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Zerk Fittings

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Where are the zerk fittings on a T4?

They don't have many. There are some on the front ball joints but they need to be replaced with SAE greese fittings as the stock ones are chinese and I don't think anything fits them. There is also a greese fitting on the front drive shaft carrier bearing which is a bi-------------h to get at. Greese fittings should be added to at least the main pivot points of the rear swing arms. This is easy to do, just drill while on the buggy and tap 1/4-28 or 1/8" pipe and screw in the fittings. Fittings should be available at any auto parts store.

Lenny

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I installed a 90 degree bend and new fitting on the drive shaft carrier bearing, no problem now! Can be purchased at any parts store.

rocmoc n AZ/Baja

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The fittings on the steering ball joints work fine with my hand pump grease gun, there is also one on the bottom of the steering rack, I also pulled the top A arm ball joints, ground the welds that hadn't broke and screwed the top off, drilled, tap, zerked, screwed back on and welded so I could grease them also. Also, since the rubber is no good on the steering ball joint, 2274262840104282158sivWwQ_th.jpg I suggest Tie Rod Dust Boot, Checker Auto#13566 as shown in Parts and Pieces thread.

Kinarfi

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  • Similar Topics

    • By Kinarfi
      Recently helped 66fastcarss with his Trooper and I drilled and tapped the tops of the ball joints for zerks, on mine I did the same and welded the tops back on. When I greased them, the grease would ooze out the top. On 66fastcarss', I used JB Weld and made sure I used plenty so the threads were well sealed, after it cured, I applied grease and none of it oozed out the top, I think this may be the way to go. Did NOT add any welding as I thought the heat would destroy the epoxy.
      Kinarfi
    • By Lenny
      The front ball joints on the front axel hubs, as you know, do not allow greesing. This can easily be corrected by adding greese fittings. See picture. The hex cap on each of the 4 joints is spot welded on. It threads into the ball body holding the ball and stem into place. It's a pretty sloppy joint to begin with but still can use regular greesing until you get around to replacing them with better ones. Using a small grinder with a cutoff wheel works good to cut the spots loose. You could saw them also I suspose. Once the welds are cut, there may be a bit of weld left holding the cap from turning. If it's not too much, you would rather not grind too deep, you can get the cap to turn using a center punch or kind of a dull chisel to hammer at the corner of the hex. You may need to grind a little more if it stays tight. Be careful not to get too aggrssive and knock the corners off. Once loose, use a visegrip to get ahold of it to remove it. Install greese fitting and reassemble and finally respot the hex in place. I would think that if you don't have a welder, you could clean it up good and use locktite or possibly wire it but I haven't tried these aproaches.
      http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/24019...104282158dpzOsj
      Lenny


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