Quantcast
Jump to content

2020 Massimo Buck 400 - Won't start


Go to solution Solved by Jon Michel,

Recommended Posts

I don't know if this applies to your model, but on mine (2019 T-boss 410), the starter meshes with a big gear that is a one way clutch sort of thing. That big gear will turn freely one way, the other way is what starts the engine. If you can get a finger or a screwdriver in there and push on the gear both ways. If it moves only one way, the clutch is good (at least I think it is). Try pushing it both ways. It should lock up in one direction, but freewheel the other way.

Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Alex changed the title to 2020 Massimo Buck 400 - Won't start
On 1/27/2024 at 7:10 PM, Dave N. said:

2020 Massimo Buck 400 - Won't start. Can hear the starter spinning, but motor never turns. Relay? Starter? Worked fine one day and not the next. Thanks for any help you can provide.

Hey Dave 

I had that issue with mine, I brought it in for warranty and it was a one way bearing on the starter drive. That’s what they told me. Hope it helps. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In a regular car, this would be diagnosed as a malfunctioning Bendix gear.  I assume this starter is the same. First, always make sure you have a fully charged battery before assuming this is the problem. The bendix gear is on the front of the starter and when the starter starts running,, centrifugal force makes the gear go forward and the starter then engages a large gear on the motor.   The motor then turns and starts. So it sounds as the starter is running, but the bendix is not being activated. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

32 minutes ago, KentC said:

In a regular car, this would be diagnosed as a malfunctioning Bendix gear.  I assume this starter is the same. First, always make sure you have a fully charged battery before assuming this is the problem. The bendix gear is on the front of the starter and when the starter starts running,, centrifugal force makes the gear go forward and the starter then engages a large gear on the motor.   The motor then turns and starts. So it sounds as the starter is running, but the bendix is not being activated. 

The starter in my Massimo T-boss has no Bendix drive. The starter gear stays meshed with the crank gear. There's a one way clutch of sorts on the crank gear. The starter switch engages the starter which will spin the crank gear only one way due to the clutch. The crank gear will freewheel in the opposite direction. Sorta hard to understand (at least for me). Even my riding mower has a Bendix drive.

I don't know if any other UTV manufacturers make theirs the same way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, KentC said:

Really weird. Glad you are aware of this peculiarity. 

Yeah, found out while I was trying to hunt down a starting issue with mine. Not sure why they designed it that way, but it's Chinese design, so who knows? You would think that the starter would fail quickly when it's spinning with the engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, I pulled the starter off and went through the motion of starting the Buck. The gear coming out of the starter turns and seems fine. Stuck my finger through the hole and tried to move the gear that the starter meshes to, but it did not seem to turn. Put the starter back in and everything is the same. Is this an electrical driven clutch or mechanical? How hard is it to take apart? Would like to fix myself, but maybe should take it to a shop????   (That is, if I can find a shop to work on it). Thanks again for all of your comments.

image.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The gear marked #3 in the diagram should turn freely in one direction, but not in the other direction. If it won't turn in either direction, you've found the problem. There's a one way clutch or bearing that will allow the gear #3 to spin freely in one direction, but the opposite direction is what starts the engine. The starter gear stays meshed with gear #3.

Does the starter spin at all? It may be spinning in the wrong direction. Ask me how I know 😡.

If you can get something into the hole that houses the gear #3 besides your finger, such as a screwdriver, try to spin that gear using that. If you still can't get the gear to spin in either direction, you'll most likely have to replace the one way bearing.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, from your comments above, this is what I have found so far:

The gear marked #3 in the diagram should turn freely in one direction, but not in the other direction. If it won't turn in either direction, you've found the problem. There's a one way clutch or bearing that will allow the gear #3 to spin freely in one direction, but the opposite direction is what starts the engine. The starter gear stays meshed with gear #3. - So, I cannot see the gear #3 as the hole is only a little bigger than my thumb and that's where the gear on the starter motor goes in. The gear labelled #7 (Idler Gear) will turn in both directions if I put a screwdriver through the hole and turn it. 

Does the starter spin at all? It may be spinning in the wrong direction. Ask me how I know 😡Yes, with the starter motor removed from the gear box, the gear moves in both directions by hand, and when energized by the keyswitch, moves what appears to be clockwise when looking into the end of it.  So, how do you know if it is spinning the wrong direction?

If you can get something into the hole that houses the gear #3 besides your finger, such as a screwdriver, try to spin that gear using that. If you still can't get the gear to spin in either direction, you'll most likely have to replace the one way bearing. The gear labelled #7 (Idler Gear) will turn in both directions if I put a screwdriver through the hole and turn it. 

  • Thoughts on the issue?
  • How big of job is it to take things apart to see/replace the gears and/or the clutch?
  • Should I take it in somewhere to be fixed? (That is, if I can find anyone to work on it!!) 😠

Again, I truly thank you for your guidance here. Much appreciated.

image.thumb.png.df8e5bc7380aa34fb54874b2d4d2c092.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/2/2024 at 8:42 PM, doncaron said:

Hey Dave 

I had that issue with mine, I brought it in for warranty and it was a one way bearing on the starter drive. That’s what they told me. Hope it helps. 

Hey Dave 

when they fixed mine they only changed the bearing or clutch. 
something else to watch for with these bikes is the timing. The tensioner seems to not work properly. I don’t have a permanent fix yet, but the I’ve got it down to about 1hr to do it now and I keep all the tools in the bike just in case it happens in the bush. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Dave N. said:

So, from your comments above, this is what I have found so far:

The gear marked #3 in the diagram should turn freely in one direction, but not in the other direction. If it won't turn in either direction, you've found the problem. There's a one way clutch or bearing that will allow the gear #3 to spin freely in one direction, but the opposite direction is what starts the engine. The starter gear stays meshed with gear #3. - So, I cannot see the gear #3 as the hole is only a little bigger than my thumb and that's where the gear on the starter motor goes in. The gear labelled #7 (Idler Gear) will turn in both directions if I put a screwdriver through the hole and turn it. 

Does the starter spin at all? It may be spinning in the wrong direction. Ask me how I know 😡Yes, with the starter motor removed from the gear box, the gear moves in both directions by hand, and when energized by the keyswitch, moves what appears to be clockwise when looking into the end of it.  So, how do you know if it is spinning the wrong direction?

If you can get something into the hole that houses the gear #3 besides your finger, such as a screwdriver, try to spin that gear using that. If you still can't get the gear to spin in either direction, you'll most likely have to replace the one way bearing. The gear labelled #7 (Idler Gear) will turn in both directions if I put a screwdriver through the hole and turn it. 

  • Thoughts on the issue?
  • How big of job is it to take things apart to see/replace the gears and/or the clutch?
  • Should I take it in somewhere to be fixed? (That is, if I can find anyone to work on it!!) 😠

Again, I truly thank you for your guidance here. Much appreciated.

image.thumb.png.df8e5bc7380aa34fb54874b2d4d2c092.png

I checked the parts diagram for my T-boss, and the parts are the same, just numbered differently. Assuming that the starter meshes with the idler gear, which meshes with the crank gear, you should only be able to spin the idler gear one way.

If I am correct in my assumption, your starter clutch (#2) is bad. I don't know the level of difficulty in replacing the starter clutch, so I can't help you there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/17/2024 at 5:14 PM, T-boss 410 said:

I checked the parts diagram for my T-boss, and the parts are the same, just numbered differently. Assuming that the starter meshes with the idler gear, which meshes with the crank gear, you should only be able to spin the idler gear one way.

If I am correct in my assumption, your starter clutch (#2) is bad. I don't know the level of difficulty in replacing the starter clutch, so I can't help you there.

I believe that you are correct. And the starter is not hard but for the gearbox it might be different. But with some mechanical knowledge and this forum I’m confident that it shouldn’t be too bad. I suggest that you take pictures before you start taking it apart it helps. Lol 

good luck and let me know how it goes  

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Solution

Same problem with mine. Ended up being starter clutch.  Did mine in frame. Had to remove a few things but not too bad of job.  Pulley puller is ideal.  Got clutch on ebay $27.  Look for :   Starter Clutch component 23706 For Linhai 260 300 400 ATV UTV Scooter BigHorn

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

So, sorry, I forgot to come back and post. The problem wound up being the starter clutch. Got it replaced and running fine. This is the 2nd starter clutch since I've owned it. Only 60 miles on it. Probably going to sell it. Thank you ALL for your guidance!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By donwan
      I have a part that fell over to the exhaust and burned the harness up. I can't figure out what it is. Does anyone know what the start relay looks like? The part I can't figure out has 4 wires, a red power, a green and brown wire, a black and unsure what the 4th color was. Anyone have a clue?
    • By buckrub
      Hey guys! Newbie here. I'm an old man who's better with plowing a mule (4-legged kind) than these newfangled beasts. I, and a friend of mine, just bought new Coleman sxs and are having to finish the assembly. I've been reading on this site and I'm falling on the mercy of you experts. The only way I'm an expert is that an "ex" is a has been, and a spurt is a drip under pressure. LOL First off, the 2 buggies have no ignition switches. They seem to mount on the dash, not the opening in the steering wheel shaft cover, so we ordered new ones that are supposed to fit. They are 8 inches long, and have a 4-wired white plugin which is slightly rectangled when looking at the end of the plug. The trouble is there's nothing to plug into. There is a three-wire grey plug close enough to reach the four-wire plug, but of course, they are not compatible. 
      Secondly, the blinker, light, ect. unit on steering wheel just spins around when touched. I see no way in heaven or earth to secure it. I've looked at a diagram on the Powersports site, but can't detect how it mounted. Fellows I'd be so grateful for any help with this. Me and my mule will even plow your garden for free, for your help. LOL 
       
    • By KMart
      I have a Massimo 400 Buck that overheats and the antifreeze blows out of the motor everywhere! I don’t have to be doing anything but just driving through the field.  It only has 26 miles on it.  I don’t think the fan is turning to cool the motor.  Any ideas how to fix this?
    • By Michael Wood
      I have a 2018 Massimo Buck 400 with 278 miles. 
      Having issues with my brakes. Took the buggy hunting and when I let my foot off the gas pedal it pulls without pressing on the brake. I looked and the pads on all 4 wheels are all toast. The E-Brake hasn’t been on since I have had it. I am guessing it may be a master cylinder issue because all 4 pads are gone. They all seem to have worn evenly that’s why I think the master cylinder. Just got the machine used from a older couple and they said it sat for some time in there pole barn. Possibly the brake lines? Calipers? I took one brake apart and when I depressed the caliper it didn’t stay. Any help is muck appreciated. 
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...