a bracket because it must be water tight, so by using the existing housing because it is designed with a O-ring seal and adding a inner work mechanism and a cover plate may be the easist fix.

Thanks,

Tony C.

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Lenny Veteran

Lenny

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Good idea using the existing box, I think I'm OK now and will try to make a gimble and plate that can be water-tight. Unfortunetly it's always easier to pull than push, but I/m sure I can figure something out. Please make no special trips I can get something to work. I did see the one someone made but my concern was keeping water and mud out of the output section, but by using the existing box it should be pretty straight forward.

Thanks,

Tony C.

I converted mine to manual a couple of years ago. The pin coming out of the diff is spring loaded to be pushed out. This is the default position which is the front diff being engaged. To disengage the diff, the pin needs to be pushed in. I used the existing back side of the electric unit but just enough of it to bolt to the side of the diff and include the portion that reaches into the hole where the pin comes out of the diff. This has a seal in it and takes care of that problem. Now all that is necessary is to rig up a push pull type control cable to push it in for you. In my case, I'm using a spring to over power the internal spring that is trying to push the pin out. Thus my added spring pushed the spring in so mine would default to disengaged. I then use a over-center type pulling lever to pull a cable which pulls the pin out by compressing the spring I added. This allows the internal spring to then push the pin out, engaging the diff. If your not familuar with an over-center type lever, picture one end of a cable going up from 6:00 on the clock with its sheathing being anchored at 6:00 and allowed to rotate side to side and the other end of the cable being pulled with a spring. Picture a lever that pivots at the center of the clock and sticking up above the 12:00 position on the clock. Now connect the cable at a point that is directly over the 12:00 position of the lever. Now if this lever is turned counter clockwise to say 9:00, this would allow slack in the cable allowing it to be pulled by the spring at the other end. Now by rotating the lever clockwise up to the 12:00 position the cable is pulled back out of the sheathing. If you go past 12:00 to say 1:00, thus over-center, then the cable is allowed to be pulled back by the spring a bit and the lever is held on that side of 12:00 Holding the diff engaged.

Lenny

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whobbies Contributor

whobbies

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I have sent info to a few here regarding the parts on ebay.Only a couple missing to make complete kits but guess no one has been interested.

Rick, I checked it out and maybe I'm not sure what it looks like. I saw the lever and spring, and a plate. Is there the mechanics that bolt to the diff?

Thanks,

Tony C.

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ricksrb Mentor

ricksrb

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My link

I'll check it out thanks. The lever is the easy part it's the mechanics to actuate the pin that's going to be a challenge. I don't want to just make a bracket because it must be water tight, so by using the existing housing because it is designed with a O-ring seal and adding a inner work mechanism and a cover plate may be the easist fix.

Thanks,

Tony C.

here is a photo of what mine looks like.

My link

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whobbies Contributor

whobbies

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Factory,its same as the shaft coming out for your diff lockers.

Yep is see, not mine it is a diferent set-up. Similar except a small pin not the larger shaft. I did order the lever assembly on ebay and will figure something out. Thanks much appreciated.

Tony

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ricksrb Mentor

ricksrb

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Yep is see, not mine it is a diferent set-up. Similar except a small pin not the larger shaft. I did order the lever assembly on ebay and will figure something out. Thanks much appreciated.

Tony

here are the parts i found that match what i have.The cable is the same as what was used on mine also but i think they have it a diff locking cable.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200594894041&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290553805526&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290553805792&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290551297301&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300542785789&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

You will still need the brakett to weld to the frame,look at your diff locking brakett its the same.

My link

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