Does anyone have the manual 4WD system to replace the electric one?

[whobbies]

I have now installed 3 electronic 4WD actuators in my T2 Trooper, and am convinced it's not water seepage, they are just junk! I heard there was a manual system being used in the newer models, so I would guess the manufacture agrees. Does anyone know who has this in stock?

Thanks,

Tony

[Quig]

I have now installed 3 electronic 4WD actuators in my T2 Trooper, and am convinced it's not water seepage, they are just junk! I heard there was a manual system being used in the newer models, so I would guess the manufacture agrees. Does anyone know who has this in stock?

Thanks,

Tony

Hi, don't know where to get shifter, but would be interested in buying 1 of your spare junk electric ones.. lmk

[ricksrb]

I have now installed 3 electronic 4WD actuators in my T2 Trooper, and am convinced it's not water seepage, they are just junk! I heard there was a manual system being used in the newer models, so I would guess the manufacture agrees. Does anyone know who has this in stock?

Thanks,

Tony

whobbies,

I sent you a PM.

[whobbies]

Hi, don't know where to get shifter, but would be interested in buying 1 of your spare junk electric ones.. lmk

All three of the circuit boards burned-up and I threw the first one away. The second I sent to a friend to see if it could be rebuilt, and the third is still on the diff. If I can't get this to work maybe I'll send you the parts for th cost of shipping. I'm working on developing a simple unit for a bolt-on.

Thanks,

Tony C.

[FlyCanadianGuy]

All three of the circuit boards burned-up and I threw the first one away. The second I sent to a friend to see if it could be rebuilt, and the third is still on the diff. If I can't get this to work maybe I'll send you the parts for th cost of shipping. I'm working on developing a simple unit for a bolt-on.

Thanks,

Tony C.

I just used a standard PTO engagement lever. Came with the cable and mounting bracket for like $20. Problem solved...

[whobbies]

I just used a standard PTO engagement lever. Came with the cable and mounting bracket for like $20. Problem solved...

How did you make the connection to the 3/16" pin and keep it water-tight? Can you send me a picture of the connection to the diff?

Thanks,

Tony C.

[FlyCanadianGuy]

How did you make the connection to the 3/16" pin and keep it water-tight? Can you send me a picture of the connection to the diff?

Thanks,

Tony C.

Sure give me a week or two as the buggy is on the farm and im flat out at work at the moment but I will eventually get back to you. I know for a fact SOMEWHERE on this forum there was a how-to or explanation where someone has done the same thing. In short all the electrical motor is doing is pulling back a lever to engage the 4wd system. Using the SAME housing (minus the electrical motor that is just bolted to the side of it on a "U" plate you simply need to attach a simple braided cable (like found on a kids bicycle or throttle cable) to manually actuate it. I do hope were thinking about the same thing. This is based on my 2006 Trooper T2. If you could supply a pic of yours I wont have to make a run to the farm and can simply edit your pic to show you what I mean.

[brostar]

Try and contact Bob at No Limits Powersports. There is a retro fit manual 2wd/4wd actuator that will be available for older Trooper models. They might be in the first container that has already landed at No Limits. His email is [email protected]

Cheers Mike.

[whobbies]

Try and contact Bob at No Limits Powersports. There is a retro fit manual 2wd/4wd actuator that will be available for older Trooper models. They might be in the first container that has already landed at No Limits. His email is [email protected]

Cheers Mike.

I think I called yesaterday and they had none comming in, so as hard as this is to believe I purchased another of the electric one's???? I think I will make a simple overload circuit to protect it in the event of a over-limit.

I will take your advice and call agian as I did not speak to this person.

I was also told that there were no diff gears scheduled to come in, and that is hard to believe since it is such a troublesome issue.

Thanks,

Tony C.

[whobbies]

Sure give me a week or two as the buggy is on the farm and im flat out at work at the moment but I will eventually get back to you. I know for a fact SOMEWHERE on this forum there was a how-to or explanation where someone has done the same thing. In short all the electrical motor is doing is pulling back a lever to engage the 4wd system. Using the SAME housing (minus the electrical motor that is just bolted to the side of it on a "U" plate you simply need to attach a simple braided cable (like found on a kids bicycle or throttle cable) to manually actuate it. I do hope were thinking about the same thing. This is based on my 2006 Trooper T2. If you could supply a pic of yours I wont have to make a run to the farm and can simply edit your pic to show you what I mean.

Good idea using the existing box, I think I'm OK now and will try to make a gimble and plate that can be water-tight. Unfortunetly it's always easier to pull than push, but I/m sure I can figure something out. Please make no special trips I can get something to work. I did see the one someone made but my concern was keeping water and mud out of the output section, but by using the existing box it should be pretty straight forward.

Thanks,

Tony C.

[G-Pa]

Good idea using the existing box, I think I'm OK now and will try to make a gimble and plate that can be water-tight. Unfortunetly it's always easier to pull than push, but I/m sure I can figure something out. Please make no special trips I can get something to work. I did see the one someone made but my concern was keeping water and mud out of the output section, but by using the existing box it should be pretty straight forward.

Thanks,

Tony C.

There is one manual leveron ebay.Maybe person has more.

G-PA

[ricksrb]

There is one manual leveron ebay.Maybe person has more.

G-PA

I have sent info to a few here regarding the parts on ebay.Only a couple missing to make complete kits but guess no one has been interested.

[whobbies]

There is one manual leveron ebay.Maybe person has more.

G-PA

I'll check it out thanks. The lever is the easy part it's the mechanics to actuate the pin that's going to be a challenge. I don't want to just make a bracket because it must be water tight, so by using the existing housing because it is designed with a O-ring seal and adding a inner work mechanism and a cover plate may be the easist fix.

Thanks,

Tony C.

[Guest Lenny]

Good idea using the existing box, I think I'm OK now and will try to make a gimble and plate that can be water-tight. Unfortunetly it's always easier to pull than push, but I/m sure I can figure something out. Please make no special trips I can get something to work. I did see the one someone made but my concern was keeping water and mud out of the output section, but by using the existing box it should be pretty straight forward.

Thanks,

Tony C.

I converted mine to manual a couple of years ago. The pin coming out of the diff is spring loaded to be pushed out. This is the default position which is the front diff being engaged. To disengage the diff, the pin needs to be pushed in. I used the existing back side of the electric unit but just enough of it to bolt to the side of the diff and include the portion that reaches into the hole where the pin comes out of the diff. This has a seal in it and takes care of that problem. Now all that is necessary is to rig up a push pull type control cable to push it in for you. In my case, I'm using a spring to over power the internal spring that is trying to push the pin out. Thus my added spring pushed the spring in so mine would default to disengaged. I then use a over-center type pulling lever to pull a cable which pulls the pin out by compressing the spring I added. This allows the internal spring to then push the pin out, engaging the diff. If your not familuar with an over-center type lever, picture one end of a cable going up from 6:00 on the clock with its sheathing being anchored at 6:00 and allowed to rotate side to side and the other end of the cable being pulled with a spring. Picture a lever that pivots at the center of the clock and sticking up above the 12:00 position on the clock. Now connect the cable at a point that is directly over the 12:00 position of the lever. Now if this lever is turned counter clockwise to say 9:00, this would allow slack in the cable allowing it to be pulled by the spring at the other end. Now by rotating the lever clockwise up to the 12:00 position the cable is pulled back out of the sheathing. If you go past 12:00 to say 1:00, thus over-center, then the cable is allowed to be pulled back by the spring a bit and the lever is held on that side of 12:00 Holding the diff engaged.

Lenny

[whobbies]

I have sent info to a few here regarding the parts on ebay.Only a couple missing to make complete kits but guess no one has been interested.

Rick, I checked it out and maybe I'm not sure what it looks like. I saw the lever and spring, and a plate. Is there the mechanics that bolt to the diff?

Thanks,

Tony C.

[ricksrb]

My link

I'll check it out thanks. The lever is the easy part it's the mechanics to actuate the pin that's going to be a challenge. I don't want to just make a bracket because it must be water tight, so by using the existing housing because it is designed with a O-ring seal and adding a inner work mechanism and a cover plate may be the easist fix.

Thanks,

Tony C.

here is a photo of what mine looks like.

My link

[whobbies]

My link

here is a photo of what mine looks like.

My link

Rick,

I have a 4-5mm shaft sticking out of the diff about 3/4". Yours looks to be about 1/2". Is that factory or is this something you made?

Thanks,

Tony

[ricksrb]

Rick,

I have a 4-5mm shaft sticking out of the diff about 3/4". Yours looks to be about 1/2". Is that factory or is this something you made?

Thanks,

Tony

Factory,its same as the shaft coming out for your diff lockers.

[whobbies]

Factory,its same as the shaft coming out for your diff lockers.

Yep is see, not mine it is a diferent set-up. Similar except a small pin not the larger shaft. I did order the lever assembly on ebay and will figure something out. Thanks much appreciated.

Tony

[ricksrb]

Yep is see, not mine it is a diferent set-up. Similar except a small pin not the larger shaft. I did order the lever assembly on ebay and will figure something out. Thanks much appreciated.

Tony

here are the parts i found that match what i have.The cable is the same as what was used on mine also but i think they have it a diff locking cable.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200594894041&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290553805526&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290553805792&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290551297301&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300542785789&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

You will still need the brakett to weld to the frame,look at your diff locking brakett its the same.

My link

[whobbies]

here are the parts i found that match what i have.The cable is the same as what was used on mine also but i think they have it a diff locking cable.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200594894041&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290553805526&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290553805792&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290551297301&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300542785789&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

You will still need the brakett to weld to the frame,look at your diff locking brakett its the same.

My link

Rick,

Thanks I ordered all the parts.

Tony

[FlyCanadianGuy]

Good luck Tony. This is a great forum for other users to help troubleshoot and "retro-fit". Once I do get to my trooper out for the spring I'll load up a pic for you. What year/model is your machine?

[whobbies]

Good luck Tony. This is a great forum for other users to help troubleshoot and "retro-fit". Once I do get to my trooper out for the spring I'll load up a pic for you. What year/model is your machine?

[/quote

It is a 2009 T-2 4WD. We had a great Saturday with it then yesterday coming home down the dirt road at about 50 MPH all Hell broke loose. The rear drive shaft universal let go at the tranny. The U-joint is scrap and it damaged the oil pan at the lip and broke the seal.

I think I'm going to sut my losses and sell it. It is in great condition outside of that. I would probably take $4000.00 for it as it sits. The engine runs good, I just don't feel up to removing it and making the repairs.

Spread the word if you know anyone that may be interested.

863 699-1231 M-F 9:00 - 5:30 Est.

Thanks,

Tony

[rocmoc]

Sorry to hear Tony. The u--joint driveline was upgraded the first year. They are no good. Joyner at the time did a FREE CV-joint driveline replacement. Would be interested in your Joyner if you were not so far away. I need an engine & rad.

rocmoc n AZ

[whobbies]

Sorry to hear Tony. The u--joint driveline was upgraded the first year. They are no good. Joyner at the time did a FREE CV-joint driveline replacement. Would be interested in your Joyner if you were not so far away. I need an engine & rad.

rocmoc n AZ

Kind of sucks no doubt, that's one thing I did not know about. I'm going to pull the engine and drive train tonite and considering putting a type 1 VW tranny in reversed, and then either a 1600 (worked) type 1, if there is enough room or a 2.0 from something with a tranny adapter. I know I will loose the 4WD, but Hell I'll put something with 100+ HP and some balloon tires in front that will more than make up for it. We don't have any hills here in Florida and it's mostly mud and or sand. Who needs 4WD if the front tires are not on the ground?

I like the chassis and the size of the buggy for trail use, just need to put a reliable engine and power train in it and I think it can be a nice machine. I was blown away when I saw the size of the U-Joints, never paid any attention to them. There are bigger U-joints on my Kawasaki Mule and that only has 22 HP!

If I can come up with an alternative I will contact you make the engine available to you.

[rocmoc]

Kind of sucks no doubt, that's one thing I did not know about. I'm going to pull the engine and drive train tonite and considering putting a type 1 VW tranny in reversed, and then either a 1600 (worked) type 1, if there is enough room or a 2.0 from something with a tranny adapter. I know I will loose the 4WD, but Hell I'll put something with 100+ HP and some balloon tires in front that will more than make up for it. We don't have any hills here in Florida and it's mostly mud and or sand. Who needs 4WD if the front tires are not on the ground?

I like the chassis and the size of the buggy for trail use, just need to put a reliable engine and power train in it and I think it can be a nice machine. I was blown away when I saw the size of the U-Joints, never paid any attention to them. There are bigger U-joints on my Kawasaki Mule and that only has 22 HP!

If I can come up with an alternative I will contact you make the engine available to you.

If you make an engine conversion, please take pics & write updates on this site. I am so interested in upgrading the engine. I don't believe you have to loose 4WD. I am not a tranny guy, have just tore them up, but they should be able to weld the two output shafts together someway. It is done all the time with racecar diffs and can't be that much different in a transaxle. There are clutches that come out & weld the housings/axles or weld everything together.

Just remember, IMHO the weak link of the powertrain is the diffs. They are max'd already with the power we have and more power is going to put them at even more risk. Lenny is trying to find a solution to this problem.

rocmoc n AZ

[whobbies]

If you make an engine conversion, please take pics & write updates on this site. I am so interested in upgrading the engine. I don't believe you have to loose 4WD. I am not a tranny guy, have just tore them up, but they should be able to weld the two output shafts together someway. It is done all the time with racecar diffs and can't be that much different in a transaxle. There are clutches that come out & weld the housings/axles or weld everything together.

Just remember, IMHO the weak link of the powertrain is the diffs. They are max'd already with the power we have and more power is going to put them at even more risk. Lenny is trying to find a solution to this problem.

rocmoc n AZ

Lenny,

If I don't sell it I will. Yes the diffs gotta go, no doubt about it. I am not as up to date with many drive trains of the newer cars, and I do know that they simply turned the engine and tranny side ways in the Joyners and shafted to the diffs. Yes you can cut and sleeve axles and drive shafts, but I'm not sure I want to get that far in depth. I know how strong the type 1 VW bus tranny is, and that would be a straight forward retro, and perfect turned 180 degrees, but limited to rear wheel drive. It may also allow a choice of many other engines to be used as adapters can be aquired and made relitively easy. Iwas looking at that 2.0 used in the Geo Metro, you can get re-builds for about $600.00, and the parts are very low in price, the ECU can be bought brand new for $65.00.

To keep it 4WD I would have to find a quality set of diffs from something on a smaller level, and unfortunetly most small utility vehicles use straight axles front and rear. My sons had me looking at those Honda SUV's, as it has independent front and rear. I really don't want a big project to undertake and there is some interest in purchasing it as-is, and I will probably consider that first.

For you guys out west 2WD is not such a good idea, but for us here in Florida for the most part it's OK. We do have a lot of sugar sand but with enough HP and the right tires you can easily get through it. We have lots of trails and they are considerably harder sand, and the Joyner is the perfect size.

[FlyCanadianGuy]

If you decide to fix it, I do have a spare oil pan I might sell if it gets you back on the trails!

[whobbies]

If you decide to fix it, I do have a spare oil pan I might sell if it gets you back on the trails!

That is appreciated. I think Rick has some interest and I will wait to see what he says. I really like the way these buggies are constucted and wish I had the time and energy to keep on it and make the repairs, but in truth I have so much competition today from Off shore (Asia) to contend with my days are longer than my start up years of 30 years ago, and I find myself doing very little on the weekends. It's terrible because I have the garage I dreamed about as a younger man, full of everything to fabricate almost anything from the ground up, just don't have that drive like I used to. I really hope one day soon that I can down size my company, home, and life demands and regain the things I used to love to do.

Thank you for your offer and if I decide to keep the current engine I will contact you and also get this to Rick.

Thanks,

Tony