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rocmoc

Brakes!

By rocmoc, in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

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rocmoc    12

rocmoc
Posted

The pads are easy to change, did the fronts today and will finish the rears tomorrow.

But here is the deal. Since I have one of the first T2s, I have the tiny little early rotors. Joyner gave me a upgrade kit over a year ago but I have not had a problem with the existing brakes. Thought I would do the upgrade to the front brakes. The problem is to change the rotor to the new larger rotor in the kit, you have to remove the hub nut and remove the hub. The rotor sets in behind the hub and there is NO WAY the hub will pass thu the hole in the center of the rotor.

The question,

Has anyone removed the hub nut, I tried but it on there super tight? Has anyone pulled the hub? Does it take a puller to remove the hub? Would like to know before I get tough with nut & hub. At any rate, I changed out the pads. The fronts were only half worn out so differently more rear brake bias than front.

Thanks,

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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Lenny    20

Lenny
Posted

I've had my rears apart and I assume they are pretty much the same. You'll have to remove the nut. my rear nuts were on really hard. I used a 3/4"drive socket with braker bar. Put a bar across two lug bolts and the other end on the floor to keep thing from turning. Then step up onto the braker bar and jump your weight on it. Check the thread direction to be sure your going the right way. I assume they gave you adapters to move the calipers out farther. With 15 inch rims, eventually I'm going to make bigger rotors then the stock bigger ones. Still have to get into the brakes real hard to hold on steep stuff.

Lenny

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rocmoc    12

rocmoc
Posted

OK, I finished the rear brakes today. Did not go as smooth as the fronts. 3 of the 4 mounting caliper brackets / pad guides would not clear the caliper when compress allowing room to remove & install the pads. I was able to squeeze enough room by forcing the bracket allowing the old pads to be removed. Then I was able to remove the bracket which is also the guide post for the pads. With a little grinding of metal on the bracket and a small amount of filing of the caliper, the bracket passed over the caliper allowing full access for installing the new pads.

Second the piston on the emergency brake calipers would not compress allowing room for the pads. Compressing the piston, I bleed some brake fluid and the piston compressed. Still have to figure out why the fluid would not push back into the emergency master cylinder, maybe a plugged vent hole on the master.

With the new pads & calipers installed, GREAT!

TIP: The rear pads wear the most on the inside pad. Watch the inside pads as they will fail first.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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Lenny    20

Lenny
Posted
OK, I finished the rear brakes today. Did not go as smooth as the fronts. 3 of the 4 mounting caliper brackets / pad guides would not clear the caliper when compress allowing room to remove & install the pads. I was able to squeeze enough room by forcing the bracket allowing the old pads to be removed. Then I was able to remove the bracket which is also the guide post for the pads. With a little grinding of metal on the bracket and a small amount of filing of the caliper, the bracket passed over the caliper allowing full access for installing the new pads.

Second the piston on the emergency brake calipers would not compress allowing room for the pads. Compressing the piston, I bleed some brake fluid and the piston compressed. Still have to figure out why the fluid would not push back into the emergency master cylinder, maybe a plugged vent hole on the master.

With the new pads & calipers installed, GREAT!

TIP: The rear pads wear the most on the inside pad. Watch the inside pads as they will fail first.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

I can't remember for sure now but If I recall correctly, I had the same problem and also ground mine some but then I found that, I think this is what it was, one of the two post unscrews to provide access. I do remember saying to myself that I guess I jumped the gun a bit.

Lenny

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ksimpsy    0

ksimpsy
Posted

the trick to it is to pull out the small rubber plug on the back side of the caliper and there is a allen screw in the hole. you remove the screw and this allows the frame to move enough to get the pads out. sorry I cant remember how to tell you any better it has been a while since i did the brakes but if you take that screw out you wont have any trouble. maybe it is directly behind a post, when you do it watch the rubber dust seals to make sure they don't pop off.

Kevin

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rocmoc    12

rocmoc
Posted

I saw and removed the Allen screw. That wasn't the problem. The bracket would not compress as it would not clear the caliper at the center of the bracket. I believe the bracket bends slightly over time from the original installation at the factory. The minor adjustment I made should take care of the problem permanently. Thanks for your feedback as others may not see the Allen screw and I failed to mention it.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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