Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

(posted a similar question to the Hisun folks) Looked at a lot of UTVs lately. Couple Questions about Massimo. Some people say they are just cheap with no customer service. Other people seem to have no problems with them.

Any opinions on Massimo durability?

Heard parts might hard to get. Is that true?

What models are the best?

If you had one and didn't like it what do you recommend? 

Posted

I haven't had any bad experiences with Massimo, but I haven't needed any repairs yet, either. I did need a new roof, as the original one blew off while it was being shipped. I bought mine through an eBay auction, so it was not covered by any warranty. They shipped out a new one without hesitation. I was expecting to have to pay, so this was a great thing for me. I've also been able to chat with a technician who has helped me with some questions. All around, it's been a good experience for me. However, there's some here who have not had such a good experience. I figure you will hear from them soon.

Posted

Bought mine from Massimo in Garland TX and had it shipped to Fla. Even with shipping , much cheaper than Tractor supply for the same unit but with different badging, Havn't had a lick of trouble so far but it doesn't get heavy use. 

Posted

Happy for you few with g[d experiences. With Massimo.  I was not one of them. Mine broke on its first day in its first mine.Took 3 days of calling just to talk to rep.they said they stopped using Hisun engines due to mass problems and therefore didn't warranty..One day old? Only one shop in the whole state will work on them. CASH up front because MSsimo. Stiffed them on several claims. Leaking head gasket. 6 more times inn shop in 6 months..cash only..$3K..My advice....buy something else

Posted

I have a 2023 T Boss 550 that I bought new 2.5 months ago. Im still breaking it in and will only use it as a tool on my land.

Good things about it: lots of features for the money. So far it starts and runs well, although it just developed a weird smell that I need to figure out. It feels solid. Overall not a bad machine if it continues to run. Time will tell.

Not so good things: it's no hot rod. Tops out at 40. It's a noisy machine, not just the engine, but lots of squeaks and rattles. Hoping lube and tighted nuts will help. It does need to broken in correctly. They run really rough at first, but the throttle response is improving with every use. You have to let warm up. The neutral switch is spotty, but hear that is a fairly simple adjustment. It's not an easy machine to work on. Everything is jammed in.

I bought it because of a tight budget. If I had the cash, I would have gotten a Ranger, but then, my brother has nothing but issues with his. 

I'd recommend a Home Pioneer. The base 520 is only 500 more than the t boss and you know that thing will run forever.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

While I can fully understand Joe B's unhappy experience and his recommendation to go elsewhere, I believe that his unit is/was a HiSun. Those units have been shown to be very suspect, and Massimo was way undercapitalized to support the dealer network and their customers.

On the other hand, my 2020 T-Boss 500-F (with the steel box w/dropdown sides) is a Linhai chassis. Except for a few design quibbles (front hood access, oil change mess, inadequate hitch mount and excessive reach with the steel box, overly bright display at night, etc), I have found that the Linhai version to be a solid, reliable, entry-level SXS. I've had the steering wheel loosen up (6 Phillips head screws) and the windscreen brackets needed realignment. I also replaced the 300 CCA U1 Lead acid battery that was OEM, with a 350 CCA AGM U1 battery. That solved the occasional cold start stall and kick back against the starter. The OEM flooded lead acid battery is just too small. Works OK in my lawnmower, though. 😒

I use mine for general banging around my land that has somewhat rough terrain, and I am also equipping as a fast-response vehicle to fight remote wildland fires.

Bottom line is that I wouldn't ever consider buying a used 2019 or earlier Massimo or any other brand that uses the HiSun chassis of any vintage.

🏁

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Yes! The U1 battery format is one of the shortsighted design issues in the 550 series. It is completely unsuitable for a UTV, but that is the hand we are dealt.I assume that you use the same battery in your 410.

Just buy the biggest and best unit that will fit in the tray. I bought an AGM 350 CCA battery from Amazon. (ASIN: B0CKSKHDM6)

There may be others that fit in that space, but my issue was resolved using the Sealed AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) construction rather than the flooded lead acid design.

And NEVER buy a N-EVERSTART battery from the Big Wally if you want to get home!

🏁

Edited by BlueFlag
another thought
  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 4/26/2024 at 8:36 PM, BlueFlag said:

Yes! The U1 battery format is one of the shortsighted design issues in the 550 series. It is completely unsuitable for a UTV, but that is the hand we are dealt.I assume that you use the same battery in your 410.

Just buy the biggest and best unit that will fit in the tray. I bought an AGM 350 CCA battery from Amazon. (ASIN: B0CKSKHDM6)

There may be others that fit in that space, but my issue was resolved using the Sealed AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) construction rather than the flooded lead acid design.

And NEVER buy a N-EVERSTART battery from the Big Wally if you want to get home!

🏁

Agree on N Everstart battery..junk...I Have been using CHROME BATTERIES  for years in all my ATV UTVs.  Excellent battery. 2 yr warrantees

Posted
On 4/26/2024 at 9:36 PM, BlueFlag said:

Yes! The U1 battery format is one of the shortsighted design issues in the 550 series. It is completely unsuitable for a UTV, but that is the hand we are dealt.I assume that you use the same battery in your 410.

Just buy the biggest and best unit that will fit in the tray. I bought an AGM 350 CCA battery from Amazon. (ASIN: B0CKSKHDM6)

There may be others that fit in that space, but my issue was resolved using the Sealed AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) construction rather than the flooded lead acid design.

And NEVER buy a N-EVERSTART battery from the Big Wally if you want to get home!

🏁

I have a 350 CCA lead acid battery in my 410. I still have the occasional slow start. Does the AGM battery work better?

Posted

Mine all  start instantly with the AGM s.. even hot. seem to last longer too.  I just changed a Chrome  in my Honda, it was 7 years old and still worked but I figured it was due.. Dont want to get stranded 4 miles in the woods.😁

Posted

Usually I will have to hit the key a few times to get it to turn over. The battery is only a year old. Maybe it needs a recharge? I used the UTV yesterday to clean up a bunch of branches and downed trees. It was idling most of the time, but it didn't stall or overheat. Ran like a champ. Used the winch several times, too.

On the topic of the winch, the switch reads "in" but it's pushing the steel rope out. Did they wire it wrong? I wonder if I could just reverse the wires on the switch.

Posted
40 minutes ago, T-boss 410 said:

Usually I will have to hit the key a few times to get it to turn over. The battery is only a year old. Maybe it needs a recharge? I used the UTV yesterday to clean up a bunch of branches and downed trees. It was idling most of the time, but it didn't stall or overheat. Ran like a champ. Used the winch several times, too.

My advice is to get rid of that battery right now. Don't care how old it is or isn't. You are not getting the cranking amperage needed and are not doing the starter, keyswitch or starter drive any favors. Don't get another N-Everstart regular battery. SLA-AGM (Sealed Lead-Acid, Absorbent Glass Mat) batteries are the only way to go, unless you want to pay an exorbitant amount for a gel cell unit.  Consign your existing battery to the lawnmower where it belongs. Also, beware of some of the AGM battery ratings as the Chinese manufacturers tend to be "overly optimistic". Interstate make a decent one if you want to shop locally.

The above is assuming that the battery terminals and grounding bolts are clean, bright, and not frayed. Check this FIRST!

🏁

Posted
42 minutes ago, T-boss 410 said:

On the topic of the winch, the switch reads "in" but it's pushing the steel rope out. Did they wire it wrong? I wonder if I could just reverse the wires on the switch.

Simple check before you dig into the switch is to look at the winch motor terminals to see if the +/- cables match the motor markings.

Posted
2 hours ago, BlueFlag said:

Simple check before you dig into the switch is to look at the winch motor terminals to see if the +/- cables match the motor markings.

I will do that.

Can you please advise what makes the difference between the flooded lead acid battery and the AGM battery? Like, if the 2 batteries are both rated at 350 CCAs, does the AGM battery actually turn the engine over better than the flooded lead acid battery? Not doubting you, just would like to learn more about the kinds of batteries.

Thanks 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Rschrem
      Hi, my 2010 Hisun will crannk but comes to a stop and only clicks.  It has new battery and solinoid. Battery connections all seem good. Any ideas what the problem is? 
    • By barticus73
      I am looking to buy a small UTV to do work around my property and priced a brand new Massimo T-Boss 560 through Lowes @ $10,500 out the door or a Dealer sold CFMOTO Uforce 600 at $11,500 out the door.    Are there any glaring reasons to go with the Uforce 600 at an extra $1000?  Is one model more reliable than the other?  Any input greatly appreciated.
       
      Thank you,
       
      Jerry
    • By Tim n Deb
      Riding out today it acted like it ran out of gas,  stalled and died and would not start.   Towed back to house,  New  plug added this past month,  plenty of oil, getting plenty of gas, battery cranks good.   Trys to kick in and starts but doesnt.   Two days prior while sitting at a idle it died.  Added gas and it started did my ranch chores with it.  But just now it stalled out cranks but will not start.   Tried to find if fault codes came up on the clock like manual says but not sure I am doing that right.  Any and all help apprecated.  Thank you
    • By Chile
      2018 Massimo MSU 700 EFI. I realize that this engine is essential the same as in all of the HISUN based Yamaha clones out there. I am in the process of performing a top end diagnosis/rebuild. I have an AMAZON top end rebuild kit on order in anticipation of this activity. 
      Question 1:  When exploring the myriad of top end rebuild kits on the market for these units there are some cylinder assemblies that have "686 cm3" badging next to the cam cain tensioner boss. Others compatible with the unit do not have this badging. The existing cylinder assy does not have the 686 badging. I am assuming that this simply verifies that the cylinder assy is for a 686 cm3 engine which of course the stock 700 series HISUN engines are. Am I missing something here or is this just a manufacturer artifact? With or without the badging the application listings all indicate compatibility with the MSU 700 series engines.
      Question 2:  I have reviewed at minimum a dozen videos associated with this rebuild. To date I have not found one that deals with piston/cylinder clearance and/or ring gap verification. The advertised specifications for these various "top end rebuild kits" all indicate: Cylnider bore = 102mm and piston diameter=101.5mm. The math yields a .5mm (as in 1/2 mm) difference. That seems to be a very large piston/cylinder clearance.  I realize I am referencing advertised specs rather than emperically measured values but the numbers have gotten my attention.  I have referenced the FSM and found it to be somewhat confusing in this regard. Hopefully the experts on this forum can enlighten me as to where my observations are faulty here.
      Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated .
      Thank you all in advance,
      Chile
    • By monkthumper
      Fuel pump is good (i hotwired it) swapped relay with known good one no help. I'm leanin towards ECU but cannot find wiring diagram online. Dont know how fuel pump relay gets its signal, all fuses good, any help? 
×
×
  • Create New...