2012 Coleman 500 UT plug keeps fouling.
-
Popular Now
-
-
Similar Topics
-
By MilSurpYinzer
Anyone decent with electrical work that knows a good tutorial on how to make my running lights switch off all together but also turn back on when I need too? I'd assume that my lights are hard wired to the battery or the fuse panel.
Vehicle is a Kawasaki Krx 1000
I'm looking to ad IR driving lights for night vision and short of just putting black tape over the lights I feel this would be a more efficient option and it would be cooler.
-
By jugliner
I have a fuel injected UT400 that will start and idle, but surges and sputters at higher speed. It has been sitting for 2-3 months and was fine when parked in garage. I assumed it was a fuel/air problem and pulled the throttle body and cleaned it up. I've ended up replacing the injector, IAC valve, MAF Temp Pressure Sensor, and fuel filter. I've also checked the spark plug, Still surging. I reset the ECU after every component swap.
I plan to pull the throttle body again and look evrything over for any visible leaks, etc.
Any suggestions would be appreciated on next steps. The problem developing after sitting makes me think it should be something simple, but I'm stumped. BTW the fuel was fresh and treated with Stabil.
Thanks.
-
By kmiller7351
Trying to get running a 550 Colman running but I think head gasket went bad. Do i just replace with new gasket, clean up and replace or is there more to it?
-
By Jamesshoop1
This was happening to me regularly with the original battery pack, I would drive a few yards and power cut to the motor, no error code, dash works, lights etc, just no drive. Brake lights not on so I don’t think it’s a switch thing. Sometimes it would go back to normal after a few day sitting in the barn. I ended up changing to lithium ion battery 100amp 48v and the problem completely went away for two months so I figured it was something worth the old battteries. Now it’s doing the same thing again, I’ve removed every main electrical connection, cleaned it good, and put it back together. Battery is at100 percent and good voltage. What is interesting is it doesn’t matter how much power I’m drawing, if I’m just creeping along in low or flooring it in high it stops after the same amount of time, about 7 seconds. If I let go of the acceleration right before the 7 seconds I can keep driving like that indefinitely but obviously that’s pretty annoying. Or if I switch immediately to reverse I can back up and go back to F without cycling the key. Has anyone else run into this? It really seems like a safety switch issue to me but unsure what else to check.
-
By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
-
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.