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rocmoc

CV boot for driveline?

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Anybody have a source for a split boot or even a regular boot for the CV joint on the drive line near the rear diff on the Trooper? I am talking about the most rear of the boots on the driveline. I have been to two local part store and no help. I am going into Tucson tomorrow to the biggest Tucson Bike/ATV/UTV dealer. The driveline boot is smaller than the CV boots on the axles.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

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CV Boot Kit There appears to be a difference between inner and outer boots, I used a NAPA CVB6862340 for my outer rear, fit good but not tightly on the CV end, I held it on with Tyraps

Autozone part # 03606. Comes with bands and grease for $11.99, quick/split boot. K2181 95 Geo Metro $15.99

Napa 686-2181 CV Boot from a 95 Geo Metro.

Norrec Industries then Application, then UTV, then look up joyner, they have them all NEW http://www.norrecind.com/Category/2lvl1lstbxA.taf?_function=list&_start=1&cat=1394

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Anybody have a source for a split boot or even a regular boot for the CV joint on the drive line near the rear diff on the Trooper? I am talking about the most rear of the boots on the driveline. I have been to two local part store and no help. I am going into Tucson tomorrow to the biggest Tucson Bike/ATV/UTV dealer. The driveline boot is smaller than the CV boots on the axles.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Auto Zone here carries 2 different split universal boots. I think either one should work.

Lenny

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The boot I used for the Renegade was a BT-2075. It was not the exact same as the one that I took off, but it fit quite well.

It is the same driveline just shorter than the Trooper.

A.

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Lenny & Plumber, the CV on the driveline is smaller in dia. than the axle CV. The ones you both Id will not work on the driveline. Anylizer, I will try that one tomorrow. Will post what I find.

Push comes to shove, I will use a section of old motorcycle tube. I have been going to Mexico for tooo long!

Thanks everyone,

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

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Lenny & Plumber, the CV on the driveline is smaller in dia. than the axle CV. The ones you both Id will not work on the driveline. Anylizer, I will try that one tomorrow. Will post what I find.

Push comes to shove, I will use a section of old motorcycle tube. I have been going to Mexico for tooo long!

Thanks everyone,

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

I replaced the one on my rear drive shaft just before Farmington. I didn't use the split boot but a non-split universal one from AutoZone that fit real good. Just cut ot to the shoulder size you need. Problem is that you have to pull the shaft out of the CV assembly. Not an easy task but doable. I've done it a couple of times now but you first go through a period where you think it will never come out. But it does.

Lenny

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So Len are you saying to get a CV boot and cut the big off until you get down to the size of the CV joint? Would be better than an old motorcycle tube, LOL!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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So Len are you saying to get a CV boot and cut the big off until you get down to the size of the CV joint? Would be better than an old motorcycle tube, LOL!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Both ends are stepped to fit various sizes. The split ones are too. You just cut to the correct step, but you know that. I said it for others. The motorcycle tube is fine especially because you can get it over the CV joint without taking it apart. Good old time farm ingenunity.

Lenny

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I found what looks like an exact fit. Polaris CV Boot Kit # 2203438, (PR-8061).

Now Len, how does the CV Joint come apart on the dirveline? This one is nothing like the ones I use to work on on my race car.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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I found what looks like an exact fit. Polaris CV Boot Kit # 2203438, (PR-8061).

Now Len, how does the CV Joint come apart on the dirveline? This one is nothing like the ones I use to work on on my race car.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Ok, first have a stiff drink, take some Prozac and any other anti-depressents you can get your hands on and begin. Actually it may not be too bad. I can't remember exactly the configuration of the drive shaft but the Axel is simular. The CV bells on each end of the axel are different. On the diff side, you can slide the CV spider and its 6 balls out of the bell after you remove the retaining ring just inside of the bell opening. Feel in the end of the bell at one of the slots that the balls slide in. About 1/8" in you wil feel an approx. 1/16" dia. wire retaining ring that goes around the inside of the bell opening which keeps the Cv spider and it's balls from comming out. I always eliminate it because on my axels it's always out of it's grove anyway becaus of my 14-1/2" of suspension. Using a small screw driver, get under the wire and snap it out of there. Now the axel with the spider and balls will pull out of the bell. If you have this setup on one end, all you have to do is remove the circlip holding the axel in ball spider, slide the axel out and you can then get at your boot. The axel on the other end is different. Here the axel is held into the spider the same but you can't remove the spider with its balls from the bell. The spider will only come out of the bell after the axel is removed from the spider. If it's like this, it takes far more effort. The snap ring on the axel spline that holds it into the spider is designed to compress down tighter onto the axel until it will slide through the spider internal spleen, snap ring and all. The problem arises because the internal grove in the spider is not tappered to assist the snap ring in compressing down. As a result, it requires enough pull out force to actually cause the snapring groves in both the male and female fitted together spleens to act like a shear and cut a spleen on the snapring before it will come out as the snapring doesn't compress like it should. With the he snapring being hard, ti's tough. There two ways to get it out. One I've used sucessfully is to slide back the axels boot , open my vise to just a little larger then the axel diameter, and pull down real hard and quick on the axel from under the vise so the bell catches the top of the vise with a sudden shock. If it's enough, and the snap ring isn't too stubburn, it will come out. If this doesn't work, then you have to use a hydraulic press and go in from the external end of the bell with a bar that is small enough to slide through the ID of the spider spleen with some extra clearance, I used a long socket, and pressed it through from that end. However there is a pressed in steel plug keeping dirt out of the spleen. You have to punch out this round disk first. punch it into the hole farther by hitting it in it's center with a large straight screwdriver. Now using the same screwdriver shove it to one side so you can get at an edge and get it to fold in half so you can get it out of the hole with a needle nose before doing the pressing. This part isn't too bad. It took pumping real hard on a 12 ton jack to pop the snapring and axel through. Then on reassembly, you have to straighten the steel plug and reinsert it with some sealant before proceeding. Actually if you have a way to hold the bell and pull on the axel with enough force, +- 12 tons, that would do it too. Good luck. There is a good chance you won't have to do it the hard way. I had to replace a bell and was forced to do it.

Wow, I'm out of breath. Being attention deficit, when someone says turn left, I don't always see the obvious but instead my mind clicks through all the possibilities. Great for product development but sometimes sloppy for real life. As a result I have a tendenacy to be over explicit on instructions. I guess I assume everyone else is going to scatter like I do.

Lenny

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OK Len. No ring, no clip. I believe the bell is two pieces with the retaining ring/piece screwed into the main body of the bell. I can see a seam but can't tell if it is a production line or two pieces. I can see inside more than nearly 1/2" and no retaining clip.

Jarrad, Do you know if this thing is two pieces screwed together?

If no other direction, I will take a couple of huge pipe wrenchs to it tomorrow, can't hurt the thing!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

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OK Len. No ring, no clip. I believe the bell is two pieces with the retaining ring/piece screwed into the main body of the bell. I can see a seam but can't tell if it is a production line or two pieces. I can see inside more than nearly 1/2" and no retaining clip.

Jarrad, Do you know if this thing is two pieces screwed together?

If no other direction, I will take a couple of huge pipe wrenchs to it tomorrow, can't hurt the thing!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Remember the retaining wire is only on the differential side of the axel. The driveshaft may not use one. The reason the retaining wire is there is to prevent the CV from coming apart when the axel swings through it suspension swing. The diff side of the axel CV is thus allowed to slide in and out in the bell. The other side can not slide in and out but is fixed more like a U-joint would be. The drive shaft on the other hand does not need to slide in and out so it may not have the clip. However if it can slide anyway, it probably does. Can't remember rather both driveshaft ends are fixed or not. If they are then you will probably have to jar or press the shaft out of the CV spider as I described. I don't think the is 2 pieces. To completely disassemble a fixed CV joint on the Trooper, the shaft has to first be removed then you can rotate the spider, although tricky, to a point where the balls can be removed and then rotate the spider 90 degrees and lift it straight out.

Lenny

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I had my axle out the the wheel side CV just the other day, came out going through some whoops, There is a circlip on the end of the axle that pulls through the splines on the CV, there is also a bigger circlip on the bell holding the CV ring in, after the Bell circlip is out, you turn the ring and remove the balls and then the CV ring and you have all into it's individual pieces. If I remember correctly, the way I get my axles off is to pry bar them off the Diff, and then, with the swing arm disconnected from the shock so it can drop way down, I just push all together and the yank on the axle to get it to pop loose.

Also, if memory serves, the wheel CV Bell is part of the shaft that the Wheel Hub bolts to. Look at page 182 of the T2-T4 manual that can be down loaded from Parts & Pieces Thread.

As I see it, just a good hard pull and the Diff Bell should get the axle loose from either the diff bell or the wheel bell. Then put the the boot or boots on, add the grease and reassemble. Should be easier at home than out in the field. :lol:

One thing I think makes mine come apart is too much travel in my shocks because I can see where the swing arm has rubbed on the axle and that may have put some more stress on the works.

Kinarfi

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Thanks guys. It is the pressed end. I think I will take the boot loose on the other end (the end with the clip), remove the CV from that end, remove the CV end off the axle, slide the boot off, slide the new boot on for the other end, slide the boot back on for the removal-able end and button everything up. I not pressing the other end apart. Turns out the Boot is the biggest pain in this whole repair. For those who were not at Farmington, I rip the rear diff off the mounts. I have replaced the mounts, lowered the rear diff for more swing arm action and now just dealing with repairing the driveline boot that was tore off in the drive back to camp. Yup we strapped the diff in place with tie-downs and drove back about 5-10 miles. Jarrad (snowman) & local dealer Daven were willing to help me weld back in place there but I wanted the upgrade the supports and lower the diff since it was tore apart. So I broke out the Dirtbike , Honda CRF450, for the rest of the time we were in Farmington.

Thanks again for confirming what I have to do.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

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This site has a video mid-page of how to change a boot. After watching the video there will be more video choices at the bottom of the video screen. Pretty Good!

Arctic Cat ATV CV Joints. Best Prices on CV Joints, Boots, and Repair <b style="color:black;background-color:#ff9999">Kits</b>.

Update: Holy Cr*p batman. I watched one of the other videos at the bottom of the screen and this old shade tree mechanic shows how to put/replace the boot without taking the CV apart. Sooooo Cooool. This will make it super easy and save a ton of work. Check it out, he is the old guy wearing the blue coveralls.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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This site has a video mid-page of how to change a boot. After watching the video there will be more video choices at the bottom of the video screen. Pretty Good!

Arctic Cat ATV CV Joints. Best Prices on CV Joints, Boots, and Repair <b style="color:black;background-color:#ff9999">Kits</b>.

Update: Holy Cr*p batman. I watched one of the other videos at the bottom of the screen and this old shade tree mechanic shows how to put/replace the boot without taking the CV apart. Sooooo Cooool. This will make it super easy and save a ton of work. Check it out, he is the old guy wearing the blue coveralls.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

If you try that really neat looking method, let us know how it worked, if the boot stud up to that much stretching, please & thanks.

Kinarfi

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The CV boot is a PERFECT fit.

Kinarfi, please add to our parts list as the replacement CV boot for the driveline.

Boot is of heavier construction than the original and would not stretch. So, I took a brass hammer and smacked the pressed end several times around the CV joint where it is affixed to the axle, the pressure C clip released and out came the axle. Cleaned, slipped the boot on, put the axle back in the CV joint, smacked the end with the brass and the axle slipped/clipped back in place. Would be easier if you had the tool/punch that the guy in the first video had. Filled the CV with grease (came in boot kit), filled the boot with grease and slipped the boot over the bell end of CV. It is all together but have to head to town to purchase a pair of CV clip pliers. All that is left is the actual diff mount brackets (will BOLT to welded braces), paint and put it back together permanently.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

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The CV boot is a PERFECT fit.

Kinarfi, please add to our parts list as the replacement CV boot for the driveline.

Boot is of heavier construction than the original and would not stretch. So, I took a brass hammer and smacked the pressed end several times around the CV joint where it is affixed to the axle, the pressure C clip released and out came the axle. Cleaned, slipped the boot on, put the axle back in the CV joint, smacked the end with the brass and the axle slipped/clipped back in place. Would be easier if you had the tool/punch that the guy in the first video had. Filled the CV with grease (came in boot kit), filled the boot with grease and slipped the boot over the bell end of CV. It is all together but have to head to town to purchase a pair of CV clip pliers. All that is left is the actual diff mount brackets (will BOLT to welded braces), paint and put it back together permanently.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

Is this what you meant, Polaris CV Boot Kit # 2203438, (PR-8061) or was there something you wanted added? Think I'll add those video links too.

Jeff

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This site has a video mid-page of how to change a boot. After watching the video there will be more video choices at the bottom of the video screen. Pretty Good!

Arctic Cat ATV CV Joints. Best Prices on CV Joints, Boots, and Repair <b style="color:black;background-color:#ff9999">Kits</b>.

Update: Holy Cr*p batman. I watched one of the other videos at the bottom of the screen and this old shade tree mechanic shows how to put/replace the boot without taking the CV apart. Sooooo Cooool. This will make it super easy and save a ton of work. Check it out, he is the old guy wearing the blue coveralls.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

I couldn't find the video of putting on the boot without disassembly. All I saw was a long parts list. But it does make me think of a time when building machinery, I had to stretch a real stiff high pressure seal over a shaft. I machined a long tampered cone so when I greased it up I could get it to make the stretch. For a boot, I wouldn't think it would stretch enough but if it did, you could use something like a transmission funnel as a ramp. Wow, if it didn't tear the boot, I'd be amazed.

Lenny

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Is this what you meant, Polaris CV Boot Kit # 2203438, (PR-8061) or was there something you wanted added? Think I'll add those video links too.

Jeff

You have got it, Jeff!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

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Boot is on and driveline installed.

The hardest job turned out to be putting the stupid stainless steel retaining bands on the boot. I bought a tool to tighten the bands which turned out to be junk. I used a good pair of side-cutters. Also bought grade 8 bolts for the mounts today & rubber washers to place between the mounts & braces. Will finish tomorrow.

Waiting for Daytona to start - rain delay!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

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Boot is on and driveline installed.

The hardest job turned out to be putting the stupid stainless steel retaining bands on the boot. I bought a tool to tighten the bands which turned out to be junk. I used a good pair of side-cutters. Also bought grade 8 bolts for the mounts today & rubber washers to place between the mounts & braces. Will finish tomorrow.

Waiting for Daytona to start - rain delay!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

So you stretched the boot way past what any resonable engineer would consider and no tears and it still came back down to shaft size? Don't try that on a joyner boot, there rubber shows strain withour any stress. The stainless bands are a bit of a pain. I've done several and it gets easier after some expierence. Seems like some bailing wire wrapped around 2-3 times, twisted, cut and folded flush would work just fine and be a lot easier. Did you tip your diff up in front a bit to average the angle between both CVs?

Lenny

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Yes I am angling the diff up. I took the fixed end of the CV apart. The boot was too tough & small to stretch over the bell. I sure thought about using wire!

rocmoc n AZ/Baja.

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