Charging Issue with 2021 Axis 700 4x4
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By BWF
I have a 2011 or so Landmaster LM200. I cannot get it to start. I turn the key and nothing happens. The brake switch seems to be working, the ignition switch works. The Coil is new the Voltage Regulator is new and the starter relay is new.
I can connect the terminals on the starter relay and it starts right up and runs fine. I just can't get it to start by turning the key.
I am having a bit of trouble bleeding the brakes, not much fluid comes out at the calipers when I am pumping the brakes, though that an air bubble near the brake switch might make it not sense that the brake pedal is depressed.
I am at a loss, please help!
Brad
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By Jeff freeman
I have a Coleman 550. Was having problems to start with where it would start and then shut off after a couple tries. It would take off and be good. It then got to a point where it would not start at all. I replaced the fuel injection twice the second time I replaced it I noticed a mouse or something had chewed one of the wires that connect the electrical to the fuel injector. . So two-part question first does anybody have a part number for that wire harness? Second, any other ideas after I fix the wire harness permanently on what could keep it from starting I have gas flow up to the fuel injector.
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By Terry B
We purchased this UTV less than 60 days ago and now I am having issues with drained battery. Used UTV for about an hour then stopped and when I went to start back up my battery was to low to start it. Jumped it and it started right up and ran fine back home. Tested charging and it’s not charging while running. Can it be anything other than the stater??? Can I look for something that I can fix Quik or does it have to go to the authorized service center to stay under warranty? It will take some time to get it in and out of service
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By Andy Dickerson
So heard the grinding noise on the drive shaft a couple of times while going down a steep hill. Never heard this before going down the same hill. I already knew about the splines wearing out because of improper heat treating so I went through the process of removing the shaft to just replace it. A lot things need to be removed to get that thing out. Once I had it remove I didn't see any wear on the splines but what I did notice was the rear spline to rear differential had ZERO grease i.e. it was completely dry and I could see rust that had developed on the shaft splines and inside the differential mating surface. The front of the shaft where it connects to the transmission was well greased. Both ends of the shafts have springs in them with the rear spring being multiple times heavier which would force the shaft to mate securely into the transmission. Unless of course the rear is rusted and starts sticking which is what I think was happening. If the rear splines begin to rust and it starts sticking and the spring doesn't have the enough force to overcome the sticking because of the rust, the shaft will not get fully seated into the transmission. If this starts happening frequently it will eventually eat up the front splines on the transmission side shaft splines which is exactly what I see in the pictures of stripped splines.
I don't know why the rear spline shaft wasn't greased but this would cause it to eventually stick. I have been concerned about this ever since reading about it so as soon as I heard the grinding I stopped driving it. Thankfully there wasn't any wear. I'm wondering if this was deliberate or just laziness by the assemblers. It makes no sense not to grease it. The repair manual that I purchased from motorcycle doctor specifies to grease the splines. Both shaft ends have a rubber seal meaning there's is supposed to be grease in there.
I used to have a gold wing and there is a special grease required for the rear drive differential which happens to be a spline shaft setup. They use a lithium grease with moly. I had purchased a couple of tube of Magnalube-gx that I never used as I sold the bike. The Hisun manual recommends using a lithium grease which doesn't have the additives of a lithium moly grease that is specialized for spline shafts. Per magnalube website. "Magnalube-GX, however, uses a proprietary matrix of advanced polymers, molybdenum disulfide, and PTFE, so it stays where you put it without getting pressed out, while also maintaining a low frictional drag."
Anyway, long story short everything is back together and no noise. I would recommend those that haven't checked the grease in the splines on both ends to do so before the shaft get destroyed. Especially If you have heard grinding. Those rubber boots can be pulled back without having to take to many parts off. If you've been hearing grinding then there is probably significant wear already and time to replace the shaft and grease it properly.
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By kmiller7351
What electrical connection are missing in battery comp? it seems I am missing plug in connections and I am not sure what and how it is supposed to look like. If I can get an image and guidance would be great.
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