Bad bearing on a 2019 T-Boss 550 Golf, how to attack? **Update**
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By rdborra
I had to remove the relay for the dump bed due to it popping the fuse for main key power. I have tried to find a short but nothing seems to out of normal. I also disconnected the dump motor and switch and still pops the fuse. Also, when the machine is warmed up i get about 5 to 10 of work out of before it stalls. Once I can get it to start again I have to use the choke to keep it running.
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By Graffy
Im new to the UTV world but not new to the fabrication world. Me and my friend have been focusing on designing and building a rallye-type setup with a custom chassis and a single seater. With suspension design at a good point, we want to start work on the chassis; however, there is one big hiccup in the way, and that is the powertrain. We've been going back and forth on this for quite some time now and realized that we cant find any great options. We want the engine to be behind the driver and mounted between the seat and the rear axle with a transaxle setup. We aren't going to need any power for the front wheels, as this is an RWD application (Toyota MR2 style setup). It also needs quite a small engine; I would love for it to be 100+ hp and possibly be turbocharged down the line, but power isn't a huge deal right now. Right now its a battle between a UTV engine X trans or a bike engine with a diff.
Although crotch rocket engines are super cool, they aren't built for high-torque applications, and a differential setup for one can range up to $6k, which is pretty ridiculous for our initial budget. (We are not going chain-driven as we have bad experience in that area.).
That's what leads us to UTV x Snowmobile drivetrains. I was initially surprised to find out how much power they have and realized it could be a great option with how they are designed for high torque applications. It is a difficult situation to find a good setup.
The transaxle needs to be either a manual or a sequential setup. And although there are some great engine options, with my limited knowledge in the UTV world, I have yet to find a transaxle that fits or works well with those engines.
So my questions are this: Does anyone know of a good combo or might be able to lead me down a direction? Could it be damaging to an AWD transmission if nothing is connected to the front output shaft and only the rear diff?
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By CRV
Howdy new member here . My hobby's Rabbit dogs , gamefowl . I'm retired from my real job but I stay busy with the hounds and gamefowl . So to help around the farm I ran across an old 2007 CC Big Country 4x2 to haul feed , water , sprayer and my sorry a$$ .It is in pretty good shape , 781 hrs. good plastic , tires, ect. . But as anything outside and 18 years old it needs seats ! The thing I have found wrong mechically the Diff. Lock Acturtor is broken where it mounts to the bracket ( partly why Im here ) . Hoping someone here can help ! Just my wish list but Id like to find a roll cage and a composit/plastic top for it Im thinking I'll need a donor to salvage these things from ( again partly why Im here ) .Is there another brand that uses this same actuator? If anyone reads this and has or knows of any of threse parts PLEASE HOLLER !!
Again Howdy brothers & sisters
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By Roadstar515
Just wondering if mine is the only one that’s seems very loud while driving. It just seems louder that other brands I’m use to. I guess you get what you pay for I’m assuming.
Regards, Rick
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By Alien10
This is the E Brake, the one that is on the center drive shaft rotor below the dump bed. It is NOT related to any of the wheel disc brakes.
A few months after purchasing my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun) new, the E brake stopped working. Thought it had got water or oil on it as it gradually went from good holding to poor holding to literally NO holding. Been lazy using a piece of 4x4 to keep from rolling, but that's a pain. So, into the barn I went with work light to see what the heck is wrong. E brake pedal worked, but hit a hard stop and felt like the cable was froze up from rust but that was not the case. As it turns out the E brake is actuated by some kind of weird actuator lever/cam arrangement based upon the actuator lever being moved about 15 degrees from its fully released position. That makes the adjustment pretty critical with such little movement. Bolt "C" in the pic below is the adjustment bolt, held in place by lock nut "B". Working from below, here is what I did.
Removed the skid plate below the E brake. 6 bolts and washers. Next, looked at the brake pads which still had a good amount of pad left on them. Looked to be a little less than 1/8" each. Verified that the cable from the E brake pedal "A" actuated the E brake arm "D". Cable "A" pulls and released lever "D" in the direction of the curved arrow. Applied E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way up with no bare cable "A" showing. Released E brake and checked the actuator arm, it was all the way down with bare cable "A" showing as in the pic below. That spring pulls the lever to fully released position. Note: I disconnected the release spring from at the lever with needle nosed pliers to make working with the adjustment easier to do without that pressure on the lever. With E brake released, loosened lock nut "B" and backed it off the lever about 1/8" or so. Tightened adjustment bolt "C" by hand just until it stopped. Retightened lock nut "B". E brake now holds securely on my hillside driveway, and releases completely. Reinstalled skid plate. Hope this might be of some help to someone as none of this is in the owner's manual or in diagrams.
up.
Released brake and rechecked the actuator arm, it was all the way down.
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